89 KZ1000P bobber?

650ed wrote: Either way shown below will hold the counter sprocket from moving. Ed

This is exactly what was describing above. I googled sprocket holder and all that really popped up was the dirt bike video plugging a holding tool. Obviously the dirt bike sprocket was barely tight. In using the brake to hold the front sprocket, there is also a rubber damper between the wheel and sprocket that will dampen the impact wrench blows the same way that it smooths out the engine pulses on the chain.
The rubber dampner is #14 in this snip from the FSM.

Used my dremel and cut it almost through then used a chisel and it split. There is a small amount of locktite residue. Still used the impact to knock it loose. Have a dewalt air impact. Though my hose may be a little small for optimal force. :woohoo: :whistle:

Nuts off. I'll pull it all apart Saturday and grease the bearings and bushings, mount the new parts, and be able to ride it again.

Thanks old kaw. I see what you mean. Duh. Should have used bolts.

It sucks that you had to ruin the nut, because now that too needs to be replaced. A few smacks from a hammer on the socket knocking the locking plate flat will help get the socket on as far as possible. Bolting the chain solid with a tight fitting socket combined with a little heat may have saved the nut for the next time. All pure speculation on my part.

A lot of these parts are expensive and / or NLA so you should try to never ruin >anything< if at all possible. A nut like that isn't available from handy hardware and feed store.

I do speak from real world experience with a little bit of common sense tossed in. Been there and done that on almost every situation know to man, yet I still seem to find new mountains to conquer daily it seems. :whistle:

A Chevy ABS module repair I did last week. Brake / ABS light on. Cracked solder joints. Fun stuff.

I used the sledge hammer as a back up and a small ball peen on the front. It seems to be peened enough but not pretty like the rest.

Did you replace the sprockets? Be sure the link isn't too tight.
Steve

Looks like your o-ring is squashed a Little bit to much. You Need the right chain rivet tool for D.I.D chains

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EDIT: It could be also a wrong/bigger o-ring under the master link and your master link is not rivet right!!!

The DID tool is expensive, but worth every cent. It worked perfectly on the RK chain I recently installed.

That link is way to tight.

It's too tight. I'm trying to get it opened up a bit. Used a cheaper Amazon chain tool. May have to cut this off and put other snap link on.

jimdgreat1 wrote: I used the sledge hammer as a back up and a small ball peen on the front. It seems to be peened enough but not pretty like the rest.

Wow, Jim.. that o-ring is REALLY squashed out. lol Don't feel too bad, I screwed up my first try too, then bit the bullet (not too hard) and ordered in a new rivet link that matched my new EK chain perfectly. It did take some looking to find the right link, but as everyone knows, a chain is only as good as it's weakest link.

It doesn't take an expensive tool to rivet a chain, although the link needs to be pushed onto the pins properly before riveting.


My cheapie tool didn't have the right pressing foot.


I used an old link side piece to press it on straight and evenly. It made it idiot proof. (Note the hole spacing on the pressing foot does not match the 630 chain ) This is the link I tossed after I screwed it up.