1980 KZ1000E ST project

Are you sure your starter is disengaging? .
Steve

Yeah, I was a little overzealous with the button. It seems fine. R

Is the oil cover plug bolt supposed to have the bypass valve stiff in it? This one is bare. R

I don't get you.
Steve

The 550 and 650 have oil bypass valves in the filter bolt. 1000 don't...got my manual today... Hooray!!!

So, I found a oil filter locally and it came with both the o rings so my pesky oil leak is cured I warmed the engine thoroughly and pulled plugs, locked throttle open and performed a compression test on all cylinders. #1 135, #2 135, #3 135, #4 140. So that all looks good. It was smoking pretty good from all the grime on the cylinder head and pipes. It diminished and I assume after a few runs will stop. I think the PO has a lock bolt in the cam chain tensioner will be checking that out soon. The throttle hangs some due to the old cables, but other wise was smooth and responsive. The alternator is making charging output with 14.87v at the battery terminals at about 4k, stays at 14.1v at idle. I think the reg/rec is fine, but I do have a flea bay replacement. Got the bags off - turn wire all cobbled into the tail light, looking at wheels and brakes soon. The back brake sticks but is free. Front brake operates, but the MC is completely roached, no visible fluid and has a lot of crud in it. It's the rectangle model that leaks, so I will replace when possible. Rear unit needs to be inspected. From the grunge a new oil seal on the ring gear may be needed. With brake free the rear unit is free and rolls smoothly. Ran thru all five gears. There is a lot to do, but I am encouraged and I will have her on th road at some point. Will still be considering engine overhaul, but may get her together and rolling first, we'll see. R

I'd do the valve guide seals at least. That way you can inspect ti cam chain guides/rollers if any. It will run but may foul plugs. Mine did for a year until I did it.
Steve

Yep. A good idea for sure. I forget, does the head have to come off or just buckets? The pistols were pretty carboned up from what I could see with a small light. If the head is pulled is new base gasket needed? Anyway a lot to do. R

If you don't disturb the base gasket it could stay on there. The head has to come off. Chances are the carbon is from the seals. You can check the bores while you're at it.
Steve

At the miles I have, a top end rebuild is the way to go. PO said he wants it back. Sorry Charlie. R

Of course he does. Tell him to take the thumb out of his mouth and grow up. :evil:
Steve

Got the bike thoroughly warmed up and performed a compression test. All 4 plugs out and throttle pinned open. #1 - 135, #2 - 135, #3 - 135 and #4 - 140. That all looks good to my read of the manual. Any suggestions on brakes? Can I use the old seals and dust covers if they are not leaking? An what about lines? I assume they are scaled up inside. Can they be flushed with brake cleaner or best to replace? Again no leaks. Both the front and rear brakes are sticking, The front MC has a bout an inch of roached fluid, the rear fluid looks old, but not trashed. Pads look fine. Also if anyone of familiar with drive release let me know any tricks.It looks siiliar of not identical to my vulcan. Any input appreciated. R

During the warm up I also checked the charging system. Battery had 14.87v at 4000 rpm, 14.12v at idle. I think the rectifier/regulator is fine.