Testarossa's 78 KZ1000 Fighter Build

I'll do the same thing. See how she rides, handles and scrapes, then change if needed

Not too much progress to report this week. I've been hitting the books. Studying for all of my upcoming parts orders. Needless to say Jeff get ready cause I'm gonna hit up Z-1 very soon. I want to see delivery trucks lining up on my street like fire ants.:woohoo: Just ordered a sequential led taillight and a new windscreen for the 10r.

Now for the sad news. I made the mistake of taking a micrometer to my clutch disks. Book sez they're supposed to be 0.140" minimum. Mine are 0.110" New clutch time.

I still need to put together my tire mount and balance diy, but I'm pissed about how the pics came out. I got a smudge on my lense and most pictures are fuzzy. Damned, dirty-ass, crusty, Dunlops. Ok I feel better now.

I need to put an order in to Z1 too, last time I got to the checkout and the total scared me and I couldn't finish.

Now I just keep redefining my budget, at first it was supposed to include everything, then I decided to exclude the parts I bought last spring to get the bike going initially. Now I just have to exclude the paint job and powdercoat and I'll be good to go!

That's how budgets work right? :blink: You always have that money left to spend! :woohoo:

The clutch plates aren't that bad price wise, unless you need the steel plates too, then it gets a little pricier.

And if you think you're spending too much just remember your budget!!

I like your plan Jake. Heck it works for the government. Why not do a little "Deficit Spending" for the greater good. I'm about this close to going whole-hog and building the 1075 motor now.

BTW my steels look good, but I still need to check 'em for warp. Some of those babies are stuck to the friction disks.

Are you speaking of the Dunlops that required the Jaws of Life to remove? I thought I saw new Michelins on your ride, no?

Damn budgets always gettin in the way! But if we had all the money we needed, we wouldn't appreciate scrounging a great deal, or building something yourself that everyone else just buys. Its the tight budgets that makes us innovators and customizers.....Or we can't leave well enough alone and have to screw with anything we own. That would be me...on both counts :lol:

When I picked up the 1" round stock, I asked if they had any Ti, and they had some 1/8" sheet. I think they quoted me $160 for a 2'x2' piece. If I had access to a TIG welder I would have picked it up, just to find parts to replace with it. Yeah, thats right, my cup holders Ti.

porchev914 wrote:

Are you speaking of the Dunlops that required the Jaws of Life to remove? I thought I saw new Michelins on your ride, no?

Damn budgets always gettin in the way! But if we had all the money we needed, we wouldn't appreciate scrounging a great deal, or building something yourself that everyone else just buys. Its the tight budgets that makes us innovators and customizers.....Or we can't leave well enough alone and have to screw with anything we own. That would be me...on both counts :lol:

Yeah, I'm talking about the old Dunlops. I don't have anything cross to say about the Michelins yet. If that front tire cups on me then maybe, but I like 'em so far. Michelins are actually my favorite tires to mount. They're quite plyable, and ususally are very well balanced. I have made a practice of balancing my rim with no tire, and the Michelins seldom influence placement or amount of weight. Can't say the same for Bridgestones or Dunlops. I want to try some Pirelli/Metzlers and some Conti's in the future. Check out the Pirelli Angel sometime. Cool tread design.

I started taking measurements on all of my engine components this evening. Keep in mind that my plan is to run with a stock engine at first, so I'm trying to save as much as I can right now.

The bores are good. Roundness less than 0.001" and taper is about 0.001" on all four holes. Cylinder ID's are all between 2.757 and 2.758.

Piston diameters were all 2.754. Good. Piston ring groove width was 0.049" Ring free and installed gaps were all close to the new specs and well in tolerance. Ring thickness was 0.046 on all rings.

Cam lobes and bearing journal diameters were all in spec. as I previously stated. I plan on getting into the head over the weekend.


Now I have questions for all of the engine gurus.

1) Should I worry about getting into my oil pump to check the clearances inside? Doesn't look like that gasket is in a rebuild set. Do the pumps ever give trouble?

