1/4 mile on the ole KZ!

Check out APE super pro filters ....... they are really nice for the money.

KZB2 650 wrote: Check out APE super pro filters ....... they are really nice for the money.

Those do look nice and for a good price, but there is almost no information on them. Do you know if they are like K&N filters and can be cleaned and re-oiled? Also for my bike they only sell the cone shaped filters. since I need more air flow I would think the oval filters from K&N would provide more air. Saving money is a good thing, but not if it sacrifices performance. I've got a problem and need solution, not more problems. I'll spend the money on K&N's if that is what it takes. Does anyone else here use the APE filters? If so how do you like them?

Yes you clean and oil em just like K and Ns ........ you can also clean and run em dry too which I have done but it only trays the big stuff...... (I have em oiled now) mine are pretty old now and have held up great and they came in the oval size back when I bought em for the smooth bores. Will admit now that I see they dropped the ovals in that size The K and Ns are a little nicer.

Won't let me edit this for some reason but anyway betting you will have a few telling you to leave the air box on (which is fine) ...... did you leave the filter in and only open up the top ?? Might have to do a little jetting if you change too but you probably already know that. Hoping this was the fix to your rough running too but it makes me wonder why it ran so good with the box on then not all of a sudden. Would be nice to see your next trip to the strip to see if you stayed the same or picked up a tenth too.

I had the top off at the track but not the snorkel. What I found in my case was that with one thing off (snorkel or air filter cover) it ran ok, but would sputter a little between 4-5k rpm. With both off it is smooth in all ranges of throttle and in all gears. I have stayed with the stock airbox due to comments I have read here, but it is now causing me performance issues. running it without the snorkel, no big deal, but without the air filter top makes me worry the air filter will vibrate out of place and then it can start sucking crap into the engine. Those APE filters are very tempting and if I could get the ovals I'd be all over that deal.

While at Zack's Cycle yesterday Zack was asking about the racing I did. He asked about what kind of rear tire air pressure I was running, I wasn't sure, some where between 20-25 psi. He then asked if I had rim locks which I don't. He cautioned me that the tire could slip on the rim causing it to tear the tube (I am running tubes in my rims). Do any of you that race have rim locks? ZukiDave? Anyone ever have this happen and rip a tube? I have raced this bike plenty of times with no issues and I am just wondering if I have gotten lucky? Rim locks are cheap and easy to install, but since I've had no issues I am leaning against making that change. Whadda ya think?

If I was spinning the tire for takeoff I would have them.
Steve

Zack is a very experienced racer, We were competitors 100 years ago. LOL . Check out his stores website and you will see his and a lot of others racing Pro stock, Funny Bike and Top Fuelers. Even Zed1015s funny bike is in there somewhere. ( pretty sure ). Rim locks are a good idea when you are really trying to have your tire hook up. Street racings different..

PS Zack never beat us . But still a good guy.

Dave

Getting back to the engine problem, I don't see how the airbox would cause it unless there's something wrong with the filter or the plumbing inside the airbox.

If you want to run pods without paying big bucks, Uni Filters work well, cost about $15 apiece. Maybe not as cool looking as K&N. Baseline jetting for a KZ1000 with pods and a pipe is 20 pilot, 120 main. That should get you going down the street and then maybe some fine tuning.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationIf you have room to clamp on a pod filter, then you can install a set of these:

Dave,

I worked out at the track from 1977 to 1982. I worked damn near every position they had out there. I started in the concession stands when I was on 12 years old. Mainly worked in tech and out on the track organizing and directing car where they needed to be for the races. Who knows I may have watched you race 40 years ago!

TheTrout wrote: Dave,

I worked out at the track from 1977 to 1982. I worked damn near every position they had out there. I started in the concession stands when I was on 12 years old. Mainly worked in tech and out on the track organizing and directing car where they needed to be for the races. Who knows I may have watched you race 40 years ago!

Small world
Do you remember TOOMA Racing ?? Owner /driver Kevin Tooma
3 man team. ( I was the youngster so I was #3 ) LOL
We had a maroon van and 2 dragbikes. One was a 8 in tire Kosman Chassis, then we stepped up to a 12 in Kosman chassis.
Both bikes and our pit bike were painted my Ralph Pitlock who in on our site as Paintworkz
I got a new scanner and will post some pictures from back in the day.
Milan was our home track and we tested there. . Hey, Do you remember Kevins Dad would show up in a Black 512 Ferrari to watch his son race. That was always a head turner LOL. We won a lot as we were heavily financed , Worked real hard, and had Bill Hahn as a sponsor/ mentor
Enough here . Only went on this long as you brought it up, Now back to your bike. If plugs were going bad that quick it is a combination of to much fuel ( REAL FAT ) and restricted air . I have never seen a bike do what happened to you without being choked off . That said it only happened to me on a honda XR500R while ice racing and freezing up the whole intake system . Your jetting must be real fat and or valve stem seals are shot . A stock air box if filter was clean may be restrictive , but NOT that restrictive
Dave