TOPIC:

531blackbanshee wrote: as for the bucket.
i would mic the o.d. of the bucket and measure the bore and find out which one doesn't measure out like the other buckets and bores.
then depending on what i found would determine my next step.
hth,

leon

I don't think I can do that Leon, I have a micrometer but my bore gauge won't go that small. I'm gonna disassemble that valve and clean and polish that bore and the bucket again, lube and retry. I tend to doubt it's going to cause me any grief personally, but I would be a little happier with it if it were as free as the others.

pete greek1 wrote: I still have my original clutch & springs in my 1980 LTD 1000, with a 1075 kit, RS 34s ported head & Dyna 2000, although I don't beat on my bikes like I used to when I was younger
most aftermarket clutches wont last as long as OEM clutches
I've heard Barnett clutches & springs are pretty good quality if you want an aftermarket
www.barnettclutches.com/
Pete

I think I will go this way too then. I have installed heavier springs in the past and regretted it. With new fibers and refreshed steels this ought to be primo. Thanks for the thoughts men.

swest wrote: That's a early style pump. It's the good kind. I have one but it was too rusty. Take the gasket off gently and show a pic. That's the part I sanded with # 600 paper on a sheet of glass. My oil pressure is great, maybe too good.
Steve

Thank you for pointing that out. I did have to hunt up a gasket for an earlier Z - the later pump that should be in my bike is different as you pointed out and that gasket would not have worked.

The flat cover is what I'm talking about. You can sand out the scratches and bring the pressure up. It says so in the book. There is also a thinner gasket but they are hard to come by.
Steve

swest wrote: That's a early style pump. It's the good kind. I have one but it was too rusty. Take the gasket off gently and show a pic. That's the part I sanded with # 600 paper on a sheet of glass. My oil pressure is great, maybe too good.
Steve

I did the same thing on the oil pump end plate on the AMC 360 V8 I'm rebuilding for my CJ5 Jeep. I used a sheet of plate glass and grinding paste, it took along time to get it back in spec and remove the scoring after 150k miles, as the rotors run straight against the alloy. On those if there's too much gap at the end of the rotors, oil escapes there and you lose a lot of oil pressure at idle, I'd imagine the same here.

NobleHops wrote:

650ed wrote: Here's his website:

www.cavanaughracing.com/

Thanks man! And to you as well Dave.

Larry might be the nicest guy in the world.

I called, got his machine, started feeling sheepish about asking him to call me back so I could waste his time and not give him work. So I didn't leave a message. So when he got his arms out of whatever he was doing, he saw the missed call, and called me back. Spent 15 or more minutes answering my questions and discussing what I was seeing, gave me strategies for addressing it, then a fantastic tutorial on reassembling the head and cams, torquing and re-torquing the head, and much more. SUPER knowledgeable, SUPER nice, great to talk to.

WRT this specific issue, he suggested removing the offending valve and just running around the bore with some 1000-grit wet-dry, cleaning, oiling, etc Said as long as the shim is freely spinning on the bucket it's less critical, but yes, he'd prefer to see it spinning freely in there. But not to lose any sleep over it either.

Thanks again for the pointers, he's one I won't lose track of moving forward.

N.

Glad it worked out so well
Nils
A lot of good intentioned folks here give advise freely
But you must understand on some issues , like cylinder head work the list shrinks to only a very few who are real experts
on the subject and smart money says ask a real deal expert like Larry C.
Just my 2cts
Dave

