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pete greek1 wrote: Cant you put it in a bag & bungee cord it on the rear seat or sissy bar ?
Pete

Currently my bungie supply is quite low but overall adequate. I prefer to strap things on to the extent that they don't fall off the vehicle in the event of a rollover, so I'd be putting stuff on for 20 minutes figuring out how to strap it right. I spent a good 30 minutes figuring out how to strap my camera equipment to the sissy bar, I was really worried about that. I've been contemplating about a simple backpack but I heard they can be dangerous to the rider in a crash.

Nearly lost it this morning going to work. The ground was a little damp, and there's a strong S-curve about a mile from my house, under a railway bridge at a downward angle. Did the first left corner okay, as I straightened it out to prep for the right turn I did my usual goose of the brake as I was going too fast for it (tighter radius corner than the first) and I locked up my rear going into the corner and boy did the rear end wobble. Straightened it up and recovered in the incoming lane and made my way back into the right lane. Just thankful there wasn't any oncoming traffic....what a way to wake up in the morning. I was suprised that the seat moved from under my butt, that freaked me out more than anything I think. I don't panick during "oh shit" moments like this, it's more of a "meh".

Get use to braking before the turns and use the power as you go through them The only thing you have while in a turn is the throttle to get you out of trouble. Hit the brake and the bike stands up. When the roads are wet, the oil comes out of it and makes it slick. Black ice is a hazard too, especially on a bike.
Steve

swest wrote: Get use to braking before the turns and use the power as you go through them The only thing you have while in a turn is the throttle to get you out of trouble. Hit the brake and the bike stands up. When the roads are wet, the oil comes out of it and makes it slick. Black ice is a hazard too, especially on a bike.
Steve

Right; I was hitting the brake between the corners, during the transition from turning left to right turns and advoid braking during cornering. I didn't capitalize on the braking on my transition time and braked too long and into the start of the second corner when the trouble started. Because I was still going too fast for the second corner I put extra pressure on the brakes, causing my rear to lock up into a skid. The more I analyze what happened the more sense it makes.

Thing to keep in mind when taking a corner is not to unsettle the bike. Too fast a brake or to hard on the throttle in a turn and the bike will shift weight too fast form back to front or from front to back. This will transfer a greater amount of weight to only one wheel thereby causing the other wheel to have less traction. Not an issue if you are going straight, but trouble on a curve. Always do the majority of your braking before the curve and power out after the apex but with smooth throttle (this will actually shift the weight to the rear tire causing it have more bite).

It takes some getting use to for a new rider.
Steve

While I think cold riding is definitely an acquired taste, and everyone's idea of "cold" differs, I firmly believe every rider should do it from time to time. It keeps your skills current and is a good teaching time as tires, bikes and bodies don't react the same way as they do in the warm.

That said, 40 is about my limit but I will ride colder. It depends on my desire to ride and if the Benz is looking fun to drive that day (it never is). Cold riding gear can be $$$ also, I know this.

As far as taking work clothes to work...I simply leave a pair of shoes at work, a shirt/pants/etc. in case I need them. You take them on the day you drive the cage.

KZJOE900 wrote: Thing to keep in mind when taking a corner is not to unsettle the bike. Too fast a brake or to hard on the throttle in a turn and the bike will shift weight too fast form back to front or from front to back. This will transfer a greater amount of weight to only one wheel thereby causing the other wheel to have less traction. Not an issue if you are going straight, but trouble on a curve. Always do the majority of your braking before the curve and power out after the apex but with smooth throttle (this will actually shift the weight to the rear tire causing it have more bite).

Excellent advice Joe! I remember this concept from "Twist of the Wrist" on YouTube, which is a old motorcycle training video (full of bad acting lol) that has a lot of bits of more advanced stuff that you don't get from the general motorcycle class. It's tough to keep that stuff in mind when I'm riding, but I'm sure it'll fall into place as the years go by.

If anybody's interested here's a full version of "Twist of the Wrist":

If anything it's a good laugh at bad acting for you pro riders reading this, but who knows it could be a good refresh for those that haven't seen it.

So I've come to somewhat of a disappointing revelation in the last couple months. After about two or three weeks between startups the bike will become difficult to start for about oh say, 10 to 20 seconds of cranking. Which made me think....maybe the petcock is leaking and slowly draining into the carbs....flooding them....and making the engine difficult to turn over. If there's another possibility for the occasional difficulty of starting after sitting for 2+ weeks let me know, because I now have but one course of action on storing for winter: Weekly startups.

New plugs now. Drain the fuel for storage.
Steve

swest wrote: New plugs now. Drain the fuel for storage.
Steve

Well I just replaced the plugs remember, what, 4 months ago? And I thought draining all the fuel out of both the tank and the crabs did something bad; either promoting rust in the tank or gumminess in the carbs or something. If I drain everything though should I leave the gas cap open to let fumes out more easily?

Letting the fuel out of the crabs wouldn't be good for them. No letting the fuel out of the carbs should be good for them. I'd keep the tank sealed so it won't rust. The ethanol does promote moisture but having it in the tank can't be good ether. Now if you could fire her up once a week or so would be better keeping everything lubed and free. Your choice. The big mistake I made was dry starts. I knew better and it cost me my pistons. I just didn't think about it.
Steve