Testarossa's 78 KZ1000 Fighter Build

i like talking crows but they are illegal unless you have a permit,what kinna bird you gonna give me????

nice project...could care less what bike you guys build...keep the pics coming and don't worry bout little turds like me...love the zx10.....going to look in a shed tomorrow she says all she knows is that it's a kawasaki 82 and green....i can barely wait...could it be a E,,probably a cop bike...anyway...keep both hands on the wheel....testarossa wrote:

trianglelaguna wrote:

keep both hands on the wheel...

Ok now listen. I'm not interested in getting involved in some kind of flame war with you over my project. I have seen your attempts at antognizing the memebers here who have been building your so called "hybrid" bikes. The first thing that you need to know is that I have never once made any statement about improving the handling of my motorcycle.

At least, do yourself a favor and read the entirety of my build thread. My goal is to take an otherwise forgotten, run of the mill 1978 kz1000 that has been sitting in a yard for 15 years and get it back on the road. I am doing the conversion for many reasons. My stock wheels were bent and rusty beyond salvation. My swingarm barely moved because the bearings were totally seized. I had bent handlebars tattered seat, porous rusty dented tank. My steering bearings were notchy, and I had no gauges. I purchased my donor GSXR 750 for $250 which is about the same amount of money that I would have spent replacing the wheel bearings, swingarm bearings and tube, steering neck bearings, and rebuilding the stock fork. I bought the bike for $400 with a title and a dream that I will not let you divert me from for more than the 45min. it will take to write this. I repeat that I never once stated that I was attempting to improve the handling.

I hope that your intention is not to scare me away from this forum or my project. I can assure you that you are dealing with the most stubborn SOB on KZRider, and your infantile attempts at internet aggression will only serve as motivation.

Another thing that I can assure you of is the fact that I already own a bike that handles well(2004 zx-10r), so I will be able to assess weather or not my efforts produced an ill handling bike or not.

I'm not sure why you started drinking the hateraide, but put that shit down man. It ain't making you any friends here. As a matter of fact I found this little gem that you wrote in response to my first post when I clearly announced my intentions for my project.

Trianglelaguna said:
interesting clone,good for you and welcome....i have the zx10r bug pretty bad right now,it comes and goes,i am 6'7" and can get my foot in the 09 cbr1000rr linkage ,but not the others in stock form, but want my new gen bike to be a zx10r,there is strong talk of an all new for 2010 zx10 and i will have to see ......there are a lot around here online from 04-09 and some as low as 5000.....

or do i wait 2 yrs and see if i still "gotta have it" or not


i know this,25 yrs and i still do u-turns to check out a kz....


welcome good pics...keep em coming...craig

Some other things that you need to know about me. 1) If I had a bike with some intrinsic value, such as Z-1, or a sandcast CB 750, or a Vincent Black Shadow, then I would be doing a bone stock restoration. As a matter of fact I would really like to have a Z-1 someday. Wire wheels, drum brake and all. 2) If everyone on KZrider hated my bike, then I would still build it the same way. But appearently a few people have been interested since I have had 3500 views so far. 3) I don't cotton to you pissing in my corner of the back yard.

So in closing, if you feel like I'm a prick and you hate my bike and everything that it represents, then do what the rules state and take a pass. If you read this and can be honest enough with yourself to admit that you miss spoke, then I can forgive and move forward. Heck it seems like we share a lot of interests. I love MotoGP, and all forms of roadbike racing. I wish that I lived close enough to Laguna Seca to go see the boys mix it up on the corkscrew. And oh yeah, by the way, I also care enough about old Kawasakis to spend 10 hrs a week on this forum. Or if you just lost your job, dog died, wife cheated on you, and you cant find an outlet for you hatred, then I'll be happy to have a beer with you and help you talk through a solution to the world's problems. Finally, if you read through this and realize that you got me angry enough to spend my time writing a response, and you still think that it is okay, then I can assure you that I will ride with one hand long enough to give you the bird as I ride past your house.

So lets be adults and get past this, it's what I would like.

