First KZ1000 let's make it run!

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationThese are a good price

Mikaw you the man, thanks a bunch. In catching up on posts...the right side stock killswitch is still there but it's obviously buggered up cuz it doesn't really wanna move off run. Start button does nothing. I'm not seeing a starter solenoid unless is under the starter cover, I haven't pulled that off to look yet. There's nothing from the battery cept positive and negative. That "starter cable" was supposed to go to battery and the non terminal side goes to the lower engine case im guessing ground. I'm touching that cable to + to start it with the toggle switch on. Also there are 4 ports coming off the lower carb bowl area with 4 drain hoses. Those other 2 pictured earlier are more on the upper part of the carb. I've got plenty to investigate on my next 2 days off. Keep the feedback coming you guys rock.

The two vent tubes are supposed to go above the airbox. Open dirt or critters can get in. If the solenoid is missing you can get one used or buy one at a auto parts store. It would help to know exactly what model this bike is. Looks like a KZP front end but the carbs and head look like a Z1/KZ. Cobbled together parts makes it harder to work on and find parts.
Steve

Bbd1983 wrote: ..the right side stock killswitch is still there but it's obviously buggered up cuz it doesn't really wanna move off run. Start button does nothing. I'm not seeing a starter solenoid unless is under the starter cover. Keep the feedback coming you guys rock.

Go back and read TexasKZ's post on the wiring. He hit it spot on and kept it simple.

Bbd1983 wrote: Also there are 4 ports coming off the lower carb bowl area with 4 drain hoses. Those other 2 pictured earlier are more on the upper part of the carb. Keep the feedback coming you guys rock.

The 4 hoses on the bottom of the bowls are overflow. If you get fuel coming out of one of them its likely you have a float stuck. Just route them over the rear upper engine bolt and down pointing them toward the ground.

I agree with the general consensus here and stay focused on the engine and drive line, If it turns out ok then you can easily fix the electrical. Get the engine running first to make sure what you have is worth putting a few more dollars toward.

Tank was drained and waiting for me today, I put a gallon of non ethanol premium in with a touch of seafoam. Shortened one fuel line as it was too long and I didn't like the flow. Did 2 inline fuel filters, put everything back together and went for a spin, it ran great. Smoked some and backfired some but overall it ran really good, no dying or having problems getting restarted. Even fired one kick with the kicker. Gonna do an oil change and top fluids and I ordered carb gaskets. Main thing that's bothering me now is the starter. I looked at Orielly for a cheap universal solenoid and wanna get that wired up with a pushbutton start for now so I don't have to take seat off every time to ground that starter cable to the batt. I could kick it but when I first tried it didn't wanna fire after a few kicks but did after a few tries on the electric start. I can research how to do that unless you guys have advice or a SIMPLE diagram. At some point I can trace the wiring from the factory button but just need a solution for now and it's pretty hard to trace through the electrical tape. I did pay for the bike today so it's mine and now starts the process of improvements! Oh one fitting of the petcock just pulls out, it doesn't leak but it bugs me, advice on that?

You definitely want to fix that petcock. I had the same problem and I fixed it with permanent loctite, the green color. I don't remember the number I used (there are many). It looks like 290 is gasoline resistant, but there may be better ones.

www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/product/t...ers/loctite_290.html

Yes sir that's exactly what I did. Bike sat for a few hours while I ran around, came back, started one kick! Super stoked.

Maybe loctite 620 would be better. It's intended for cylindrical parts, where 290 is for threads.

www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/product/r...nds/loctite_620.html

Sorry for the crud drawing, I’m not a tech guy. This will get you a quick push button start system. Very easy to steal. Hide the button!

Noticed this toggle switch, is that how power to the coils is shut down killing the engine?