Valve adjustment Z650 B2 1978

hello, I am going to check the valve clearance and in the manual I read that the valve clearance must be adjusted between 0.08 and 0.18 mm.
But the manual doesn't make a difference between intake and exhaust valves, does this mean that both intake and exhaust should be adjusted between 0.08 and 0.18 mm?

Yes, preferably towards 0.18, as clearance decreases over time.  Also, it doesn't damage anything if you're a bit more than 0.18.

The factory manual details how to position the cams before measuring, but in my opinion, it's not the best method.  For one thing, you need to fuss around with looking at the timing marks, which are easy to miss or overshoot when rotating the engine.  The below method is much easier to execute and provides more consistent measurements.

This is THE BEST method to adjust the valves.  It's the method in the factory manual for the later year big KZ's, and the GS Suzuki's, the engine of which is very similar to the KZ's only, arguably, more durable.

This method is dead easy to remember, and you don't need to look at the T and F marks on the timing plate.

1) Rotate engine until #1 exhaust cam lobe is pointing forward, parallel to the gasket surface, then measure #1 & #2 exhaust valves.
2) Rotate engine until #4 exhaust cam lobe is pointing forward.........................................................................#4 & #3 exhaust valves.
3) Rotate engine until #1 intake cam lobe is pointing straight up, perpendicular to the gasket surface, then measure #1 & #2 intake valves.
4) Rotate engine until #4 exhaust cam lobe is pointing straight up................................................................................#4 $ #3 intake valves.

but shouldn't the measurement be done at cylinder 1 and 3 and then at 2 and 4, when they are at the end of the compression?

If you've never done it before just follow the book and you will be fine.  The hard part is how to change a shim if needed.  

wrote:

but shouldn't the measurement be done at cylinder 1 and 3 and then at 2 and 4, when they are at the end of the compression?
 

It has nothing to do with compression, or piston postion.   It is simply about getting the pointed lobe of the cam away from the bucket where exposes the clearance, and is conveniently positioned for sticking a gauge in between.

The book simply tells you following the crankshaft markings, because it is an easy position reference to follow.......w/out having to explain any further.

To measure valve clearance, the cam must be positioned on the base circle of the valve being checked.  There is a range of positions for engine rotation to achieve this. 

The method I mention above, again, from the KZ1000 manual, and applicable for all KZ bikes, specifies positioning the cams such that TWO ADJACENT valves are on the base circle at the same time.  This is important because if one valve is on the base circle, and the adjacent valve isn't, then the adjacent valve will be pushing the cam upwards, skewing it in the journal clearance.  If the journal clearance is .002" for example, the valve you are measuring may fool you into thinking you have more clearance than you actually do.

I understand, in this way the error for the assembly tolerances is also minimized.
I will check the valve clearance with this system and hope they are within tolerance.
As always, this forum is a mine of useful information.
Thank you.

Is there a good how-to on KZR for actually swapping shims?  The FSM seems kinda vague in that regard. Thanks.

wrote:

Is there a good how-to on KZR for actually swapping shims?  The FSM seems kinda vague in that regard. Thanks.

Removing the cams to change shims is a major pain in the butt.  I've not seen a tutorial, although one would be very useful.  

Some guys use a mark on the cam chain and the cam sprocket itself, to show where the parts mate together.  This speeds reassembly.  And don't forget that the 550, later 650, and 750 bikes require loosening the cam chain tensioner before installing the valve cover.  Failing to do this will result in over tensioning the cam chain.

I have two 650 engines, both are 1978.  I converted one to shim over bucket.

If I have to change the shim size on the shim under bucket system. I pull one cam at a time. First I set the cams at 1/4 TDC like when you install them. Remove the top tensioner. Then I remove the cam caps. Instead of removing the cam, I roll the cam out of place over the buckets but keeping the camchain taut on the cam sprocket so the camchain does not come off the teeth on the crank. I keep the camchain play between the two cam sprockets as seen in photo below. Change your valve shim. Then roll the cam back in place while keeping the camchain taut on the cam sprocket and on the crank. Install cam caps, and top tensioner, reset camchain tensioner. Then rotate crank 720 degrees to check cam timing. I always recheck the clearance on the valves I changed the shims on. Thats it!!!!

Its a little harder to keep the camchain on the cam sprockets if your bike has the HY-VO style camchain. I have used this method since back in the '70's when I installed the shim under bucket set-up in my Kz1000 motors.