Thin shims after valve job

Howdy all, after getting my head completed, I knew I was going to need to run thinner shims to compensate for the valve lapping done. I had new valves installed - just the standard variety for kz1100 from z1enterprises, and APE VGK900 guides. I ordered a 2.00 shim to check my gaps with, since my smallest shim at 2.30 was too big. So far I'm going to need to be running a few 2.00s, and 2.05s, to maintain a .10 clearance. This alone seems not good. I got to checking the gap on intake #1, and I could not fit my smallest feeler 0.04 through. This is with a set of Web 110 cams, if that makes any difference. Without spending oodles of dollars what are my options? Will trimming the valve stems work here? Can I fix this without taking the head off again? Do I just sit in the corner and cry?

You will have to "Tip" the valves. I took .008" off mine on my old head. Brought me back to 220-230 range. You can take off up to .012
Will install larger valves but in the mean time I'm using a junk head I ported and saved. 
Steve

Minimum valve clearance is 0.10mm so you need to be shimmed at 0.15mm from the start.
By the book you can gain 0.30mm by tipping the valves and if it's shim over bucket you can take up to 1mm off the collets, retainers and stems to get you back in the high end range of the shims if the 0.30mm alone doesn't get enough scope for future adjustment.

 

Thanks guys! I'll tip the valves to get the extra clearance needed.

only question for me is why do you have to cut seat after valve being tipped? does tipping cause valve to set differently on seat?
can a guy get away with only tipping one valve (only have 1 that needs it) its an ex valve with 2.00mm shim and only .11mm clearance.
so can i grind .008mm off tip just like steve does in his video? maybe get away with just lapping after? thanx

If your valve quides aren't worn out you can get away with it. It's .008" 
Steve

wrote:

If your valve quides aren't worn out you can get away with it. It's .008" 
Steve

so for clarification purposes is it .008 in.'s and not mm's? 
thank you, steve! no sir, my valve guides are all pleasantly snug, no wobbles. 
went through all the valves and checked for straightness with drill and temp taped stems
then lapped all valves -1    new ex valve on way, ordered from Z1 w/ 12pk of new viton seals.
when i checked valves for seal, I filled bowls with water and was damn happy and surprised that the next morning levels on the 3 cylinders were only a hair short!
but since introduction of valve grinding abrasive, not that i was sloppy or anything lol, i just figured i'd clean clean, and clean then put new seals x8 for self assurance purposes lol

 
 

oh man! seems i spoke too soon or jinxed myself. 
removed all valves and seals to prep for new ex valve and seals
while removing the #1 intake valve seal i'd discovered a broken intake valve guide, i remove valve seals by using an old antenna with flattened and bent end to grab bottom lip of old seals since in fact being replaced. I wouldn't have used the same if removing seal I intended to use yet.
it seems to have snapped or broke off flush with the spring seat with the seal still on it. DAMN!!!!!!! i really can't catch a break uhgg
does any place sell just one 7mm guide??
i have a buddy who owns a machine shop where i can possibly have him help me install a new one, and since i don't possess any of the correct tools.
really sucks 'cause i had hopes to ride soon, might even be next season with snow flyin soon

  
 

Partzilla lists the intake guides as still available. It has been used on a bunch of more recent models.

 

yessir, seen that right after I'd posted.
still in disbelief I'm even having these kinds of issues 
haven't been able to contact my machine shop buddy, but if i got to take the head to a shop, what does a shop usually charge to have new valve guide installed, and new seat cut??