TOPIC:

Did you buy a cap and make a tool out of it? I've got a couple of old Mag lights laying around and will make you one if that didn't work.
I guess you decided not to go with the extensions then.
Steve

I'm sure you're going to like the 34's once you get them dialed in,
Pete

swest wrote: Did you buy a cap and make a tool out of it? I've got a couple of old Mag lights laying around and will make you one if that didn't work.
I guess you decided not to go with the extensions then.
Steve

No I just adjusted them per Mikuni tuning manual, +/- 17mm off of gasket surface. I will buy a cap and make a correct tool if they act like they are starving for fuel under WOT.

I got most of my Acewell wired in tonight. Should be able to make a shake down run tomorrow after work.

pete greek1 wrote: I'm sure you're going to like the 34's once you get them dialed in,
Pete

I don't doubt that at all. I was going to put the BS34's on for a bit more fuel economy and all around riding for longer trips. My father unfortunately is unable to ride any more and asked me if I wanted his BMW RS touring bike. How could I say no to that, so I will pick it up in MT this year. So now I will have a romp around bike and a distance bike.

531blackbanshee wrote: congrats on getting the carbs close to dialed in

...
nice score on the ol" shockaroos as well
leon

Thanks Leon. Looking forward to the shocks. Hoping I can still get parts for them as they are rebuildable.

I think Koni still make shocks for cars and trucks but they stopped with bikes a few years ago.Somebody started them up again under the name IKON.Theyre probably your best bet for spares.
www.ikonsuspension.com/
Good shocks apparently.

Took a shake down ride today/tonight ran fantastic. Super happy with the RS34's. They ran great all the way through all RIM ranges. Pipe is loud as hell so I will have to start wearing ear plugs. Back brake is not working the way it should, I will try re-bleeding to correct the problem.

New Acewell gauge works great but my speed is off a bit so I will have to re-read the manual and find out what went wrong. I will most likely have to play with the tire circumstance until I get it right.

Things that concern me:
1. Oil pressure gauge works while idling on cold start up. After the bike gets to operating temperature it stops working. Makes me wonder if I have enough oil in it with the oil cooler. I have it filled to the top of the site glass. I an running 10-40 Rotella, perhaps I need to run 20-50.
2. The clutch still slips when I wap the throttle when I'm on the freeway running 5K RPMs. I replaced the couch and springs when I rebuilt the motor.
3. The bike gives me a vibration around 80MPH perhaps it is incorrectly balanced tires. I took them to a shop that does mostly dirt bikes so that may be the issue.

Other than that I'm am pretty damn happy with the performance. I don't have the the drop triple on it yet but I did raise the rear shocks to maximum height. Speaking of shocks, I got F'd by the guy I bought the Koni Shock from. That's right, singular. Went to double check the ad to see if I read it wrong and the post is go. $200 for one flipping shock I am Uber angry. Still haven't calmed down enough to contact him.

You might have to go through the pump. Is the shock guy a member?
Steve

swest wrote: You might have to go through the pump. Is the shock guy a member?
Steve

I pulled the pump at one point in time everything looked okay but I'm not sure what I was looking for. I was really just looking for blockage or obviously worn parts.

No I do not believe he is a member here. I bought it through The KZ Market on Facebook. Have had really good luck till now.

Don't KZs run 15 psi cold oil pressure and around 2-3 when warm? I knew that pipe was going to be way loud. Not big enough to put a real baffle in it.
What did the clutch basket look like when you put the clutch in? Ridges and wear will cause one to slip.
Sux about the shock

BlackZ1R wrote: Don't KZs run 15 psi cold oil pressure and around 2-3 when warm? I knew that pipe was going to be way loud. Not big enough to put a real baffle in it.
What did the clutch basket look like when you put the clutch in? Ridges and wear will cause one to slip.
Sux about the shock

I think you are right about the PSI but it is a 15 PSI gauge and it's sitting at 0 when warm. Freaks me out because it's the first bike I have built and I made a lot of changes all at once so every little thing makes me boubt myself.
As for the clutch basket, I did not look at it that hard as the bike only had 25K or less when I rebuilt it. It did this before I rebuilt it so I always thought it was the disk and the springs were just aged as the bike had been sitting since 1986 when I purchased it in 2012. I will have to dig back into it I suppose. Is there a better after market basket I can put in it? I guess I could also put the APE springs in but will have to make sure I get the hydraulic clutch working for that.
Thanks for the feed back.

Hi Jon
Glad you got out on the bike.
15 cold is normal as is bouncing off zero at a warmed up idle. Should show 2 or 3 at speed once warmed up.ALL NORMAL
Flow, vs Pressure
When you take the plates out of the clutch you may be able to polish the basket fingers if not worn badly. I did this when I last went thru mine and got good results. More of a minor fine file and 400 grit polishing effect , than removing material so the plates done get hung up
Hope this helps
Dave