1980 750H bare bones for mattylight

Do you have a schematic for that panel?

We've lost our filebase for schematics, do you have a wiring diagram for a 1979 MKII ?
Also, what is the letter designation for an 79 MKII? KZ1000??
Without the filebase it's very difficult for me to get details on the wiring since I don't have them all memorized.

Unfortunately I don't on either in terms of what color wires I'm considering making my own harness so that won't matter to much and most of the wires for the MKII are the same for a LTD if I'm not mistaken

Hey Loudhvx you wouldn't happen to have a simple wiring diagram for a 79 kz750 twin would ya? Been reading your topic and your definently the guy to ask. Im running kick start only, headlight, taillight, two gauges on my handlebars with the backlights, horn, and toggle switches. Debating on a key switch from the auto store or not. I would really appreciate your help man.

If there is a way You can incorporate an 8 pin Terminal block instead of the oem fuse box that would be awesome!

loudhvx wrote: 1981 Kawasaki KZ550C2 Ltd. for Calebjkd

If I wanted to add the horn I would just branch off the "hot" wire to the horn button, to the horn itself, then to ground, right?

Take a look at the 1980 KZ750-H1 wiring diagram in the link below. I believe when the horn button is pressed it connects to ground on the handlebars. So in the stock wiring a hot wire goes directly to one terminal on the horn, and a wire runs from the other terminal on the horn to the horn button. Then when the horn button is pressed it completes the circuit to ground and the horn is activated. Ed

mbsween.bike-night.com/kz750l3/media/KZ750-H1-US.jpg

Like Ed said, the horn button connects to ground via the handlebars.

Run a wire from the top wire (which is switched hot), to the horn, then another wire from the horn to the horn button, which will connect to ground when pressed.

Thanks guys!!

Hey Loudhvx I have a pretty good understanding of all your diagrams, and they have helped me a lot, so thank you so much. But I have two quick questions, where should I start when following any of these wiring diagrams, and what gauge wire should I use? I think Im gonna use the very first one on the first page. I have a 1981 KZ750!

Nevermind, i read through the full forum and have my questions answered, but what if I wanted to keep my turn signals, could I just wire them into the starter/killswitch?

If you check the diagrams, most of them, especially the later ones, follow a similar format. These are more or less schematics to show electrical function, but do not really show physical location of wires and components. Wiring diagrams show the physical layout along with more details on connectors etc.

My schematics generally (but not always) follow this architecture:

The power generation and regulation starts at the left side, battery and starter are usually just to the right of that, then ignition, then all of the lights and accessories are to the far right.

Current in the power generation, fuses, and main on/off switch flows from bottom to top. Then current for everything else flows top to bottom. (One exception is if the regulator has a dedicated detection wire, or if the alternator uses a field coil. That wiring will be to the far left, and current (if any) will flow top to bottom.)

The top horizontal line is switch 12v power, and the bottom horizontal line is ground.

Some of the earlier schematics may not follow this system, and may have things in different places, and power flow direction reversed (right to left, instead of left to right).

Gabe42 wrote: Nevermind, i read through the full forum and have my questions answered, but what if I wanted to keep my turn signals, could I just wire them into the starter/killswitch?

Keeping the above post in mind, you would tap into the top line for 12v power. So yes, you could tap from the top side of the kill switch, but anywhere on the top line will work as well.

Incidently, on the original Mattylight schematic, it would be better to leave out the optional fuse. Some Kawasaki's came with the fuse in that location, but it would actually be better to put it in the line coming out of the rectifier. I think Kawasaki eventually changed that fuse location back to the way it was in earlier KZ's because they realized it has the potential to do damage if the fuse blows, butthe bike keeps running.