2) My Clymer manual says that 20 links of the cam chain should measure less than 6.21" However there is no drawing to show you where to measure. What I mean to say is do they want you to measure from the far end of link #1 to the opposite end of link #20 or do you measure from the the front pin on #1 to the same side of the same pin on #20? Hope that makes sense. The chain looks new, and I can't detect any slop. It's measures longer than 6.21" if you use the first method that I described. Or do I just replace it? $40, cheap insurance.

3) My manual states that the carbon ridge at the top of the cylinder should not be removed if the original pistons and rings are being reused. Does this mean that I shouldn't hone the cylinders before I re-assemble? I would normally hone the cylinders on any other engine to break the glaze.

4) As I stated before, my clutch friction discs will need replacement, but I discovered extra plates in my clutch. Z-1e's website says 8 fiber discs and 7 steels for this bike. I have 10 fibers and 9 steels. Two of the steels are noticably different than the other 7, but all of the fibers look the same. So is it 8 or 10? I never got to ride the bike, but the clutch actuation was quite stiff. could this be due to the four extra discs putting more preload on the springs?

I can only pass on some insight on one of your questions bud. As long as your clutch steels are within spec just replace the fibers with the correct number of stock replacements. Larry C advised me on my 1075 build to stay away from the "extra disk" clutch kits. I wonder if the clutch was worn out, and the PO threw in some handy extra plates to give her a few more miles??? You're gonna have to bang out some progress to pick up my slack while I recover from fathering a new girl :lol:

FYI- In reference to my avatar: you have no idea how hard it is to land an airplane after hot boxing the cockpit :lol:

I can only assume that the plane in your avatar was blown over, or is this some kind of really cruel pilot humor?

Progress on the way this weekend. Working 10hrs a day right now, so I tend to be lazy during the week.

BTW, Mark I got a much better measurment on my sprocket offset last night. Looks like 1/2" is all I'll need.

testarossa wrote:

1) Should I worry about getting into my oil pump to check the clearances inside? Doesn't look like that gasket is in a rebuild set. Do the pumps ever give trouble?

It is east to check,I would, just because that's the way i work.I like to have all the specs on paper, so if i have an issue later, i can rule some things out. If there is an issue,now's the time to find out.I don't think they are all that problematic, though.

2) The chain looks new, and I can't detect any slop. It's measures longer than 6.21" if you use the first method that I described. Or do I just replace it? $40, cheap insurance.

U need to split the cases to change this, so now is the time for a new Heavy duty chain. When u upgrade latter, u wont have to split.

3) My manual states that the carbon ridge at the top of the cylinder should not be removed if the original pistons and rings are being reused. Does this mean that I shouldn't hone the cylinders before I re-assemble? I would normally hone the cylinders on any other engine to break the glaze.

I would hone.

4) As I stated before, my clutch friction discs will need replacement, but I discovered extra plates in my clutch. Z-1e's website says 8 fiber discs and 7 steels for this bike. I have 10 fibers and 9 steels. Two of the steels are noticeably different than the other 7, but all of the fibers look the same. So is it 8 or 10? I never got to ride the bike, but the clutch actuation was quite stiff. could this be due to the four extra discs putting more preload on the springs?

It is 8 fibers.

10 would be the APE clutch kit.the fiber plates are thinner in the APE kit, to allow for more plates. these are popular for drag racing.I would go back to the 8 plate z1e pack. Also check the fingers on the basket that the plates ride on. make sure they dont have grooves worn in them from the thinner plates, fingers.
also check the baskets springs for a lot of play. if sloppy, get back to me for a resolution.
Stiff clutch actuation , could be due to springs,dirty, cable or actuator.
I have stock clutch, and springs in my kz1200.
I am not a guru,but have asked a lot of questions, and built a few motors. this is just my opinion.
Hope this helps.
Mark.

Thanks Mark. I just checked the basket and it looks fine. Just has normal witness marks from the clutch discs. No grooves. Not sure if the springs were sloppy or not. Its all apart now, and I was planning on ordering new springs anyway. I'm going with a stock 8 plate clutch from z1e.