TOPIC:

Thanks a bunch Larry. I'm thinking my tax refund might loosen up the budget a bit we'll see.

larrycavan wrote:

PLUMMEN wrote:

DoubleDub wrote:

Nelson wrote:

Seems odd that the bearing hole doesn't line up with the passage. Should I enlarge it to line up? Of course I'll probably be puttin in new bearings, but if those don't line up should I enlarge them?

Looks to me like it was swapped from another spot or another bike. I think those were specific to bike/location due to manufacturing methods?

thats what is commonly refered to as mass production!

More of a case of improper installation IMO. That bearing isn't all the way over where it belongs.

Oil pump looks like it's got a metal tag on it I have never seen that inside any 900 / 1000 motor. Might be fine but I'm thinking it was remanufactured or something. Obviously the top end was getting oil.

I'd shit can all those old cam chain rollers and pillow blocks. You're talking some $$$ but it IS the right thing to do. Cam chain too..... do the works and be done with it if you can raise the capital

You'll see budget racer throw that old junk right back in their motors. Who cares, it's only going 1/4 mile at a time and the truck's back at the other end of the track This is a street bike....'nother animal altogether

If all the cam bearings look like that, just lightly smooth them with a piece of 1000G paper. Then rinse and wipe with a paper towel. If you pull the valves out, clean everything up and put the cams in [oiled journal and bearings] & spin them to see if they spin nice and free.

ive never seen bearing halves in any kind of motor that mated oiling holes in block/head perfectly

I took the head apart today. Here's my hitech compressor.



heres cylinder 1 - note that I did a little bit of wire brushing on the combustion chambers before I thought of taking pics.

cyl 2



cyl 3




cyl 4

ports 1



ports 2



ports 3


ports 4

valves 1


valves 2


valves 3


valves 4

So I'm thinking this all looks pretty darn good. Perhaps all I need is some lapping and seals. Whattaya think? The visible groove on the intake valves is not even deep enough to catch a finger nail.

The 2 and 3 ex valves are whitish rather than black like 1 and 4. Is this heat related?

I haven't done any measuring or looked at the guides yet.

Remember this is a low budget stock rebuild for the street. However I am kinda watching for a deal on a used 1075 kit... so maybe.

Here's some valves cleaned up.

Your going about it the right way Nelson, I'm sure you won't regret it. You might want to check the resistance in your coils & ign. wiring just for peace of mind. Were the plugs all NGK B8ES, sharp bike by the way.

yes B8ES

Nelson wrote: valves 1

Attachment headvalves1.jpg not found

valves 2

Attachment headvalves2.jpg not found

color dif. Could be leaky seals and worn guides.

Liska makes solid roller and gear parts that are a little cheaper than the rubber .
the rubber provides shock absorption and is quieter.
Maybe Larry has an opinion on whether u need the rubber for a street ride. the liskas are more track oriented to keep the timing bang on.

Nelson, the white valves look like a lean condition on those two cylinders IMO. What did the plugs on those two cylinders look like? Used to be that properly tuned cylinders would produce a light tan exhaust valve and spark plug, but I believe that the addition of ethanol has altered that somewhat these days.

As for the valves, I would get them and the head cleaned up, then screw in your old plugs, and drop the valves back in the head. Then you can lay the head down with the combustion chambers facing up. Pour some fluid of your choice in each chamber and see if any leaking occurs.

EDIT: You'll have to get in touch with Larry directly if you want his opinion any more.