1973 Z1 Maui

Until you find a John Brookes book here is a guide to understanding Kawasaki date code. 

www.kawatriple.com/tips/datecodes/datecodes.htm

EDIT: Sorry no exotic stories of me living in paradise. 

Nice bike, big bore kit?

Apologies....I should have added a link.  The book is sold through Z Power.  Here is the link.

www.z-power.co.uk/z1-parts-book-by-john-brooks

If that doesn't work out let me know via PM and I'll pass John's email address onto you.

Keanae is nice, I used to go there a lot when I worked for DOT here. Things rust very quickly here, zinc turns to dust. That's why I have to use stainless spokes or I'm just chasing my tail.
On some of my Keanae excursions, our Highways supervisor out there would take me to an isolated field to pick small fern shoots (fiddlehead fern) to make what is called Pohole salad, it's a local favorite and very tasty.
Carbs are going together, maybe it will run soon. I'll get some new photos.

Hi Maui...before you decide on the dual disc set up, you need to know that the stock Z1 brake is much stronger than that of an sohc 750.

Here’s a link to John Brookes Facebook page. 

www.facebook.com/groups/118847371535324/user/100007281196201/

Interesting about the brakes. Lots to learn.

Thank you, and yes Wiseco 1327 street kit from the 80's.  Should have mowed the lawn .....

The carbs will come off again after I run it and then take it apart. Right now I am bench synchronizing them and my shop manual is not like my carbs. The initial setting of the slides requires a .6 to .7 mm space between the notch in the bottom of the slide and the throat. It implies I can adjust all 4 carbs this way. I seem to have a set where the number 4 carb is a fixed setting and the others are adjusted (initially) to match. I included a photo or two. You can see that number 4 has no adjustment screw. The gap under the slide is fixed and is about .5mm. I do not have a drill bit that small but I do have my wife’s silver and gold filled wire. I got a piece and carefully flattened it to make a go gauge. All 4 set now, next step is clear tube check for which I made a little stand.

Not sure if it’s correct but the fixed carb is commonly referred to as the lead carb. You could have adjusted the idle speed thumb screw to get the .6-.7mm spacing on the lead, then set the rest to the same. If I understand correctly you made a gauge wire the fit the lead (fixed) car slide, then adjusted the rest to said gauge, you effectively did the same thing. Now if you were to turn idle speed thumb screw to get the .6-.7mm gap the other 3 will match. You have completed the bench sync. Continue 

Before setting your floats you might want to read this post on a different method.  It will save you the cost of the clear tube, is much faster and much cleaner.  Just don't tell your wife where her glasses went.

www.kzrider.com/forum/forum-index/3-carb...n-setting-fuel-level

I just read that great float level thread, very informative. I already have a clear tube tool slated for delivery today so I’ll give it a try, I made one for my K3 750 that worked well, those bowls have an easier bowl drain to work with.
I leveled up my rack and fixture this morning.
if everything goes well I hope to hear it run soon, then it’s on with the restoration!
I found NOS front and back fenders, they are on the way. It had reproduction fenders with very rusty chrome.