stripped spark plug hole - timesert repair

I always wondered how someone could be such an idiot...now I know
I read a bunch of posts and decided to go with a timesert repair.  It's an expensive kit but seems like a high quality, durable fix. I've been looking at how-to videos and see a couple techniques to catch the aluminum filings. One is to use a bunch of grease, and the other is to use a shopvac (maybe with a straw taped at the end) to suck out the filings.  Doesn't seem those two techniques are compatible since the grease would make it difficult to vacuum up the shavings.  Anybody have any experience or wisdom to share on the best approach? 

Thanks!
Mark
 

Time Sert was an excellent choice IMO.

I employed both approaches, and ruined a good tooth brush to wipe off the greasy aluminum shavings from the tap into a small cardboard box.  
The grease applied was just enough to coat the thread cutter teeth and grab most of the fine shavings.  What that missed was sucked out of the plug hole with a shop vac hose with a foot long piece of clear flexible vinyl tubing from the hardware store attached to the end.

After that a blow gun and air compressor got most of the remaining aluminum out.  Best to wear safety glasses during that process, because the stuff flies all over the place.

Be sure to rotate the crank by hand to get the valves out of the way of the tap and insert setting tools before starting the process.


The end result is worth the expense of the time and money spent, especially if you can find a good used set.

I decided at the time to do all four holes though the other three didn't require it, and may do another head before it's installed to save that hassle down the road.

If, after following Dave's routine, a few chips remain, they will get burned up or blown out the exhaust port.  Aluminum is soft compared to the cylinder wall, valves, and piston rings, and a few chips are unlikely to cause any real damage.

Repair went beautifully, easier than expected. I've always thought spark plug hole repair would be such a nightmare, but it was literally a 15 minute job with the right tools. 

It looks like that iS a Kz900 or 1000 eng. That's interesting on the Timesert.  I was told by APE a while back that there was not enough material ( supposedly to close to the valve seat) for Timeserts so the used Helicoil. I like the way the Timesert looks Nice work.

The 84 ZN1100 head pictured had Timeserts installed on the engine.

This head will likely be done on my workbench.

Cra-z1 wrote:

It looks like that iS a Kz900 or 1000 eng. That's interesting on the Timesert.  I was told by APE a while back that there was not enough material ( supposedly to close to the valve seat) for Timeserts so the used Helicoil. I like the way the Timesert looks Nice work.
Link to bigsert
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When I had my head sent to Larry I had him do a time cert in one of the spark holes , unfortunately it backed out , After several times of plug chop color tuning . Fortunately the tapped threads looked good so I bought the time cert kit and reinstalled another insert . One thing I noticed is that Larry didn’t use the counter sink tool and the cert had been raised at the seat . When I re did the cert I counter sunk and applied a light coat of the high heat thread lock supplied with the kit , now I just use caution not to over torque the plugs and will wait till the eng cools before pulling that plug , so far no problems , I did check with a bore scope the clearance from insert to valve , if you have up sized the valves I can see there no room for the next up size time cert . So far all is well 

rich67 wrote:

When I had my head sent to Larry I had him do a time cert in one of the spark holes , unfortunately it backed out , After several times of plug chop color tuning . Fortunately the tapped threads looked good so I bought the time cert kit and reinstalled another insert . One thing I noticed is that Larry didn’t use the counter sink tool and the cert had been raised at the seat . When I re did the cert I counter sunk and applied a light coat of the high heat thread lock supplied with the kit , now I just use caution not to over torque the plugs and will wait till the eng cools before pulling that plug , so far no problems , I did check with a bore scope the clearance from insert to valve , if you have up sized the valves I can see there no room for the next up size time cert . So far all is well  

Head with four new Time-Serts installed, and spark plugs torqued to 16 ft. lbs.:




Two inserts seized with the plugs and pulled out:




Note:  The integrated depth stop(s) of the countersink tool MUST make full contact with the head.  It is critical that the top of the insert is BELOW the head surface when set.

Fortunately had an extra 44111 insert, and I was able to reuse one that pulled out:

When attempting to salvage do this:


Not this:

I bought a bike that had one come out as well. When you salvaged this cert did you put thread lock on it? Also I’m not sure that this person cut the counter sink for it. To be honest I’m not sure that this is a time cert or something else (since it’s not brass) Should I just buy the tool and cut the counter sink and put thread lock on a new cert? Any help would be much appreciated. 

Slj029 wrote:

I bought a bike that had one come out as well. When you salvaged this cert did you put thread lock on it? Also I’m not sure that this person cut the counter sink for it. To be honest I’m not sure that this is a time cert or something else (since it’s not brass) Should I just buy the tool and cut the counter sink and put thread lock on a new cert? Any help would be much appreciated. 
 

Lock-Tite 271 was applied on both the salvaged insert and the new one.  However, the other two were previously set to correct depth with no Lock-Tite application.

I suggest that you post a couple pictures of the insert it would help to identify what you have.
 

Thanks DaveO. I have been trying but it comes up an error everyone I try and submit it.