When eating birds, I prefer Mourning Dove. Stuffed with jalapeno, wrapped with bacon, and cooked over a wood fire! That's how we do it in Texas. If you must have crow, then come to Spring sometime. They're legal if you can prove that they cause depredation.

Thanks,
Josh

trianglelaguna wrote:

will you be riding this bike....

Nope, when she's finished she'll be propped up and pedels put on for a stationary excersize bike.....Here's your sign

porchev914 wrote:

I think Mark is referring to the springs in the back of the clutch basket. Right Mark?

Yes. The springs in the back of the clutch basket are the shock absorbers for the basket. They can ware grooves into the basket where they are housed. if they are very sloppy, it would be a good idea to look into replacing them. i found the end of a spring in my sump.
If there bad let me know i can let u know how to replace them. its a drill out and re-weld type job.
Look at the last page of my build. there is a pic of it .

kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...it=20&limitstart=120

Thanks mark, I'll look into those springs tomorrow. I checked out all of the stuff on the head today, and everything is in real good shape. I'll post some results later as well as a brainstorm that I had today.

Is that my crank in the last picture of your thread?

Yes. I noticed quite a dif when i wnet to the MK11 crank from the z1. The z1 defiantly reved, a lot faster.:woohoo:
as a matter of fact, i over reved it and the valves kissed the pissteys.Those parts can get very friendly in there, if u dont keep any eye on them. lol oversize valves need fresh springs now and then.
The polished rod ends are to help reduce the chance of fractures.
I have a rev limiter now.

I got out the serious measuring tools and checked out all of the valvetrain today.



New intake valve stem diameter is 0.275" and the low limit is 0.272. All of my stems measured between 0.2739" and 0.2741". New exhaust valve stem diameter should be 0.274", and the low limit is 0.272". My exhaust valve stems measure between 0.2737" and 0.2739"



Now on to the runout in the valve stems. New valves should be less than 0.001" runout and the limit for used valves is 0.002" All of my valves ran out between 0.0002" and 0.0004"



I also used some gauge pins to measure the valve guide diameters. My Clymer manual says that the valve guide ID should be 0.276" and the wear limit is 0.279". All of my intake guides measured 0.276", and all of the exhaust measured 0.275".

Now as promised, I had a brainstorm while checking out my valve springs. First I checked out the squarness of the valve springs. The manual says that the spring should be square within 0.060". All of my springs were between 0.025" and 0.030". Easy enough.

Now it comes to measuring the spring tension. On KZ900's all you have to do is measure the free length. However for KZ1000's you must check the tension while compressed to a set length. Oh no! Special tools required. What's a guy to? Without further ado Joshco would like to introduce the Nuclear Precision Bathroom Scale Valve Spring Compressor. The NPBSVSC allows the impoverished engine builder to properly check his valve springs with confidence.



Pretty simple actually. Take one bathroom scale, a piece of flat steel, a length of 1" square tube, and your bench vise. Place the flat steel on the scale with the valve spring and something that measures the same length that you want to compress the spring to. Then zero the scale. Use the square tube to compress the spring until you just feel it start to touch your stop and record the scale reading.



So my manual says that the inner springs should have 63lbs at a length of 0.930" with a minimum of 54lbs. All of my springs were between 61 and 65. Outer springs should have 114lbs at 1.010" with a minimum of 102lbs. Mine all measured between 111 and 117.

dude!! im blown away at your ingenuity, frame, bodywork, paint?iv above average knowledge the mechanics of the bike but this is like teaching a blonde how to pause live t.v to me, i wish i knew this sh!t,.

Thats awfully ingenious Josh! And as you know, the Nuclear Precision Series of measuring instruments are certified to the nearest tenth of an atom. I'm jelous of your measuring instrument collection though :woohoo:

Thank You gentlemen. The NPBSVSC includes a certificate of calibration that is traceable to NIST. This is my favorite type of innovation. It allows the regular guy to achieve professional results with commonly available tools.

Adam, this is one of those rare times that I have the tools of the trade. Literally! I run super precision small parts at work, so good measuring tools are a necessity. Here's a video of the machine that I run, program, and plan for.

Lets see, if I get rid of the washer and dryer, I might be able to squeeze one of those bad boys in next to the air compressor....... :laugh: