CSR1000 Project Build

Very nicely done.

Thanks everyone but all is not well. The bike is suffering from incontinence again. This is the third time and its doin my head in.It seems to be favouring the 4th carb,which I have cleaned twice now already. The last time,I disconnected the fuel line from the tank and the petrol pissed out all over the place. I managed to drain it into a clean bucket. I pulled the fuel tap apart and gave that a clean,pulled carb 4 apart and cleaned the float needle and seat and I fitted an inline fuel filter. After drying out the K&N,the bike started ,no problem.I took it for a drive and everything seemed ok though I did get a sense of hesitation on the throttle.
Next day walking past the bike and theres a nice big puddle under it.The engine paint is bubbling up and the No4 K&N is soaking again!!!
FFFFFFFFFFFFFFF>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>!!!!!! Im getting so frustrated with this.
And I still havent sorted out the clutch yet.

And just when the weather is getting better.
Looks like a float level problem.
Do you heve a normal petcock or a vacuum one?

I jfound out this week that my cylinder head is cracked so I am on a hold right now.
Eric

Its a vacuum petcock.I ordered a rebuild kit yesterday,should get it Tuesday. I pulled everything apart again today.Petrol pissing out of the petcock again.No 'off' position. I drained the tank,took off the tap and closed the hole with a bit of MDF for now. I drained the carbs and cleaned No.4s float needle and put everything back together again. I noticed that the float bowl was covered in a very fine 'dust' like material.
I cleaned it out and checked the others.Same thing. Im hoping that this is from before I fitted the inline filter. The filter looks clean though.
So next stage is to rebuild the petcock and cross my fingers that it will solve the problem. Im worried that I may need to fit new float needles and seats etc. Also if there is crap in the tank thats getting through the tank filter. The inline filter wont matter as the crap will get into the diaphram in the tap and jam it open,leading to what its doing now. My other worry is that the fuel may have gotten into the engine!
Ill have to check the oil before I try starting it again.

I had the same thing happen to my KZ1100. The disk that goes under the lever with the holes around it was all chewed up. I put one from the KZ1000 I rebuilt before I t parted it out and I haven't any problems yet.

fingers crossed.

I bought these rebuild kits for the carbs and used some parts of it.
Mainly the gaskets and the float parts, but had a laking like you 2 times.
Both times it was small pieces of rubbish from the tank that prevented the float needle to block the fuel.
Because I have an old petcock not much fuel leaked when it was closed but it poured out while running.
Cleaned the carbs and put inline fuel filters in and problem solved.
I don't like the vacuum ones because you have no control.

Eric

Been a while since I posted anything as Its been a while since Ive done anything with the bike. Today,I went down and rebuilt the fuel tap.Refitted it and put some fuel into the tank.So far so good.No leaks.The tap is holding and carb No.4 seems to also be holding,though I wont know for sure until after a couple of days.
I got the bike started. The weather is very warm today so it started up ok.Then I gave the throttle a blip and the whole thing died.Power out!!!
I checked the fuses and they all seemed good,scratched my head then went to check the battery. The battery was HOT!. Never had that before.The bike had run for ,maybe 1 minute maximum before I blipped the throttle.So,I reckon theres something very wrong there.
I pulled the battery out and fitted one from an old Honda I have lying around. It was a bit low and struggled to crank the engine over but it managed in the end and the bike started up. Blipped the throttle again.No problem. Revved it. Sounds good and happy.
So Ive now got the old (at least 10 years) Honda battery out and on charge. The new Motobatt (not even 6 months old) will be going back to the shop.
Thats it for now.

Ok,so swapping the cheap oil for better quality has not done anything noticable to improve the clutch action. Its still quite heavy at the lever and dosnt like to go into neutral.
As I posted before,I have been playing with the spacing of the hydraulic piston, but I cannot find a sweet spot.So,its time to open up the clutch and see whats going on inside.

No shrapnel,everything looking clean enough.

The pressure plates seem to be going in the wrong direction according to my Clymer. Anybody know how important this is?

2 steel plates beside each other?? That cant be right????

Some grooving on the basket.Not too deep but I want to get rid of it to be sure.
Problem now is,I dont have a 30mm socket or a clutch holding tool so I cant pull the basket of to work on it!!!!

So opinions on the direction of the grooves on the pressure plates and the 2 steel plates side by side? There are no pressure plates side by side and the stack starts and ends with a pressure plate (as the Clymer says).

the extra steel is common practice to help stiffen up an old clutch.
the frictions going that way i wouldn't worry about.all the ones i have seen had radial grooves.
a rag wrapped around the clutch basket and an air impact is usually sufficient to break the clutch nut loose.

hth,

leon

So,Leon,you dont think the extra steel plate would be the reason for the heaviness at the lever and the difficult neutral??

I like the idea of the rag and the impact driver but this time I went for the aluminium bar bolted onto the spring mounts


Its the only way to go if you want to snap off a couple of spring mounts!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Dayum, that bites.

well now you know why you won't be doing that again :sick:
tough lesson.

the extra plate would account for the heavy lever.
the trouble finding neutral is imho likely the pins and the claw that rotate the shift drum.or possibly the shifting dogs.

leon


p.s. take that extra plate and weld a handle onto it and voila clutch holding tool.