Dies after warmed up

Aside from the obvious of getting this new pickup coil mounted evenly and square to the advancer, I notice that the none of the holes on the stock one were slotted to adjust the air gap, so I’ll definitely incorporate that into the new one and then a thought came across my mind of the ohm rating with the new coil? Does the new one need to be within the same 360-540 range scale in order for it to do what’s expected from it?

It doesn't have to be exactly in that range, but will most likely be somewhere in there or close. This is because most engines run in similar RPM ranges. Way outside would be bad.

Pickups of that type are just a coil. A coil has resistance and inductance. Resistance and inductance combine to affect the overall impedance of the coil. That impedance of the coil will affect the output level and shape of the signal when the signal is applied to a load (the igniter). The overall impedance depends on the frequency (RPM in this case) . But luckily for us, pickups of that type are usually used in a similar manner. That is, igniters are designed to minimize the current in the signal while detecting the voltage of the signal. So even if the impedance from one pickup to the next varies quite a bit, the signal size and shape only varies a smaller amount. That's why you can have such a wide range of resistances to the factory pickups and still have the ignitions run basically the same.

So if the impedance is way off, it will affect things like dwell and timing, and possibly startup. The startup problem can happen if the signal is too weak while cranking. Dwell can be measured with a relatively inexpensive tester. Timing should be checked with a timing light to make sure you are getting the right amount of advance at higher RPM.

Even with the factory pickups, there can be a slight timing delay near redline due to pickup/igniter impedance mismatch. This doesn't really show up as a problem because the motor will appear to run normal and we don't spend much time near redline anyway.

So overall, if the bike starts right up even when the starter is cranking slowly, and a timing light shows proper advance near redline, you probably don't have to worry about dwell that much. It's probably close enough to spec. If the bike stutters and refuses to increase RPM beyond some lower value, then you will want to look at dwell.

Thanks for the info and actually you just reminded me about timing. I know the advancer has timing marks on its base plate.
I’m gonna set motor to tdc. *side note,,,may not be necessary and the way I can do it might be a laugh. I’ve got well a kept snapon digi torque wrench that the degree feature is awesome when called for on head, crank, con rods and other such bolts. Maybe you know where I’m goin with this now? (Ok..laughs can commence.. )
I didn’t even notice if the advancer was adjustable for timing really? Bad man..
Well, should be getting the sensor today sometime. It’s 12:18pst atm. Soon as it comes in, I’m going on strike at work to see what needs to be done.

Coil finally arrived and thankfully it was super simple to get it mounted exactly where the stock one sat. The wire colors were different though with a blue and green. So I just connected blue w/blue and green with white. Got a known working inline spark plug firing tester on right cylinder plug to see if I’ll get spark? All is on power wise, but no spark when cranking. Flipped the wires, same result. I’ve got an air gap of .483mm on my feeler gauge with the rotor lobe sitting just past the pickup. Oh and the Ohms on the new coil were 380.
I’ve got a bunch of pics I’ll post in a few, I just gotta take care of some shop stuff for the moment.
Here’s what it looks like atm.

Do you get any AC voltage from the disconnected sensor when the engine is cranked?

Haven’t checked but definitely can/will. Just so I’m understanding this correctly cause it’s chaos at my shop right now with compression and leak down #’s with a knock code. Anyways..Obviously set my mm to AC, while cranking the motor I’m gonna be probing the pickup side or the igniter side..or check both? I’m gonna do the jumper wire as Loudhvx suggested as well in the beginning of this thread. Also my battery still has good voltage also.

Actually, the document I'm looking at says DC voltage. This is the pickup coil output on a gpz550.

Disconnect the pickup coil. You'll just be measuring the pickup coil.
Ground the negative pickup coil wire.
Negative lead on the grounded pickup wire.
Positive lead on the other pickup wire.
Crank the engine
Note DC voltage on meter


At cranking he, Lou Dudzik, is getting around .4v peak @ 300rpm.
The higher the rpm the higher the voltage.
I'll include the documents.

www.geocities.ws/loudgpz/GPZstockIgnitionNotes.txt
www.geocities.ws/loudgpz/GPZreluctorWave.gif
www.geocities.ws/loudgpz/index-2.html#home

Ok before I do that, does the retrofit look to be in the right location? I slotted the holes on the pickup to allow in/out adjustment for the rotor.

Just thought of something that may or may not be an issue. Does rotor rotation affect the signal of the pick up? Looking straight at the rotor on a 440, it rotates CC, is it possible for the pu not to “pick up” the peak on the rotor when it passes and then if that’s the case, swapping the 2 wires should correct that right?

Well after more reading, the 2 coils I ordered first being one for a Honda ATC200(aka BigRed) this pickup ohm’d to 40?? I don’t even know how I got the reading I got before? So that’s a no go. Then the 2nd pickup still in transit is from a Polaris Magnum 500 and according to a repair manual, that should ohm to 185. Fuck me! So that’s 2 to scratch off the list of potential pickups. The hunt continues.

Info concerning your polarity question.
www.megamanual.com/ms2/pickups.htm

F64 wrote: Info concerning your polarity question.
www.megamanual.com/ms2/pickups.htm

Thanks for the link. That answered my question perfectly and it’s a good read. I’m in the process of going through boxes of leftover customer parts, electronic drawers and nooks&crannies in search of Crank sensors right now..lol