Oil light comes on at low rpm

Not too bad should clean up nicely. I'd focus on the relief spring.
Steve

www.partzilla.com/search?q=16130-1001+RELIEF+VALVE&ui=typeahead

Sand in in a large figure "8".... which is generally accepted as the correct pattern to ensure uniform material removal.

Looks like much of the scoring on the pump cover has been smoothed out.

Before:
 


After: 
 


I measured the rotor clearances with a feeler gauge, and they look to be okay:
 

Should I leave the rotors be or should I just replace them anyway since I have an extra set? 
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Good job on the sanding!
I would use the the "old" 'uns, as they are already lapped together as a "set".
 

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configuration

wrote:

Not too bad should clean up nicely. I'd focus on the relief spring.
Steve

The manual says to replace the relief valve assembly as a whole unit (part #16130-1001)
 

I'm having trouble finding the full assembly on the usual sites like Z1 and Partzilla.

The link you shared  www.partzilla.com/search?q=16130-1001+RELIEF+VALVE&ui=typeahead   appears to only have individual parts within the valve assembly, unless I'm misunderstanding what I'm looking at - It can be difficult to tell when there is no product photo. 

Would it be a bad idea to buy a used one off ebay since I don't know the condition of the internals? 
 

You may be able to use compressed air to test the pressure valve. Start low, like 20psi. Verify it's blocking air. Slowly increase pressure and see where it opens.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configuration

wrote:

wrote:

Not too bad should clean up nicely. I'd focus on the relief spring.
Steve

The manual says to replace the relief valve assembly as a whole unit (part #16130-1001)
 

I'm having trouble finding the full assembly on the usual sites like Z1 and Partzilla.

The link you shared  www.partzilla.com/search?q=16130-1001+RELIEF+VALVE&ui=typeahead   appears to only have individual parts within the valve assembly, unless I'm misunderstanding what I'm looking at - It can be difficult to tell when there is no product photo. 

Would it be a bad idea to buy a used one off ebay since I don't know the condition of the internals? 


I called them about a part, they were very helpful but I found they didn't have the part I was looking for. In the link I posted it looked like it was the complete part but the price is too low. Give them a call and maybe with their help make one up as a whole unit.
Steve
 

wrote:

I called them about a part, they were very helpful but I found they didn't have the part I was looking for. In the link I posted it looked like it was the complete part but the price is too low. Give them a call and maybe with their help make one up as a whole unit.
Steve
 

Hey Steve, 

I could use a little clarification here. The manual says "...replace the relief valve as an assembly. The relief valve is precision made with no allowance for replacement of individual parts."

I interpreted this to mean that the tolerances are specific to each complete unit, therefore building one from mix & matched components might pose problems. Is my interpretation correct, or is the manual saying that you can replace individual parts of the relief valve as long as you replace ALL of its individual parts, such that they are all new and have no wear?

I'd say it's for a used item that has already "broken in". 
Steve

For now, I'm gonna button her up and try running a thicker oil, see if that does the trick. 

I'm in the process of putting the clutch back in place and I wanted to make sure of something before moving on. 

Are the clutch basket and the gear it meshes with supposed to be able to rotate while the bike is in neutral? Because it doesn't budge at all, and I can't remember if it rotated when I was taking it apart, so I want to make sure I didn't screw anything up when reinstalling the pump and oil pan. 

I'm thinking it's probably not supposed to rotate, as that would intuitively make sense as to why the bike doesn't move when it's off and in gear - I just want to be certain. 

EDIT: I remember now, the basket was definitely able to spin before - Could the fact that it's stuck mean that the oil pump gear might not be meshing properly with the pump drive gear on the secondary shaft?
And if I have to go back in and mess around with it, will I need to replace the oil pan gasket again, even though it's brand new? Or is it fine to reuse, since it has not yet been exposed to the pressure and heat of the engine?
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UPDATE: I thought my crankshaft was stuck since it and the clutch basket weren't rotating when I attempted to turn it by hand, but I think the reason I remembered them moving so easily during disassembly was probably because I was trying to turn the clutch hub locknut with a big ol' wrench, and the added leverage made it rotate more easily.