TOPIC:

My 33's have 2.0 (leaner still) and I have #70 pilots and 125 mains in there now. Mik calls for much smaller pilots for the Kaw. It wouldn't even start with small jets in there. They call for a 1.5 slide. Kinda tells you what the pilots do Eh? It runs a little rich on the bottom but not enough to foul or wash out the rings and I'm working on that here and there.
My guess would be #20 pilots and 125 mains. Cheaper than buying 4 1.5 slides. You need a filter. I have two.
Steve

Well I have started tear down. The cps on the forks will not depress and I am stuck there. Fluid drained from one was very old and nasty. Had em back in the triple tree and no budge. Any ideas? Impact on the lower allen also did not work to free the innards. Might end up being a job for the shop. I figure I can do it with some tips so please comment.

Front twin discs were completed melted. Al rubber disintegrated. They cam apart fine and I figure to take the lines to hose shop for duplication. Will not reuse. Old MC completely fudged, will replace. Mirrors are trash, not even worth of paint. All the switch gear and handlebar pieces can be rehabbed. Wiring was all good there. I will grease the tapered roller bearings in the stem soon. The front brake pistons are pitted.



Would you use these in a rebuild?

Onward, a lot more to go. Rear end off, engine on the stand etc. More to come.``

Personally I would replace those pistons. They are pretty reasonable for new ones and while you have the calipers apart makes sense to sort them.

Local machine shop says they can turn em out of SS so I will get an estimate next week. Online these pistons (probably back brake needed too) and seal kits get to the $350 mark. If the shop can do it cheaper great, the seal kits (everything is needed as it was melted) run $100 plus by themselves.

Also am I missing something with the forks? The manual says it is the depress and spring top cap (yes the rubber cap is off ), but I cannot get em to budge. Would you heat a fork tube?
BTW way the surfaces are real nice on the tubes no pits or rust. Any help appreciated. R

Well it helps when u unscrew the tops. Cleaned and new seals in place. Oil in tomorrow. More to come, R

Okay, so I have diassembled the bike. New fork seals and oil (I had to accomplish something ). There is a lot of odd PO BS. Theaded SAE rod for front upper engine mount, RTV on the rotor cover (all of em probably), broken rear fender mounts with bigger bolts jammed in, broken starter bolt (starter mounted and unabe to removed, it goes on and on. Question - The starter wascranking fine, can it stay in there with one bolt? Thank goodness for kickstarter. Otherwise things came apart as expected. It was just easier to pull the rear unit when disconnecting the driver shaft. WIthout unit removal it kept wanting to hookup when the engine was pulling out. A few pics.

Hello all, I moved further into disassembly tonight. Head is off and block removed. With the broken starter bolt there is no way to split the cases without fixing that (two case bolt under the starter. Not sure a split is needed anyway. It looks clean in there and no adverse rod play or signs of wear that I can see. Pistons and rings look fine, the gap measures out and they are in spec. There is some cylinder bore scoring but not bad, I think a rehone will be fine. The guide rollers look somewhat worn but not sure if they need to be replaced. Probably should while there. All the rubber dampers were hard as porcelain. I cannot get the clutch cover off for the life of me, There is no decent place to tap and I have a suction cup and slide hammer on it with nor results. Any ideas? The clutch was fine and it ran thru all gears so maybe I will just button up. Anyway lots to go. Things will slow down some as I have some travelling ahead for both pleasure and business. Some pics.

You should take the starter out and fix the bolt. Replace the rollers with Liska's and the rubber ones. Z1E has them. You won't regret it.
Steve

Any thoughts on how to get the starter out? The bolt that is sheared off is still in the starter body. The starter doesn't budge and can't be removed. R

It's just the head that's sheared off?
Steve

I put a gauge in the hole and compared on the other bolt. It would seem that abut 6mm of thread is above the mating surface in the body of the starter. It tried gentle persuasion but no luck. I did not want to bugger up the thru hole gear end. i suppose I could take the case to a machine shop, but it's freaking heavy with the tranny and crank still in Any ideas on how to get the dang clutch cover off? All bolts are out and it's stuck as a MFKR. I tried a slide hammer with suction cup. Getting good force before it slides off from 5-10 bangs. R

So the bolt is sheared 6mm above the case. I'd buy a good drill bit that fits the hole and drill until I could remove the starter. You should be able to leave a little of the threads showing so you can grab the bolt with vice grips and turn it. I fi you go flush then you'll have to drill and extract the bolt later. One good thing about doing it this way, you'll have the bolt cut centered. Rather than drilling and useing a extractor (they often break), I will drill the bolt body leaving the threads. Then I will "chase" out the threads with a tap. If I mung it up I will install a Heli Coil.
The clutch cover on the right hand side right? Might have been put on there with Permatex. I'd bop around the edges with a rubber mallet or lead hammer.If that don't work I've been known to use a wide carpenter's wood chisel to split the gasket going around little by little until it's loose. All the bolts are out right?
Steve