TOPIC:

Somethin tells me this may not be good for a wet clutch?

R

On the 650/750 engines that seal has a lip on the OD that engages with a matching groove in the cases. It may be possible to remove the lip but you are on shaky ground with trying to change the seal on an assembled engine. If it comes to that you may want to try loosening some of the case screws in the general area to get a smig of extra room.

Better check your crankcase vent to make sure it's open. If the vent is blocked pressure will build up in the crankcase and push oil out through seals like you are experiencing.

Thanks Ed. Breather is good. What do ya think absent removal, sealer? R

I wouldn't.
Steve

rrsmsw9999 wrote: Somethin tells me this may not be good for a wet clutch?

R

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Right after I did my top end I started felling guilty about not splitting the case and doing new seals..... I was using Valvoline 10/40 for breakin and had a new clutch that I throw in after breakin and switching to bike Valvoline ..... so I tryed some seal stop leak for the first and 2 oil change and experianced clutch slippage for the first time...... thinkin this did it so I don't know if I would or not.... clutch was old and so were springs but still

I used some in my truck 20 years ago. Rear main seal, Fords are notorious for it. Didn't work, maybe made it worse. Think about this, if it makes the seal swell and after a time they harden back up and shrink again, what's happening to the valve guide seals and other rubber parts not to mention the clutch? Tune up in a can? BS
Steve

Can just the bottom case half be removed after the engine is out of frame. There is no need to remove the crank, not sure if design allows access to pulling the bottom case only?

R

You can if you make sure to get the top bolts on the case. I changed my tranny that way. Most of the crank bolts go through the case bottom. You might have to loosen the rest of them too then re-torque them all. Might as well get a seal kit.
Steve

Yep. Looked at bottom end disassembly. Any tricks if I stay with bottom end off only. Certainly a stand would be helpful. R

I had mine on blocks. Be sure you get all the little bolts on the top or it will make for one really FKed up day.
Steve

swest wrote: I had mine on blocks. Be sure you get all the little bolts on the top or it will make for one really FKed up day.
Steve

+1
Since the seal has lips, it seems to me that the mains will have to be loosened enough to drop th crank enough to allow the lips to clear the case upper half.

Tensioner out enough slack to do it? R