TOPIC:

You definitely want clearance between the actuator and the rod with a cable, so I don't see why you wouldn't want it with a hydraulic set up. There has to be enough slack for the clutch to engage fully....even the slightest pressure on the rod can cause clutch slippage. It's probably worth trying before tearing it down.

swest wrote: Jon, I thought you were going back to the cable for a while.
Steve

I am using the cable right now, it was slipping with the cable set up, I want it to work correctly with the cable before I try to switch to hydraulic. Sooooo. I took the clutch apart, Clearance on the clutch basket fingers was good so I left them alone. At first glance the metal discs looked good but in the sunlight I could see some slight varnishing, I used the orbital sander with 500 grit and gave both sides a once over, Cleaned them up, oiled everything and reinstalled, I have to say it made a noticeable difference on a trip around the block. Once the wife is off work I will take it for a longer ride. As always thank you for all the advice,

As for the hydraulic clutch I will most likely leave it until this summer when it is to hot to ride. I have been waiting so long now that all I want to do is enjoy the bike. Again thank you all for the advice

Know how you feel. I almost have everything I need for my swing arm mod. The sprocket is stuck in Fontana and I need to figure out how long the chain needs to be. The last thing I need is to tear it down and have it out of action even for a day. It has to be plug and play.
Steve

swest wrote: Know how you feel. I almost have everything I need for my swing arm mod. The sprocket is stuck in Fontana and I need to figure out how long the chain needs to be. The last thing I need is to tear it down and have it out of action even for a day. It has to be plug and play.
Steve

Hey Steve,

Just an FYI but if you know the right info you can already figure out your chain length by using this calculator, hope it helps you

www.rebelgears.com/chainlengthcalculator.html

Brett

Hey Kaw, have been watching your thread for a while and have been living through your build. I installed a hydraulic setup on my 900 and would not go back unless an emergency. Your clutch package only needs .080" of play to operate and you are pushing against your clutch springs when you pull on the lever through the piston in the slave. Like a brake caliper, once you use the clutch, the piston will travel from fluid push until there is no stroke left in the master. When the lever is released, the piston will be pushed back by the clutch springs until the fluid equalizes in the line at the return location of the master piston. Unlike a caliper that only uses rocking the action of the piston seal, most slave pistons have a spring mounted on the back to hold it from totally bottoming out in the housing. If you initially leave play between the slave piston and the actuator rod, as soon as you apply the clutch, the piston will take up any slack which to a very small degree will lower the fluid in your master cup. I would set up the rod length with the piston in the slave just recessed in the slave housing so the dirt and crap around that chain area does not tend to get any further into the slave than necessary.
Good luck with the balance of the build.
David

Kawboy74 wrote: Hey Kaw, have been watching your thread for a while and have been living through your build. I installed a hydraulic setup on my 900 and would not go back unless an emergency. Your clutch package only needs .080" of play to operate and you are pushing against your clutch springs when you pull on the lever through the piston in the slave. Like a brake caliper, once you use the clutch, the piston will travel from fluid push until there is no stroke left in the master. When the lever is released, the piston will be pushed back by the clutch springs until the fluid equalizes in the line at the return location of the master piston. Unlike a caliper that only uses rocking the action of the piston seal, most slave pistons have a spring mounted on the back to hold it from totally bottoming out in the housing. If you initially leave play between the slave piston and the actuator rod, as soon as you apply the clutch, the piston will take up any slack which to a very small degree will lower the fluid in your master cup. I would set up the rod length with the piston in the slave just recessed in the slave housing so the dirt and crap around that chain area does not tend to get any further into the slave than necessary.
Good luck with the balance of the build.
David

Fantastic info, thank you David. Out of curiosity, what slave cylinder did you use?

Good news is I finally got my new speedometer calibrated and the sanding of the steel plates fixed my slippage issue. Unfortunately the same thing as last time took place, timing fell off. My gut told me to put Lock-tight on that damn bolt and i didn't. Lesson learned. At least I was close enough to my brother's house to push it to his driveway. Should get it corrected tomorrow.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationi've been vocal about not being a fan of hyd.clutches in the past.it's down to the lack of feel for me,personal preference.

but as a machinist and fabricator i get into some stuff i wouldn't normally do for myself .

i currently have one such case of modding a pmfr outboard support to use a


i had to slot the mounting holes on the slave and bore the hole open to match the slave body but it was a straightforward deal.

here you can see the slotting that had to happen.


thanks to Kawboy74 for his information sharing.

leon

Glad to hear you're able to start riding the bike. Did you get some extensions for the forks or are you still waiting on some trees? Can you get some clips. Love to see them.
Steve

531Blackbanshee On my 74Z1 a friend supplied the parts but I think the slave was from an older Yamaha, maybe the FJ1100 and it only took a small amount of cutting to work it into the stock cover. If I have it off in the near future I will snap a picture and post it. On my current project, ooops, I used the PMFR outboard plate as a template and had a machinist friend fabricate a little more custom looking unit. To utilize the three bolt holes in the slave I bought, (not the same as the previous one) was the main reason for the different type and it also allowed me to rotate it to suit my slave and for bleeding. The plate is only 1/2" stock and the spacers can be made to suit sprocket widths and as the actuator rod is only 1/4" stock, any length can be made cheaply.
I will try and post a picture of the newer plate tomorrow night.

swest wrote: Glad to hear you're able to start riding the bike. Did you get some extensions for the forks or are you still waiting on some trees? Can you get some clips. Love to see them.
Steve

Still waiting on the triple. I told my brother he needed to get the design done so we could print it out to prototype. Once that is done in will pay someone to machine it so I can get them done.

I remember, gotta cost a bundle though. How's it running anyway?
Steve