I have used mixed and used lifter buckets for years. I always would glass bead them first. Then you can really see them.
Here is a set out of a street turbo engine. Talk about heat! They are blue! under neath. Those I won't use.
Plus a polish after the glass bead will show any imperfections.
Fine wet sand paper and light oil will help them clean up also.
As we all know these engines were built so good with exacting tolerances. Mixing parts was not too much of a concern for me, but mine were always street racers or drag bikes. I never had a long mile stretch on a road driver.
Then I like this Dri-Moly film. I would spray it, looks like primer it is Molybdenum Disulfide, particles that burnish into the metal surfaces.
withstands heat up to +1050 F. I also coat cams and piston skirts. It is real exspensive. But when I ordered it for the company, 1 always never left the receiving dock Ended up in my lunch box.
Back to the oil pump. Pain to get apart, super red loc-tite.
Here is a paper thin gasket. If anyone wants it? PM me and I'll mail it to you. I won't ever need it
But that sure is one nice rebuild Everything's rebuilt! Keep up the good work.
Here's a couple of pics.

z1kzonly wrote: I have used mixed and used lifter buckets for years. I always would glass bead them first. Then you can really see them.
Here is a set out of a street turbo engine. Talk about heat! They are blue! under neath. Those I won't use.
Plus a polish after the glass bead will show any imperfections.
Fine wet sand paper and light oil will help them clean up also.
As we all know these engines were built so good with exacting tolerances. Mixing parts was not too much of a concern for me, but mine were always street racers or drag bikes. I never had a long mile stretch on a road driver.
Then I like this Dri-Moly film. I would spray it, looks like primer it is Molybdenum Disulfide, particles that burnish into the metal surfaces.
withstands heat up to +1050 F. I also coat cams and piston skirts. It is real exspensive. But when I ordered it for the company, 1 always never left the receiving dock Ended up in my lunch box.
Back to the oil pump. Pain to get apart, super red loc-tite.
Here is a paper thin gasket. If anyone wants it? PM me and I'll mail it to you. I won't ever need it
But that sure is one nice rebuild Everything's rebuilt! Keep up the good work.
Here's a couple of pics.

Rats, I already did order one, but I got it cheap. I have another Z1 to do next year, but it is also a 75 and odds are it has the later pump, so I won't take and hoard that, much as I am tempted to . But if I tear or mess up mine, I will come a knockin'. THANK YOU for the generous offer.

Hoy hoy lads,

Quick update for now. Z1E is still down, punted this morning and ordered my orings and whatnot elsewhere. Really like those guys, looking forward to them being on the air again soon.

Sorry no photos for the moment, camera at the shop but I am home. Will update with those later.

Got my gasket in for the oil pump, and so put that back together. Lapped that flat cover on a sheet of glass with some 320 and then 1000 grit and a few drops of 3-in-1 oil and that came out great. Removed all the scoring from that end, left it super smooth and flat.

Put it all back together, twice, because I wasn't paying attention and put the drive gear in backwards the first time...

...with a few drops of oil on the gears, locktited the screws, straightened out and installed a slightly bockety pickup screen...

...good to go. It now turns really smoothly where before it was a little rough.

Got my new stock clutch springs in, so next up is the clutch pack. Current plan, subject to your advice, is to break the stack down, clean and then beadblast the steels, and soak the fibers in motor oil overnight, then reassemble with the new springs.

A cursory inspection of the fingers on the clutch basket showed no notchiness or grooving, but even so, would I be wise to go over those edges with some abrasive or something? Or leave it be? Any other generalized assembly advice?

Last conundrum for the moment: I am stuffed finding a 70mm two-piece gasket. Closest I have found is a 71mm copper gasket (.043), which seems like it ought to work fine on my 70mm bores, but I am a little concerned about raising the compression even more than I am already with the high comp pistons. Your man Jaquish does not seem to have what I need either Steve. Could I simply carefully cut apart a one-piece gasket instead?

Anyone got a good lead on a supplier for this gasket? Back to my Googling...

N.

He should have the two piece gaskets. I use the one piece so I don't have a O ring that WILL fail eventually. 71mm is fine. What are the stacks you're talking about?
Steve

swest wrote: He should have the two piece gaskets. I use the one piece so I don't have a O ring that WILL fail eventually. 71mm is fine. What are the stacks you're talking about?
Steve

The stack of steels and fiber plates in the clutch.