1980 750H bare bones for mattylight

MDSBLCK wrote: Oh, was just thinking - will the odometer work as-is or would that need some sort of wiring? I took apart the gauges to look at the wiring and currently it looks like a light green and a red wire goes to my odometer, is that right?

Also, where would be the best place for a light circuit fuse on this diagram, if I were to decide to do that?

Thanks again. Really appreciate all the help here!

According to the factory diagram, that light green wire and red wire, in the speedo, are for the self cancelling turn signal unit. They detect distance traveled to automatically cancel the turn signal. (It must be some combination of distance and speed, actually, since turning from a stop, you'd want to cancel it after a short distance, and on the highway, for a lane change, you'd want to cancel after a much longer distance.) You can just leave them unconnected.

Here is an optional fuse for the lighting. I think 10 amps should do it.
The horn is not fused since it might pop a 10 A fuse.
You don't want the brake lights fused, for safety reasons.



EDIT 1/15/2019:
Mattylight Barebones Bare Bones Wiring Diagram
1982 Kawasaki Kz1000P for MDSBLCK
Kz1000 P Kz 1000

As always, many thanks, sir!

1981 Kawasaki Kz550C2 Ltd. for GENEVAN1116
LD 12/2/16



EDIT 1/15/2019:
Mattylight Barebones Bare Bones Wiring Diagram
1981 Kawasaki Kz550C2 for GENEVAN1116
Kz550C Kz550 C2 Kz 550 C 550C2 550C

i went through this thread and found it super helpful! I just came into a 82 KZ 1000 That I'm doing a hardtail conversion on. Is it going to be close to the same diagram? i can handle everything else but when it comes to wires i am clueless. Thanks!

Is your bike a KZ1000-K2 Ltd? If so, the first diagram on pg. 17 of this topic is for the 81 1000-K1 which is probably a close match.
If you have to replace any terminal pins, you could get open barrel terminals & a ratcheting open barrel crimper. the crimps are the same as stock & very strong. Cycleterminal.com has a good assortment of stock type electrical connectors, terminal pins & tools. also Z1Enterprises.com & Z1E has colored wire.

ps: I wouldn't use generic connectors n stuff from radio shack or the auto parts store or do mash crimps using a cheap generic crimper on a motorcycle.

martin_csr wrote: ps: I wouldn't use generic connectors n stuff from radio shack or the auto parts store or do mash crimps on a motorcycle.

D'oh,
That's how I've done every re-wire. (But with using high-quality automatic strippers and ratcheting crimpers.) I do it the same way I did it on diesel locomotives 25 years ago. I used to wire the motor control systems for Conrail and EMD. It was all simple, plastic-coated spade connectors (but pretty decent quality ones). Once the ratchet crimper is set properly, and you are using the correct size terminal for the wire at hand, they work pretty well, and hold tight. (Soldering greatly weakens the copper, so that was almost never used fro anything.) The only drawback is that it is not weatherproof (the locomotive control units were in water-tight enclosures). But Kz connectors were not really weatherproof either.

I will say, some generic spade connectors are better than others. You should regularly plan on sacrificial tests on some terminals by intentionally pulling them off... just make sure the crimps are good. I used to think Panduit were the best, but I'm not sure of that now. There is another common brand that I think I like better, but the name escapes me.

Now, using factory style connectors are definitely a step-up in neatness and style, but I'm not convinced it's any more reliable. I have some re-wire jobs that are probably 25 years old without any hiccups. I do route the harness differently in the critical areas, though, especially near the frame-to-handle-bar-headlight area. The factory setup is not very well thought out for an area that needs to be in motion. I try to run the harness in a direction parallel to the rotation axis, That way the harness is trying to twist along a straight section rather than bend and fold like an accordion. (Again, from the locomotive days, where a harness needed to extend from the enclosure to the surface of a movable door.) The copper seems to like to evenly spread the twist along the wire, whereas the bending seems to get confined to tiny spots that get weak over time. Any wrapping material also effects the bending and can cause kinking. That's the type of damage I come acroos most commonly in factory harnesses, and it's almost always at the steering stem.

Thanks. I'm kinda biased without very much real experience to back it up. hee. but there's plenty of generic rewiring around that doesn't look too good. The open barrel crimps are nice. Early on I redid the grounding rings on the front turn signals using cruddy terminals & I sealed the crimps using Permatex liquid metal. it kinda dries to a hard plastic. The connections seem pretty strong, are water-proof & have held up well, so I never bothered redoing them. hee.

I agree that my method definitely is not going to win any beauty contest, and there are plenty of ways it can go wrong, but the probably the most common mistake I find is in routing and securing the wires.

For show, multi-pin connectors do look nicer. I'm sure anything you wired looks way better than what I've done. I have to re-wire quickly, but still reliably so I don't have to rework.

When I'm rewiring bikes, I never really know what I'll be working on, and it would be too much to keep a full inventory of all of the connector types out there. So I just keep a stock of general purpose connectors and wires and then I can pretty much rewire any Japanese bike, working out of one toolbox full of supplies. I find I'm always making house-calls rather than having the bikes come to me so I have to be portable.

Since we're on the subject lol....im gonna finally do mine right, how many piece connector set would you recommend for a one time shot? And which crimpers that won't break the bank? Thanks guys!

The connector sets I recall seeing were rather expensive, so i just bought the parts separately.
CycleTerminal.com is where I get most of my stuff. The Sumitomo .250 & the .110 connectors are very similar to stock.
get extra terminal pins to practice crimping or in case you mess up. The connectors & pins are sized to match each other.
Some connectors use large terminal pins (voltage regulator) & some are small (fuel level switch). Z1Enterprises.com has colored wire.

Tools. Cycleterminal has a $32 crimper which is as about as cheap as they get. I already had a HF ratcheting crimper but the dies were wrong, so I got an open barrel die set off of amazon.com. the total cost ended up being about $30T for the crimper & dies..
cycleterminal also has a nice terminal pin extractor set which is very handy to have. white handles. keep in mind that after you buy a tool, especially a good one, you never have to buy it again.

cycleterminal.com

cycleterminal --- connectors

cycleterminal --- tools ... scroll down to bottom of page for crimping info.

Here are some other suppliers in case Cycle Terminal doesn't have a piece you need. Ed

hvccycle.net/electrical-connectors-wire/

www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Product...tors/connectors.html

vintageconnections.com/