TOPIC:

Bought a carb jet kit and normalized the jets from their previous drag racing life. I discovered what the thunder jet sizes are. I think I might need some smaller ones. They come in sizes ranging from 85-200.

Current specs as of now;

28 pilot
66 MJ
70 Air bleed
125 Thunder-jet #1
135 Thunder-jet #2
145 Thunder-jet #3

I fitted an adjustable main that fits in place of the float bowl drain plug.
Just fit the largest main jet and then screw in to weaken and out to richen.
Saves a few quid on buying different mains and gives many hours of fun playing with it.

zed1015 wrote: I fitted an adjustable main that fits in place of the float bowl drain plug.
Just fit the largest main jet and then screw in to weaken and out to richen.
Saves a few quid on buying different mains and gives many hours of fun playing with it.

While you are the fabrication master I am the carb master.

I needed the plathora of pilots and MJ's because I have the custom air bleed mod too so I needed extra main jets for the air bleed as well. Plus I have 3 adjustable secondary mains, that's what the thunderjets are for. Turn the dial on each one for more or less fuel. With this setup I will out perform the single circuit adjustable main. I dont mind changing the jetting on a single carbs setup.

Judging how this carb was jetted previously it was for a 1500cc harley drag bike. Where I am taking a bit of a shot in the dark is I don't know what the translation of the supercharger to the KZ is to increase of cc roughly to help with a better baseline to compare against all the harley builds. I can take a guess at 300cc since its a 30% increase over the 1000cc.

Also I am at 4500ft so I will be running leaner on top of that.

Man still working on getting the fibre glass parts ready for paint. They are ready now priming tomorrow. The lip on the seat looks good but man was it a lot of work. I am officially body filler and and sanding (sanded out) out!

I got the shock mounts from my buddy and was going to get them setup for welding from an aerospace welder. I'm going to be taking a guess at the shock placement. Basically I'm going to set the swing arm to be slightly lowered. I wish I knew how much the work performance shocks will sag. In the end I want the top of the swing arm to be parallel with the ground if possible. It looks more drag like that way, and I like it a little lower.

I also drilled the holes in the upper shock mounts to allow me to do the bolt extension trick.

Also decided to gloss the engine..I was weary of the protection of the matt black on its own.

LOOKS BAD ASS! I am going to do what you did for a headlight bracket. What is that exactly? Custom?

tucsonKZ1kP wrote: LOOKS BAD ASS! I am going to do what you did for a headlight bracket. What is that exactly? Custom?

They are from the UK. They are a bit $$$, got them off ebay, but they go waaaaay far out so have to drill new holes and cut the arms.

The mounts look good, but...I would have used a bull nose cutter to leave a fillet where the flat meets the clevis. Not so much a strength issue, but would prevent it from cracking from fatigue, especially since you're welding right adjacent to the clevis.

Alan

Haybus wrote: The mounts look good, but...I would have used a bull nose cutter to leave a fillet where the flat meets the clevis. Not so much a strength issue, but would prevent it from cracking from fatigue, especially since you're welding right adjacent to the clevis.

Alan

I got this thread going with the details on the questions on the angle; Others said the angle was no good..

kzrider.com/forum/5-chassis/584209-does-...angle-look-ok#584343

Yeah, I saw that. I'm speaking specifically about your right mount you had machined. You have a sharp corner where the clevis meets the extension you plan to weld to the swingarm. You have a bending moment because the load path is offset from the swingarm. While the size and thickness may take a great deal of load, it's getting hammered constantly during riding which can lead to fatigue failure. Sharp corners are bad for fatigue. A gusset underneath would help.

Haybus wrote: Yeah, I saw that. I'm speaking specifically about your right mount you had machined. You have a sharp corner where the clevis meets the extension you plan to weld to the swingarm. You have a bending moment because the load path is offset from the swingarm. While the size and thickness may take a great deal of load, it's getting hammered constantly during riding which can lead to fatigue failure. Sharp corners are bad for fatigue. A gusset underneath would help.

It's rounded on both sides. Are you sure you see it?

So I haven't updated in a couple weeks. Been getting ready for vacation and trying to squeeze in some painting. Got 2 coats of primer done. But had some bad luck. I broke the r1 fender and I had the bimota fender all primed and crushed it with the garage door. So that's 180 bucks down the tunes. So I said Fuck it and got a nice slim carbon fiber one for 180 shipped. I will just put white vinyl on it to simulate it being painted.

Now the good news. I Got a bunch of new goodies. And have 2 days off after I'm done relaxing in San Diego which is to finish the base coats and hopefully the clear coats. I will also get the swing arm shock seats welded. Should have a rolling chassis by the weekend.