89 KZ1000P bobber?

Smart man! Switching to a 530 chain would be wise.

I stayed with the original gear ratio and 630 chain. It will probably out last me.

jimdgreat1 wrote:

baldy110 wrote: What did you attach the upper strap mount to?

There is a threaded bung welded to the frame there. Don't know what it was for originally. There is one on both sides. Look like they could be foot peg mounts that were added at some point.

For the side box crash bars.
Steve

Holy !as! That front nut is on there! Going to have to get out the impact.

They have to be tight. Might try some heat in case the OP used red Loctite.
Steve

Looks like they cut off the loop for the rear exhaust mount and the side bags. Too bad but if you are not going to use bags then probably not a big loss.

I'm still trying to get the front sprocket nut off. Bought and used a Dewalt impact with 600 pounds torque. Still on there. I'm still thinking this was on from the factory. The tabs were bent over the nut very uniformly and equal on both sides.

Will I have to cut this off? I don't have my torch here. Guess I could get a cheap LP hand torch and try a little heat.

You can run a bolt / nut (or two bolts) through the chain behind the swingarm pivot and use a cheater bar on a breaker bar. Some heat might help, but I wouldn't get it too hot, since the rubber output shaft seal is right behind the sprocket.



It looks like someone cut the left muffler hanger bracket off of the frame while doing "improvements" to the bike. What the hell do the japs know anyway? it's gotta go! LOL

Yeah I don't think I should get it too hot.
Have tried a 4 foot cheater bar and this impact and holding the rear brake. It's not moving but the chain could be stretching limiting the effectiveness of the impact.

jimdgreat1 wrote: Yeah I don't think I should get it too hot.
Have tried a 4 foot cheater bar and this impact and holding the rear brake. It's not moving but the chain could be stretching limiting the effectiveness of the impact.

The brake isn't enough if it's that tight. You need to bolt that sucker SOLID, then try your cheater bar. The likelihood of that 630 chain stretching is slim to NONE. The brake isn't holding it. Also, be careful not to round off the nut and use a tight fitting socket. You could also try a sharp chisel to split the nut away from the shaft, but that is a last resort type of move.

Are you using a cordless impact or air? Those cordless ones won't work no matter what the manufacturer rates it's torque value at. Use a 1/2" air impact gun, it'll zip it off like it wasn't tight.

baldy110 wrote: Are you using a cordless impact or air? Those cordless ones won't work no matter what the manufacturer rates it's torque value at. Use a 1/2" air impact gun, it'll zip it off like it wasn't tight.

Not always the case> I have a craftsman 1/2" air impact that quite often I have to break lug nuts loose on my truck before it will budge them. (they are not even close to being stuck hard) It also depends if my compressor is fully pumped up to the 130 PSI it is set at, or if it is just at the tip-in point to recharge.

PLUS, using the brake to hold the sprocket while loosening will act as a damper to the impact blows and hinder removal of an extremely troublesome fastener. A couple of long 1/4" or 5/16" bolts through the chain links will hold the sprocket solid.

Here is a neato tool to hold the sprocket while loosening the nut. Not necessary with a few bolts.

Either way shown below will hold the counter sprocket from moving. Ed