1973 Z1 Maui

Did some disassembly on the motor today, just some peripherals. When I took the oil pan off it was a bit disappointing to see quite a lot of sludge in the bottom, some bits and quite a bit of stuff on the oil pump screen. I’ll be going through that pump in detail and I have a lot of cleaning to do. Before I split the cases I need to fab up a stand of some sort so I’m not wrestling the pig. I have a stand for the cb750. Had to drill the heads off several screws that seemed to have the “pre cammed out” feature, ugh. Went ok though. I also took the forks apart, made a tool to keep the valve from spinning on the inside. 
gotta keep going.

hardrockminer post=853417 slmjim is being modest about his vast store of Z1 knowledge.  Hopefully he stays in this thread.

Our interest in this thread is guaranteed!  Excellent '73 survivors like this bike are becoming a real rarity, and MauiZ1 shows every indication of having skill & desire to do the bike right the first time (no pressure there, huh?).  MauiZ1's good pics and detailed written descriptions will make this thread a treat!

MauiZ1 mentioned the sludge in the pan and debris on the pump screen.  Considering the sketchy history of the bike, it's not that bad & looks reasonably liquid-ish, or at least not solid and, not deep.  Fairly routine, considering.  Our 'The Wounded Z' project bike came to us with coal-black sludge on top of solid, gray sludge in the pan, 2 ~ 3 mm. deep in some places that required some concerted effort to scrape out clean enough to put in the parts washer.  Much of that can be attributed to the standing water that was found sitting on top of pistons 3 & 4 upon head removal.  The water had been weeping past the rings for a few decades & basically welded the rings to the liners.

The screen on MauiZ1's pump doesn't look bad either, just routine small debris.

Can't see the second gear dogs in the transmission pic.  If they're not seriously rounded we'd not touch the shaft assys. at all.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

This week is fairly busy so I may slow down a bit but I'm going to fab up a stand to hold the engine so I can handle it easily. My garage is a little packed so I'll need to move stuff around to do the fabrication work. 
I appreciate all the compliments, I've gotten hooked on making this Z1 right so it can go another 40 years.
I also appreciate the help, it's invaluable.

The oil pan looks a bit yucky but the plug magnet looks clean, which is good news in terms of engine wear!  The pump screen also looks clean.  

I can't wait to see what kind of a frame you build for the engine.  Machinists are always creative!

Kind of crude, but I used material I had laying around in my shop.

 I worked on a fork leg today and was disappointed to see, after the silver paint was removed that I think the PO bead blasted them, at least that’s what it looks like. I doubt it came with the pocked texture that it has. I may need to get my sanders out to work the texture down. 
A bit of good news, the engine fits my CB750 engine stand, now I don’t have to wrestle it so much. I can roll it around and even flip it if needed.
not as good as a rotisserie but it will help. I need a welder!

Moving along nicely, a damn site faster than mine...!!

The pic of the fork leg barely has the resolution to see the texture mentioned.  The original fork leg finish was smooth, but with very fine linishing marks that are very difficult to reproduce once blasted or polished over.  They're similar to the very fine linishing marks visible in the chrome on factory-chromed OEM rims.  Chrome shops invariably polish out the marks when re-chroming rims.

We were able to sorta-maybe-kinda reproduce linishing marks on fork legs by attaching a half-dozen lengths of ~6" long, 1/8" dia. sisal rope to a drill-mounted arbor, then wipe a light coat of valve lapping compound on the legs.  Once the compound was applied, spin the arbor in the drill to 'whip' the legs with the ends of the rope perpendicular to the length of the leg.  It was an experiment that once we began, we felt compelled to complete.  It produced a reasonable facsimile of the original finish but, if we had it to do over again, we'd just leave the finish as wet sanding with 2,000 grit produced.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE.

I have a sisal wheel for my bench grinder, I'll try it.
Great suggestion.

I sanded the divits out of mine, then vapour blasted them, then lightly sanded with 3,000 wet/dry.

This is what they looked like when done.

The frame goes for sandblasting today with the swing arm and center stand.
I did some more cleaning. I think I have a paintable cylinder block with a bit of hand work. It took 3 cycles of Citrus Strip and pressure washing, it takes time but it seems to work. I don't have the option of vapor honing so this is the next best thing. I thought about setting up my own vapor blasting rig but it wouldn't get enough use and would take up a lot of space I don't have.
I cleaned up some other parts, I might need more work on them when I get closer to putting thing back together. I'm waiting on a valve compression tool to strip the head and take the paint off. I'll also be checking valves and seals.
Soon it will be on to the engine.
The triples get painted.

I’ve decided that the fork lowers need to be returned to a brush look instead of the pocked look. To that end I ordered a 1” x 42” bench top belt sander and a belt package that goes up to 1000 grit. This should get me there and they will look right, that pocked surface just doesn’t look right.