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Yes but be careful though.
Steve

They often leak when put back into service after sitting for a long time, I've had it happen to a few of the old Kaws that I've resurrected. Usually it's the top end gaskets that spring a leak in the first few hours of running. You've spent a lot of time and effort to get as far as you've gotten with this project, and my suggestion would be to do the top end gaskets, o-rings, and valve seals while you have the motor out. And you can do the paint job that you mention above. Then you're done, and you'll have a solid 3500 mi bike that will go many thousands of trouble free miles. It would really be a bummer to pull the motor to do that crank seal, and then have to pull it again after you ride it a few times.

Sound advice thanks. Gonna try sealer for now short term and run her some, maybe sell. I am curious about the split, never done a kz before. Vulcan v twin yes, but this will be interesting. R

Well I put the sealer on and it is slowed but still leaking. Just a drop or two. I put in straight SAE30 last week and had quite a bit of clutch slippage. The slip was at full power in 3rd and up 7-8k rpm plus. It didn't slip on my last ride, only thing different is the oil. Still on the fence between splitting case or selling it for what I can get for it. It was fun ti ride even in the 34 degree temps today. More to come. R

It's possible it will quit when it gets hot and run for a while. Be patient. It will warm up soon, then you can decide if it will quit or work on it.
Steve

Ya, it was cold.

Everything shrinks when it's cold. That's why I didn't like going skinny dipping.
Steve

If the oil is a little over-full, that can cause a little clutch slippage.

Hi all. I was wondering if the stock mirror are adjustable? I am used to mirrors having an adjustable stem nut to get just the right angle. Either mine are seized, rusted or they do not adjust. before I go cromagnom on them what says ye? Should the stem nut move? Also the old lady said "I don't care what you do with that *^&*ing bike, if it's a hobby and you like it than do what ya gonna do!" That's why I love this woman, 25 years married in April.

PS the K&L MC 25 and gaskets and seals are on the way.

Happy Motoring

R

Soak them with penetrating oil. A lucky man being with a woman for that long and still be able to have what he wants.
Steve

Okay so, organizing the process. I am open to any tips folks may have.

The operation will include:

1. Full top end refresh with all gaskets, o-rings, valve lap, cylinder hone, and valve adjustment..
At 3500 miles I can't imagine rings or pistons being an issue.

2. Partial bottom end refresh with R&R main crank oil seals as the main objective as this is where it leaks now, and all other gaskets and oil seals. push rod, shift rod, primary main oil seal Take bottom case to machine shop to fix ignition cover bolt hole with welding and retapping.

3. Engine exterior clean and paint/polish.

4. Frame clean and paint if necessary, I may be able to patch use some of the scars easily.

I will be Kroiling all fasteners well in advance of disassembly.

Yank the top end and covers on the frame to lighten the engine for easier removal?

Anything else desirable?

All input appreciated.

R

Maybe 30 to 50% more $ than you figured on.