TOPIC:

Good suggestions thanks, i didnt think to check the butterflies to see if they were opening fully horizontal so i will check that next, if they are not how would i adjust them? via the carb syncing bolts perhaps? .

The bike has indeed got the exhaust recycling emissions tubing mess with a one way air valve thingey that sits between the coils. i was thinking of getting rid of that stuff, i did put some fresh hoses and clips on because i had some new stuff spare. is it safe to just take it all off and cap the vacuum plugs and outlets on top of the rocker cover without causing any further issues?

Timing is something ie never done on any bike so i will get my manual out and give it a go, cant be that hard i hope?!
Will check wiring loom tomoroow for any unusual stuff too.

All cylinders seem to be firing straight from start up, i briefly tapped each downpipe and they get bloody hot quickly so must be firing ok!

I took the bike out for a quick round the block again today and i had to turn the fuel screw out another turn to 3 turns and it ran a bit better but still not higher than half the rev counter, it was a bit lumpy when i throttled it from pull away after giving it some too.

Cheers

I would get rid of that emission tubing stuff. We never had that crap in Canada so I don't have direct experience with it but many members here have reported problems with it.
You can run a hose from one side of the valve cover to the other, plug the airbox hole and and put vacuum caps on all but the carb nipple used for the vacuum on the petcock or link the unused nipples. Do a search here. Patton has many times posted and excellent diagram on what to do.
that stuff could be a major source of your problem

good luck

JR the high price for the diaphragm here includes the slide as well ($200 - $220 each) - still expensive.

That's one of the reasons I don't like CV carbs. Always has been.

Mine get treated like they are crystal - just checking out prices and availabilty for future.
I have 7 real good spare diaphragms - learnt my lesson with one many years ago.

My 73 Honda CL 350 had them. That was my 2nd real motorcycle. I never understood why they didn't just clip on. Back then, if you wanted to ride, you had to cough up the money. Back then I was making $3.25 hr as a line brazer making wheel chairs.

Zephyrrider wrote: JR the high price for the diaphragm here includes the slide as well ($200 - $220 each) - still expensive.

I hear ya Zephyrrider.
I think the genuine kawasaki part is about the same $ here. Hope I never need them. If the only option wss 4 at that price then I would be seriously thinking of either another complete set of carbs or just parting out the entire beast and putting the money into something else.

How about some used Mikuni flat slide 34 VM's? Never have that problem again.

JR If i had to buy 4 of them at about $800 i would be getting a set of Keihin 29 mm CR Specials from PJ 's in Oregon for @$770 delivered.There are things i buy genuine because as you know they are some parts you just cant get anywhere else.(as far as i know anyway).Standard carbs for mine are around the $2000 - madness.And if you assembled some from individual parts maybe twice that (not positive but have checked out a lot of the oem part prices). Steve thats a nice low humidity spot you have there. You are right about cities - i will avoid the capital city of this state happily for the rest of my life and it is tiny compared to LA - Brisbane has a nearly a million i think and LA has more than this country.Best part of any city is the way out i reckon .

Yeah, it's good to be away from all that chaos. Trouble was, in the 70/80"s you still had to go there to get anything of any importance. Slowly progress crept in with all it's problems and crime. Back then, one car an hour would pass by if you were lucky. I long for those days now.
Steve

im not keen on cities either, although i have a mate who used to ride who lives in Essex which is near to London and we used to go up town for rides through the landmarks at night when the traffic was low, good fun on the bike's

I took the Emissions tubing off and ran hoses between the nipples, ive ordered some proper plugs for them. plugged up the air hole in the air box too but hasnt made a lot of difference. I concocted a little test to see if there might be an air leak from somewhere unexpected by stuffing a bit of rag down the air filter to restrict the air flow a little, My thinking being that if there was air leaking from somewhere else it may make it run a little better due to less leanness... but it didn't, it just ran really bad so im thinking its definately still to do with the carbs. i did go fill her up with a bit of gas, and on the way home i opened the fuel cap to test the vacuum, it did seem to make a bit of difference and then just went back to the way it was before so not sure what that would mean? overall the bike still hesitates and runs kinda lumpy though and still doesnt rev up much. im gonna leave the bike be for a few days over xmas and then get back on to pulling the carbs 'again' afterwards so ill give the slides a good check over as you guys have mentioned and check that those butterflies are opening all the way too.
Cheers

Best idea giving it a break for a couple of days. You sound very patient and persistent - that will help.
Were you able to find any extra info / diagrams on net. I have a 1980 H model parts pdf if that would be of any use.