Phoenix Fighter

Thanks for the help! Now back to the regularly scheduled build thread.....

79MKII wrote:

kaw-a-holic wrote: ... It was really easy. was concerned about it working at since I couldn't use the applicator to get the Helicoil in the hole due to the shoulder. Just like you said Steve. ...

I'm having this same concern right now myself. I have an M6 thread that I'd like to heli-coil but fine thread heli-coils are supposed to use that pre-coiler or whatever they call it. The hole is where a knock pin goes, so it's basically countersunk....can't get that tool in there. These can be wound in by hand? Is that what you guys are saying? I wanted to try it but once it's drilled, there's no turning back. You weren't able to install the heli-coil without removing the head, were you?

Took the head off, left the cylinders on. I used just the threaded rod that cam in the kit. Trust me it didn't just go in. I held it as straight as I could applied downward pressure, turned and hoped for the best. I didn't have anything to loose. The old threads were wasted,
Worse case is I would have just tapped it and ran a bigger bolt.

Bad news boys. The motor has to come out. There is something scrapping on the inside but I can't see. I can not make a complete rotation without is binding up so its time to split the cases. The good news is now I can correct a couple of things I wasn't to keen about anyway. Almost made it, almost. :pinch:

Hey! Now I can get my crank welded. Do I need to ship this to an expert? OMR if you are reading this have you had any cranks welded in AZ?

A good welder can apply a 3/4-1" bead along the pin and crank throw. That's all you need. The rod side play should be checked. Kawasaki did a good job on these cranks.
Steve

kaw-a-holic wrote:

79MKII wrote:

kaw-a-holic wrote: ... It was really easy. was concerned about it working at since I couldn't use the applicator to get the Helicoil in the hole due to the shoulder. Just like you said Steve. ...

I'm having this same concern right now myself. I have an M6 thread that I'd like to heli-coil but fine thread heli-coils are supposed to use that pre-coiler or whatever they call it. The hole is where a knock pin goes, so it's basically countersunk....can't get that tool in there. These can be wound in by hand? Is that what you guys are saying? I wanted to try it but once it's drilled, there's no turning back. You weren't able to install the heli-coil without removing the head, were you?

Took the head off, left the cylinders on. I used just the threaded rod that cam in the kit. Trust me it didn't just go in. I held it as straight as I could applied downward pressure, turned and hoped for the best. I didn't have anything to loose. The old threads were wasted,
Worse case is I would have just tapped it and ran a bigger bolt.

A tap is self centering more or less. As long as it goes in straight and you stop when too much resistance is felt, back off a little, and cut some more, it will turn out well. A little oil helps prevent galling of the threads. I always use oil when drilling or tapping threads.
Steve

I'm going to pull the cylinders back off and do a double check, I really don't want to pull the cases. I am not sure I can get it all back together. The transmission is what really makes me apprehensive about splitting the cases.

Piece of cake. nothing is going to go sproing on you.
Steve

kaw-a-holic wrote: I'm going to pull the cylinders back off and do a double check, I really don't want to pull the cases. I am not sure I can get it all back together. The transmission is what really makes me apprehensive about splitting the cases.

A fear grossly exaggerated by the uninitiated

+1, there's only two shafts, three shift forks and the shift drum, nothing really.

Thanks guys, I appreciate the encouragement. I wI'll feel better about going through. Would really like to take a look at the crank and rod bearings.

The only check for the crank and rod bearings are a simple wiggle test for the rods (not 100% sure on this next one) and a side clearance check for the crank bearings.

You may also want to check the small shift fork rod, theyre supposedly easy to bend and the later 77 and early 78 I had someone did a poor job cutting the circlip groove at the end of the shaft. Which made it so the shaft could slip and trash 2nd gear on me.

It would also be a good time to back cut or have your tranny back cut. 2nd. gear is the most used power gear. It is the first to go. Two years ago I did mine but it had high miles on it. It had been popping out of gear and back cutting it solved that problem, not for long. Knowing of a up coming problem I bought a low mileage tranny. After about a year my old one started to act up and I had my new one back cut and ready.Took one day to yank out the motor, the next to put in back in, grumbling the whole time. The main shift fork is the biggest issue on the Z1's. A KZ 1000 is beefier so I changed the forks and drum. I got them from The Old Kaw Man. I suggest changing the shift return spring also to a 4 wind. The older models had 2. Best to do it now than later.
Steve