1980 750H bare bones for mattylight

Thank you for your quick reply martin_csr, I've purchased a KZ750 '79 and ALL of the wires have been removed and I'm trying to start it before I take it completely apart, so I know what I'm working with. The previous owner did however give me all the wire bundles so I am slowly putting the pieces back together. Would you have any recommendations on soldering over crimping? I'm thinking of just soldering everything with a shrink wrap over it to seal it.

The '79 does have a starter solenoid but I'm missing a voltage regulator/rectifier and the turn signal relay. Purchasing that soon along with a new instrument cluster and starter switch.

Thanks for all your help!

In my opinion, solder only has limited use on a harness. Connections at switch contacts are often soldered by the factory, like on the back of the ignition switch. Almost everything else is crimped. Crimping lasts a lot longer. Solder erodes the wire, and the heat weakens the copper. Solder gets wicked into the conductor and creates a rigid wire such that the strands are prone to break off from vibration or motion.

The only other place I use solder is if i have to join wires together in a harness like at a t intersection . The way to do it is to run the intersecting wire parallel to the other wires for a bit then bend the wire away at a point where there is no solder. Then I wrap the solder joint so it is supported by the rest of the harness against any movement. That way any movement only affects a clean stretch of wire. Stranded wire can take a lot of movement without breaking.

Page 15 has a 78 diagram with a starter solenoid (and starter).
www.kzrider.com/forum/4-electrical/17274...ght?start=280#579749

I do stock type crimps using open barrel terminals & an open barrel crimper >> the crimps are very strong. I already had a HF ratcheting crimper, but the dies were wrong, so I got an open barrel die set from amazon.com. Some components, such as the ignition switch, have soldered connections inside, which sometimes need to be redone. Z1Enterprises.com & CycleTerminal.com have terminals, plastic connectors & crimp tools. Z1Ent also has colored wire. ps: loudhvx knows more about this stuff than I do. I'm kind of a rank amateur in the electricals. hee.

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Mattylight Barebones Bare Bones
1980 Kawasaki Kz750E1 for Trytobuildkzcafe
Kz750E Kz750 E1 Kz 750 E 750E1 750E

Even though this is posted a while back, I'd like to ask one question:

If have been trying to figuring out what the B/W wire from the igniter is for. I guessed it has something to do with a safety feature, as it is connected (with diodes) to the neutral, side stand and lockout switch.

Just wiring this to the ground B/Y is a solution to bypass this?

LeFunzig wrote: Even though this is posted a while back, I'd like to ask one question:

If have been trying to figuring out what the B/W wire from the igniter is for. I guessed it has something to do with a safety feature, as it is connected (with diodes) to the neutral, side stand and lockout switch.

Just wiring this to the ground B/Y is a solution to bypass this?

Yes, if you are wiring a later ignition like from a Zx550 or Zx750, the black/white (or brown/white) wire on pin 3 is the interlock (safety) wire. Just ground it to run.

This diagram is for the 550:

Mattylight Barebones Bare Bones
1981 Kawasaki Kz750H2 Ltd. for Galaxian
Kz750H Kz750 H2 Kz 750 H 750H2 750H

Mattylight Barebones Bare Bones
1978 Kawasaki Kz200A1 for HouseLudwig
Kz200A Kz200 A1 Kz 200 A 200A1 200A

Batteryless operation requires a switch to turn off the lights in order to start.

Hey Loudhvx, you are awesome posting these bare bones diagrams! I'm in the last stages of my 440 project. I was wondering if the diagram you made for I_Tig_in_piece will work for me. I'm using a new, universal ignition switch (4 wire), start button, and turn signal switch instead of the OE parts.

That diagram is for a 1980 Kz440A1. Is that what you have? If so, then it should work. If yours is a later model, you will need the wiring for the electronic ignition.

This is where I'm actually having the problem. The engine is an 82 but the diagram I found that matches correctly is for an A2. Is the 82 LTD considered an 82 A2?

Is the motorcycle an 82 or just the engine? Is this a chain drive or Ltd Belt?