Dies after warmed up

Big thanks to the both of you for the information and guidance in this new adventure. In regards to the dyna route Lou your explanation of using the one for a 4cylinder was along the lines of what I assumed would need to be done. You also further answered a question I had about the stock Ignitor module being if I’d need to use it still or not. That’ll be last resort since many other twins have gone this route with success. Like I mentioned above somewhere, I wanna find an alternate more cost effective solution for the twin owners that want an easy R&R part as if it was OEM. Oh and if the dyna route did come into play, I just so happen to have the green 5ohm dyna coil waiting.
I totally agree in choosing a pick up that has the pole vertical like the oem piece as opposed to a round one even though the round ones appear more when searching.
F64, my next thought for small wire was gonna be a visit to guitar center. Lol. I retract my last statement towards a dyna pickup and nominate winding up my own coil as the last resort. I think that’s too delicate of a part for “me” to experiment with? But I do, more often than not, take the path of more resistance(no pun intended) Is there even a gauge reference to how fine that wire is? Wait..if I read some of those links, I’m sure I’ll get the answer.
I won’t be heading into the shop today, a day off is much needed, so instead, I’ll be playing cod warzone..lol and I’m ok with that. I’ll try the tapping of the pole with both pickups. Also, I’ve been using the kickstart to check for spark to keep the battery and starter preserved. Btw, battery Vs @13.1 all off, 12.8 when cranking.
Louis, if needed, I can measure the ID of the rotor area. I don’t wanna just throw out a number right now. 4” .....lol maybe.
My phone is my brain. Or at least my memory stick for my brain. Courtesy from all the info I get from the internet. It’s horribly great! Hahaha:p

That wire may be somewhere around 42 gauge.
If you take yours apart, put a micrometer on the wire to get the diameter.

F64 wrote: That wire may be somewhere around 42 gauge.
If you take yours apart, put a micrometer on the wire to get the diameter.

Wholly shit that’s tiny?!hahaha..(glad I’ve never heard that from someone:P)All jokes aside, Ill have to use my buddies micrometer from a “real machine shop” all I’ve got is a digi caliper in mm and decimals. I doubt it’ll pick up that small of a gauge.

I believe the rotor is the same as the inline fours, but just flipped upside down (since it rotates the opposite direction).

I just finished making a new test rig for the pickups and rotor.

I found out it may be possible to use just the coil from a Dodge pickup and glue it onto the frame of a Kz pickup. It looks to fit pretty nicely. It would just need some epoxy to hold it onto the Kz pickup's skeleton.

It looks like it may also be possible to use the Dodge pickup by bolting it to the existing plate, but it will be a touch too tall. All you'd have to do is drill out two rivets and make a new mounting L bracket and brass rivet it or brass screw it back on.

I'll try to get some photos going.

A little info if it hasn't been covered. The pickup coil looks to be the same as the left side of the 4s, I check after work today.
As for the rotor it will not interchange with the 4s, timing is wrong. Cam is the same but indexed in a different position.


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Thanks for chimin in Nebs. If the fours pickup works, I’ve got no problem getting it mounted securely and timed right to my rotor, assuming I can use my rotor? Do any of the larger KZ twins have electronic ignition? Or are they in the same boat also if their pickup goes?

The 750 twin is the same ignition as the 440. They are in the same boat.

As long as the rotor profile is the same, it can be re-indexed to any position, and can even be flipped over for use in the opposite direction. Some rotor slugs have an arrow cast into both sides, which would indicate that the same rotor is used in CW and CCW motors, ie. fours and twins. You just need a small press to press the iron slug off the rotor spindle. Don't use a vice, I think the iron slug may be pretty fragile. I flip them over and re-index them all the time for various testing. This is actually easier than filing the timing plate holes into slots. Obviously, since you already have a 440 rotor, you don't need to do that.

So really the twin ignitions are functionally the same as the inline fours with the major difference being one circuit instead of two. The major physical difference is the magnet is inside the pickup on the twins. (The signal is also slightly different since there is no magnetic crosstalk between two pickups, because there is only one pickup.)

Here's some raster bitmap art.

I didn't want to hijack this thread too much so I started this new thread regarding using a Mopar pickup to run a Kz.
www.kzrider.com/forum/4-electrical/61350...al-advance-ignitions

Feel free to post in that thread regarding your bike if you want. I just thought you'd like to have your-bike-specific stuff here, in one place, and not get it cluttered with experiments etc. that may not be related.

loudhvx wrote: I didn't want to hijack this thread too much so I started this new thread regarding using a Mopar pickup to run a Kz.
www.kzrider.com/forum/4-electrical/61350...al-advance-ignitions

Feel free to post in that thread regarding your bike if you want. I just thought you'd like to have your-bike-specific stuff here, in one place, and not get it cluttered with experiments etc. that may not be related.

No worries. Hell if it’s in regards to a potential pulse coil replacement, experiments, test subjects and source info it’s all good. Sooner or later there’s gonna be another literal kz rider that’s gonna run into the same problem and potentially come across this very informational starting thread, and ultimately end up in the one you started, open a new tab, place an order, come back to both threads just to make sure they’re not just dreaming, close their browser and then sit back and wait for whatever it is we all created..finally. To me if they found the 100% answer to their pulse coil woes in less than 20mins, hell less than 3 threads on a single forum? That’s progress..hahahaha! I sure as hell havent found a 100% solid solution for a replacement in the past 5 days, 30+ forums (both automotive and motorcycle) countless thread skimming, image searches etc etc etc. It’s like I was a detective looking for a lead. Lol.
Either way...much appreciation for all that chimes in with ideas/potential pulse coil candidates.

Nebr_Rex wrote: A little info if it hasn't been covered. The pickup coil looks to be the same as the left side of the 4s, I check after work today.
As for the rotor it will not interchange with the 4s, timing is wrong. Cam is the same but indexed in a different position.


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The difference between the KZ440 pickup coil vs. the KZ550/750.


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wrote:

Are the valve clearances in spec? If the valves are tight they will hang open when hot.

forgive me if this sounds silly, but what symptoms are involved when valve lash is set wrong and then valves hang open when hot?
curious as ever, i'd safely assume intake popping and backfiring