Valve adjustment Z650 B2 1978

Much like the Dr I do it in a like manner.  I pulled this down from a post by ronkz650 a member here, not sure if posted here or on the kz650.info site, but have found it to work well. 

"They will always measure different at different points of rotation. 
There are different ways to accomplish the same thing here. The general procedure accepted and pretty much outlined in the manuals involves turning the engine over to a specific point of rotation, then digging into your stash of feelers and measure the exact clearance between each valve bucket and cam lobe at the correct point of rotation. Then remove the cams, swap shims, reinstalll the cams, retime the cams. I learned long, long ago there's an easier way. Takes maybe 5 minutes at most to check all 8 valves. 
Start out by getting your feelers, you need a .05mm, .10mm, .15mm and a .20mm. This is all you need for the most part, don't bother checking with more precision than that because it doesn't matter as shims are only available in .05mm increments.
Generally shoot for between .10-.15mm clearance cold. Turn the engine over slowly clockwise with your 17mm socket on the right end of the crank. Do this while constantly trying to insert a .10mm feeler between a bucket and cam lobe. If at any point of rotation a .10mm fits, try a .15mm. If not try a .05mm. This can be done quickly when you get the feel for it. Once you figure the largest feeler in .05mm increment that inserts call that your clearance, so if a .10mm fits and a .15mm doesn't, call .10mm your clearance. Do this for all 8 valves then figure what you've got to change. For example say the 8 valves measured .10, .05, 10, .15 on one cam, you'd see 2 are right where you want them, and one needs a one size larger shim, one needs a one size smaller to bring them all to .10mm. So then you remove your upper camchain idler, unbolt the cam, remove the caps, then carefully keep all chain slack between the cams and the chain tight going down in the engine and carefully move the cam towards the center of the engine, remove one of the valve buckets needing adjustment, retrieve the shim, note the size and obtain your suitable replacement, reinstall, carefully lift the cam back in position keeping chain tight going down in the engine, torque down the camcaps to 7 ft/lb or so and you're done with that cam. Recheck clearances and move to the other cam. One cam at a time, do the way I say and timing will not be fouled up."

The manual is kind of vague as to how the buckets & shims are actually removed. I assume a suction cup tool is needed for the buckets but don't see one in the special tools section of the FSM (not that I'd be looking to buy one since it's probably $$$).  Then there's the shims & split keepers.  I've done the valve clearance check a couple of times but never removed the camshafts.  I suppose the job will be obvious once a guy starts digging in. doh.

A magnet works very nicely to remove the buckets/shims, usually they come out together. No worries about dealing with the split keepers, or collets for valve clearance adjustment, they only need to be removed to take the valves out of the head.  Marking the chain and corresponding link on the sprocket and doing one came at a time are good tips!

Mike

Thanks.  Some cylinder head pics I saw earlier on EB were with the buckets & shims removed so I was assuming the shims would be done w the split keepers in situ, but it seemed like a good idea to mention them. hee.

wrote:

The manual is kind of vague as to how the buckets & shims are actually removed. I assume a suction cup tool is needed for the buckets but don't see one in the special tools section of the FSM (not that I'd be looking to buy one since it's probably $$$).  

A valve grinding stick is the best and cheapest tool for lifting out the buckets.
A magnet shouldn't really be used for the job as it risks magnetising the components which then attracts oil bound metallic particles leading to increased wear of the buckets and their bores.
Autobar Valve Grinding Stick Lapping Tool Wooden Shaft Double Ended - 240mm | eBay

"A magnet shouldn't really be used for the job as it risks magnetising the components which then attracts oil bound metallic particles leading to increased wear of the buckets and their bores."
OOPS!!!  Guess I ruined hundreds of engines adjusting valve clearance at the factory!  Sorry!

Mike

I got to work today, took measurements with all three systems and the results are identical.
all valves have a measurement of plus 0.1 and minus 0.15 except the intake valve of cylinder no. 3 which is more than 0.15 and less than 0.2.

I have just used these to lift the bucket.

 

Those can for sure cause more damage than a magnet, unless used VERY carefully.
(IMHO)  Mike

How can you damage?

If you scratch the bucket or mark it in any way.
Remember the bucket is pushed down into the head recess by the cam lobe and needs to be able to rotate within the recess also. If the bucket cant rotate due to a scratch or burr the wear on both it and the head recess will be will be one directional, front to back, the more it rocks the quicker the wear.
I've not heard of a fix to recess wear othe than custom made oversize buckets. 

I understand.

I have been abel to lift them with one grip on top of the bucket and I think these location/point is not touching anything…?

Will use a magnet next time