1980 750H bare bones for mattylight

This is for mattylight. Lets see if it'll post.

you are the man!! seriously excellent help! i greatly appreciate it, and so fast too!!

No prob. I already had that one on file for 550's. Just so happens your 750 is very similar.

Good luck!

Here's one in case you use a Dyna S. Some have reported the instructions may have the black and green wire mixed up. They may have to be swapped to work correctly. (Or the magnetic rotor can be flipped around 180 degrees.)
.

oh that answers so many questions. as usual, great info...and so timely.
matt

Matt

I too had some issue(still do) hooking up or setting up my Dyna S on my SR 650. The thing with your schematic that is confusing me is that where you show your wires all terminating you have a dot is that to mean back to the harness plug or something? So I simply wire the Dyna S right up to the coils? sorry I looked at it again and see some light coming through the vaseline covered window... Now I am really confused, Dyna;s instructions were really not at all helpful..... anything you can do to shed some light is appreciated

xc

Post edited by: xstreamcanadian, at: 2007/11/13 22:41

xstreamcanadian wrote:

Matt

I too had some issue(still do) hooking up or setting up my Dyna S on my SR 650. The thing with your schematic that is confusing me is that where you show your wires all terminating you have a dot is that to mean back to the harness plug or something? So I simply wire the Dyna S right up to the coils? sorry I looked at it again and see some light coming through the vaseline covered window... Now I am really confused, Dyna;s instructions were really not at all helpful..... anything you can do to shed some light is appreciated

xc<br><br>Post edited by: xstreamcanadian, at: 2007/11/13 22:41

Are you addressing Matt or me? I drew up that schematic you see above.

On the schematic I drew:
12v comes from the battery to a bolt on the starter solenoid. From there, the 12v goes to the optional fuse, then to the main fuse, then to the ignition switch, then to the kill switch, then to a point where it branches to each coil and the red wire on the Dyna S. The coils get their ground through the Dyna S, and the Dyna S grounds out to the engine. Therefore, the engine must have a ground wire back to the battery.

I think what is confusing me is the way you have drawn the circuit. the kill switch should be NC not NO. As it is drawn it appears also that by pressing the start button, you short out hot to ground, if you hold the kill switch at the same time. Obviously this isnt the case. I realize you posted this to help someone who doesnt read schematics, but it there a more precise drawing of this one around? I am basically re-wiring my whole harness piece by piece, but I really dont have any understanding of how it should work, but I do know how electricity works and I wire up complex circuits for a living so as long as I can get it in my fat head about how it is supposed to function I can do it. I appreciate the play by play on the hot side, that helps.

xc

xstreamcanadian wrote:

I think what is confusing me is the way you have drawn the circuit. the kill switch should be NC not NO. As it is drawn it appears also that by pressing the start button, you short out hot to ground, if you hold the kill switch at the same time. Obviously this isnt the case. I realize you posted this to help someone who doesnt read schematics, but it there a more precise drawing of this one around? I am basically re-wiring my whole harness piece by piece, but I really dont have any understanding of how it should work, but I do know how electricity works and I wire up complex circuits for a living so as long as I can get it in my fat head about how it is supposed to function I can do it. I appreciate the play by play on the hot side, that helps.

xc

When I draw switches or relays etc, I draw them as if the machine is completely powered off. That would be with the kill switch open. It's the convention that is used most often, (but not always). Kaw schematics use the closed position, so if it's bothersome, I can just as easily draw it closed, but it's really not going to change the functionality of the schematic. It's just a toggle switch.

I don't know why you say the start button would short the hot. Do you not see the start button feeding voltage to the coil of the start solenoid? The solenoid has resistance so it is not a short.

I don't think you're going to find a more straight forward schematic, but I'll try. This one is drawn with the bike as it's being started. The red nodes are 12v and the blue nodes are ground. Green is AC. The switches are closed and the button is pressed and the relay is energized.

The coil of the starter solenoid is highlighted in a yellow square. That is where the 12v is dropped, but it is not a short. Electrical energy is converted to magnetism (and some heat) inside the coil.



Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2007/11/14 12:47

loudhvx wrote:

...complex?....

Not at all -- but could you reduce NASA Calling to ten words or less, and without saying sinusoidal? :lol:

And here is one with the bike running normal.



Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2007/11/14 12:53

Patton wrote:

loudhvx wrote:

...complex?....

Not at all -- but could you reduce NASA Calling to ten words or less, and without saying sinusoidal? :lol:

Very funny. Just for that, more trig homework for you!!!
:laugh: