TOPIC:

swest wrote: Get a new grommet. Major source of leaks. They're cheap. I wouldn't soak it in anything. It's where the wires go through that's the problem.
Steve

*sigh*

Ordered. Thanks Steve.

N.

I always had oil on my left foot. You won't be sorry.
Steve

I have a brew of wintergreen oil I will soak that in. That ought to renew it pretty well.[/quote]

Nils: explain this wintergreen oil? Is it some sort on mint extract or mentholatum?
Steve is right,they are cheap, the rubber grommet. But have patience, the wires are brittal. (no idea how to spell britel? )
They are all AC current coming off the stator, the same color yellow. the cloth casing is always cracking with the old originals.
How do you do it Steve?

I've done it two ways. Cut and solder them inside (rough) or cut outside under the sprocket cover.(easier) If the woven shielding is still intact. I put them through the grommet cleaned with carb cleaner and saturated with crazy glue to seal up the threads. The new grommet is fatter than the opening so when it is tightened down, it becomes like a compression fitting on the wires. I also use High Temp Copper silicon to fill the channel on the outside. No leaks.
Steve

z1kzonly wrote: I have a brew of wintergreen oil I will soak that in. That ought to renew it pretty well.
Nils: explain this wintergreen oil? Is it some sort on mint extract or mentholatum?
Steve is right,they are cheap, the rubber grommet. But have patience, the wires are brittal. (no idea how to spell britel? )
They are all AC current coming off the stator, the same color yellow. the cloth casing is always cracking with the old originals.
How do you do it Steve?

Check this out. Awesome technique, happy to share it with you guys.

www.cbxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=8753

Yo men,

Forgive me re-asking, but what are your thoughts about the copper vs regular gaskets for this engine? Recall that I have high compression pistons in there as it is.

N.

I was planning on going copper on my build knowing I would be doing the valves soon. I was talked out of it by ROB. He said it will weep. We've used them for years but I bought the two piece instead. Leaked the first 6 months. I used a early Z1 fiber gasket knowing it was too small when I did my valves but it was cheap and I didn't have much money. It worked. This last time I bought a 72mm one piece fiber gasket and it works great. Again money was a issue and it was on sale. I am gathering parts so when I put in my 903 crank, I will use a COPPER gasket.I will use spray copper gasket seal and do what I wanted to do in the beginning. Thinking back on all the time and MONEY I spent listening to a SALESMAN pisses me off. They have been around as long as I remember. If done correctly they work well and can be reused. Miller had one in his CB 750/1015 overbore and was hard to beat. His Hondadavidson chopper flew and didn't leak. They had high pressure oiling systems, we don't.
Steve

Nils, thanks for that interesting info on "wintergreen oil" I wish I had know about this for the past 20 years!
Now, about head gasket sealing, 1 piece copper is good.
Now 1 word! "HYLOMAR " I am sure you have heard of this stuff. Plenty of google info.
I started using this stuff way back. The late great "Elmer Trett" Top Fuel Nitro racer told us once that Hylomar was the only stuff that would keep his engines' heads sealed up. Years ago permatex had it in the USA, now they have brands with their name on it in European markets. Stuff is a bit pricey, but it is non-hardening, stays pliable, holds up to extreme pressures. I liked the aerosol, easier to use.
Or I would smear it out of tube and use a credit type card as a spreader.
My opinion is this stuff is the best for sealing higher compression, high performance engines.

Where can you get it?
Steve

swest wrote: I've done it two ways. Cut and solder them inside (rough) or cut outside under the sprocket cover.(easier) If the woven shielding is still intact. I put them through the grommet cleaned with carb cleaner and saturated with crazy glue to seal up the threads. The new grommet is fatter than the opening so when it is tightened down, it becomes like a compression fitting on the wires. I also use High Temp Copper silicon to fill the channel on the outside. No leaks.
Steve

Steve, I'm not that computer savvy , maybe you can find it
(4TheKZ1000) has a nice right up with lots of step by step pictures on how he replaced his stator cover grommet , that might be of some help
Pete

Great lead, thank you. FYI, not sure why this site has no search function, but Google works better anyway. This is the search string you'd use to search this site using Google, searching for that info. Look at how it's constructed and try it yourself with other terms and you'll get the hang of it:

site:kzrider.com stator grommet 4thekz1000

I'll read those threads later, but I'm sure i'll find it now, thanks again!

N.

Here's that thread.

kzrider.com/forum/4-electrical/578661-dyno-stator-cover-issue

Not sure I'm going that route, but it's good food for thought.

N.