Phoenix Fighter

There's one near the bottom of this page that uses the stock cover:
americanclassix.com/kawa_improvements.html

It looks similar to the one pictured in the last link davido posted above.

Perfect. I saved the page. Thanks.
Steve

davido wrote: Heres a nice looking one. Cheap as chips as well.
www.dgchassis.net/Dragbike%20parts/dragbike-parts.aspx

Also
pmfr.com/clutch-release-kits/clutch-release-kits

and heres a link to some info if you want to use the original cover (Steve)
www.z1ownersclub.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p...ic+clutch+conversion

$75 from D&J ? I may have to take the easy way out. Thanks for the links Davido.

:woohoo: $75.00 is freakin cheap !

your under tray and m-unit/elec.mounting is very sanitary looking.

them switches is nice too .

leon

The D&G clutch release cover is for the stock mechanism....does not include a slave cylinder or any way to mount one. Would probably be pretty easy to modify though. I like the PMFR a little better for $80....the bolts are countersunk and look a lot better IMHO. I have both brands....PMFR wasn't available for a long time during a change of ownership. Looks like they're back up and running now.

79MKII wrote: The D&G clutch release cover is for the stock mechanism....does not include a slave cylinder or any way to mount one. Would probably be pretty easy to modify though. I like the PMFR a little better for $80....the bolts are countersunk and look a lot better IMHO. I have both brands....PMFR wasn't available for a long time during a change of ownership. Looks like they're back up and running now.

Thanks for the heads up. Is the PMFR also for using the stock worm drive or will it accept a slave cylinder?

531blackbanshee wrote: :woohoo: $75.00 is freakin cheap !

your under tray and m-unit/elec.mounting is very sanitary looking.

them switches is nice too .

leon

Little by little it's getting there.

So I went from stock cams to Andrews 1X cams. Does anyone have any input as to how much this will affect my shims? Right now they are all tight. I was thinking I could measure the base circle and lift on both and try to figure out a starting point. They were good before but I have had the head done and valves tipped. I word prefer not to spend $300 on shims.

This is going to sound weird but you can use the beer can trick to shim up your cams and take your readings, then remove the shims from under the bearings. Be sure to shim the cam towers too. Measure the thickness of the can stock and subtract. I'll be back later, late to work.
Steve

swest wrote: This is going to sound weird but you can use the beer can trick to shim up your cams and take your readings, then remove the shims from under the bearings. Be sure to shim the cam towers too. Measure the thickness of the can stock and subtract. I'll be back later, late to work.
Steve

I'm not quite following you Steve, can you break that process down a bit for me please.

kaw-a-holic wrote:

79MKII wrote: The D&G clutch release cover is for the stock mechanism....does not include a slave cylinder or any way to mount one. Would probably be pretty easy to modify though. I like the PMFR a little better for $80....the bolts are countersunk and look a lot better IMHO. I have both brands....PMFR wasn't available for a long time during a change of ownership. Looks like they're back up and running now.

Thanks for the heads up. Is the PMFR also for using the stock worm drive or will it accept a slave cylinder?

Yes, PMFR is also for the stock set up.

Back in 78 I had bent valves due to a broken cam chain. I strapped the head to one of those little old lady pull carts, took a bus to LA, got my head fixed and came back home. When I put in the cams, I found the clearances were 0 or less. There wasn't a K shop for 60 miles. I had only the bike and it wouldn't run. I slept on it and the next morning I cut some shims out of a beer can, put them under the cam bearings, poked holes where the oil galleys were and shimmed the cam towers up with my beer can stock. I was desperate. It worked. I rode the bike to Riverside, got my shims and rode home. The beer can thickness is about 0.10mm/0.004". You can shim up your cams like this to take a reading on your shims.
Steve