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A wire wheel on the bench grinder is a common method to clean the carbon from engine valves. I'd soak them for a couple of days in carb dip to soften the crud though. Obviously, you want to use the softest wheel that will do the job for concern over pitting the metal with the wheel.

The seals in the transmission cover are often a source of leakage. You might want to replace them all if you aren't already planning to do so.

Hello all,

The cases are split and I now have access to the main crank seals. The part had obvious wear and failure. A couple of observations.
1. There are a lot of crankcase bolts. If you don't get em all the case won't come apart.
2. 35yo knock pins are pretty stuck on there.
3. Disassembly is always easier than assembly.
4. I got a lot of cleaning and prep to do with each upcoming phase of assembly.
5. Nothing broke or unexpected.
I will have a video up in awhile of the split. I pull some pics out and post em when available.

A couple of questions for any one that knows.
1. Secondary shaft installation. Manual says to pull oil pump gear, reinstall right side bearing that came out with the sfat and then push gear back on. Can I shortcut and drive the bearing on with the gear in place? I assume the shaft could be at peril this way bit wonder if it's been done.

2. What is best way to clean crankcase halves, threads and hardware? The hardware had either dried sealer or oxidation, but I know it needs cleaning.

I am really gonna be able say I have touched every bolt on this one. R

Your talking the primary shaft with the starter clutch assembly in the center right? I tapped mine out and back in while leaving the gear on and was told by a few others (that you can trust) (before I tryed it) that they did too......... bearing goes out and in nice and easy........ I used a one edged razor blade for the flat surfaces (go easy though to not mark it up) .... hit most of my bolts with steel wool but sure there are better ways out there........ I have a Harbor freight buffer now that would a got em nicer.

Thinking but not sure that your 550 has the same starter clutch set up ...... if so at least replace the springs, rollers, and pins .... the gear is recommended too since you have it apart..... search it ..... lot a folks with this problem on here.

I recently had my cylinders and head cleaned by vapor blasting. The results were amazing, its tough enough to remove carbon and grease/gasket but gentle enough to not remove any material and can be used on threads and even plastic parts. And because it uses detergent/water to apply the media, it doesn't inbed, but rather flows over and created a surface finish. Id highly recommend seeing if anyone local to you uses this media cleaning. If its not an option. I find that white vinegar works good to soak nuts bolts or the entire crankcase and then scrub with a brass brush.

What did the water blast cost?

R

It will take a while to fully process. It's 1080p in a half hour or so.

Can you give us pics of the case seams left and right?
Steve

I split the cases with the engine sitting up side down. That way the shift forks and other items can stay in place. I wanted to have a look at the side of the cases. You my not have had to remove the secondary shaft. Might as well check out the oil pump while you're in there and inspect the shifting dogs as well.
Steve

Howdy, I think the small fours are a bit different than the big ones. On the 550 there is no easy way to get the crank loose without taking the oil pump 2nd shaft out. It's out.

There may have been enough play with the shaft in, but not enough to get a good/proper install on the crank seals. The 550 crank has no bearing cap, it's all integral to the cases. I don't think the crank journals would have cleared lifting it out a bit and if so, the crank then would flopping around when I had to take the pump and shaft out anyway,

Also need bare cases for paint stripping.

Tranny looks good, seals there look good, but I may replace em anyway while its open. Gotta pull the rotor still for access to the left side crank seal which looks to be in similar decayed condition.

R

I don't think that's a seal. It's a damper/spacer. They come in different thicknesses. Check your book. Is one in your seal kit? Replacing all the seals is the prudent thing to do.
Steve

I have the full top end. Some of the bottom end stuff is obscure, I could not find a full engine kit with bottom end stuff too. The bottom end has some odd ball orings as well so they need to be Kaw parts. Stuff on order. Assembly will be meticulous and slow !

For now lotsa clean up and I am gonna strip the external paint. Will see if I like bare aluminum or shoot it black when the weather permits better painting conditions.

Going fishing today !

R