1980 kz550ltd first timer

Definitely install a new chain and both sprockets as a complete new set. A worn sprocket will prematurely wear out a new chain because the tooth pitch doesn't match the pitch of the chain, and a worn chain will prematurely wear out sprockets for the same reason. Ed

There are speed/RPM calculators online for the Kz550. I made one years ago, but with modern browser security, you may have to download it, rename it, and open it on a Windows computer.
s3.amazonaws.com/gpzweb/GPZspeedAndRpmCalculator.html

loudhvx wrote: There are speed/RPM calculators online for the Kz550. I made one years ago, but with modern browser security, you may have to download it, rename it, and open it on a Windows computer.
s3.amazonaws.com/gpzweb/GPZspeedAndRpmCalculator.html

Yup, I found gearing commander. Thinking of going with a 17 or 18 tooth engine sprocket and stock rear.

Not sure 18 will fit.

loudhvx wrote: Not sure 18 will fit.

Yeah it seems like people have had to remove the guard to run an 18 tooth. I will probably go 17 in front and see if I can find a -2 for the rear.

loudhvx wrote: I've used UNI's, K & N's, and Emgo pods on many different Kz's. They all jet relatively closely to each other, and the Emgo's were by far the most convenient, least annoying, and the most consistent while jetting... far superior in every way... worth their weight in gold, but only cost their weight in zinc. They are what are considered museum-quality pods.

Not sure if this it tongue in cheek and not sure what "museum-quality" means, but Emgo pods are a cheap junk alternate to the filters they emulate, K&N's. For one thing they are paper filters, not gauze like K&N's. You can not clean paper filters and the first time they get wet they will plug up and the mixture strength will change, possibly drastically. Paper filters should not be oiled, but unfamiliar people oil them anyway because they think they are K&N's, but they aren't. Another thing, on some carbs pod filters block airflow to certain carb circuits with air inlets along the periphery of the carb opening. I have no idea if that's a concern on the TK carbs, I just know that it pays to study changes like this before jumping in.

Oh, and another thing, K&N's (the real ones) flow lots of air because they are poor filters. More dirt gets through to the engine than with the OEM filter inside the airbox. High silica content (dirt) in oil analysis studies are often traced to using K&N filters. It's not like your engine will blow up right away or anything, but just realize that there is no free lunch regarding mods like this.

Nessism wrote: ..........................
Oh, and another thing, K&N's (the real ones) flow lots of air because they are poor filters. More dirt gets through to the engine than with the OEM filter inside the airbox. High silica content (dirt) in oil analysis studies are often traced to using K&N filters. It's not like your engine will blow up right away or anything, but just realize that there is no free lunch regarding mods like this.

Exactly. The link below shows objective tests between various air filters. Granted, the tests were for automotive (Nissan / Infiniti) filters, but I believe similar results would be obtained for motorcycle filters. K&N did not fare well in these tests. If one is concerned about long-term use of the bike he might consider the tests important. If one plans to sell the bike fairly quickly, or if he rides only in an operating room clean environment, the tests probably don't matter to him. Ed

www.nicoclub.com/archives/kn-vs-oem-filter.html

I have been using the Emgo type pods with great success for 10 years. I have several friends who also have been using the Emgo type pods for more than 10 years, on multiple bikes, and they have had no problems either. But as I've said before, more than once, I live in an area that is pretty free of dust/dirt. It rains here often and I live in a city, as opposed to a rural area. Here, the enemies are rain and salt.

To me the K&N's and UNI's were junk, mostly because of price and inconvenience. The K&N's and UNI's are a pain in the ass to clean and cost an outrageous amount of money for what they are, not to mention the overpriced cleaner and oil. Anytime you try to make a carb adjustment you get a hand full of goop. But worse was the fact that the UNI's started to dry out and crumble into the intake. And the K&N's after a few washings, you could see the gauze was deteriorating.

To me, the Emgo's are a cost effective, better alternative to the K&N's. They are disposable so they won't go through the age deterioration that the others do. There's little cash investment involved so there's no cost-related remorse if you decide to go back to the airbox.

In an area, like where Steve (Swest) lives, I think you'd have to keep the airbox and stock paper filter to have a chance of keeping out dust/dirt/sand.

I've always said pods are not for anyone who will be riding in the rain. That's why I still have two bikes with airboxes. However, I have been caught in the rain with the Emgos (and UNIs and K&N's). While riding, they act about the same as the UNI's and K&N's... that is, as long as you are moving and the filters don't get soaked, you won't notice much difference. If the rain is real heavy, and you're not moving, or there is a bad side-draft, the outer carbs can act a little choked. Your legs and the motor block the rain, and in a light rain, the filters don't get wet very much if at all. Being parked while raining is more of a problem. If the Emgos get soaked, I replace them, but they still run normal after drying out. I just don't trust them to stay in tact.

There is no issue regarding port interference on the TK22 carbs and the Emgos I use (There are other brands, but they all seem to be similar/same as the Emgos).

And yes, museum-quality was a joke.

I have the airbox and K&N filter. I clean and use the spray oil on it. I've had the paper and the foam filters. I like the K&N best.
Steve

Oh Boy, the great air filter debate... next well be talking about oil again...

Well the Emgo pods are a cost effective option, and they work. You have to tune for them, any filter in the stock air box will be easier to get running than pods. Having said that you have to buy the carb boots and a stock filter so that is about $70 bucks right there. Emgo pods are what, 8 bucks each.

If your not going the pod route to save money then why? Looks? that is a valid reason I guess. If you want performance then your air filter is the last thing you should be looking at.

Mechanical carbs like your TK's are pretty tolerant of pods, but you have to tune them. I personally would put the thing together in stock from and ensure it runs well and you don't have problems anywhere else. Then put pods on, if you have problems getting it to run you can go back to the air box. It gives you a reference to tune the bike to, otherwise you may be modifying power out of your bike and not know it.

For the record I run oem filters in my bikes, but in the case of my 1300 Kawasaki hasn't made them since the 1990's and NOS filters have the foam on the ends deteriorating. So it's K&N or UNI. I use a UNIfilter because they are 1/4 the price of K&N. It's better than nothing.

Tyler wrote: Oh Boy, the great air filter debate... next well be talking about oil again...

Well the Emgo pods are a cost effective option, and they work. You have to tune for them, any filter in the stock air box will be easier to get running than pods. Having said that you have to buy the carb boots and a stock filter so that is about $70 bucks right there. Emgo pods are what, 8 bucks each.

If your not going the pod route to save money then why? Looks? that is a valid reason I guess. If you want performance then your air filter is the last thing you should be looking at.

Mechanical carbs like your TK's are pretty tolerant of pods, but you have to tune them. I personally would put the thing together in stock from and ensure it runs well and you don't have problems anywhere else. Then put pods on, if you have problems getting it to run you can go back to the air box. It gives you a reference to tune the bike to, otherwise you may be modifying power out of your bike and not know it.

For the record I run oem filters in my bikes, but in the case of my 1300 Kawasaki hasn't made them since the 1990's and NOS filters have the foam on the ends deteriorating. So it's K&N or UNI. I use a UNIfilter because they are 1/4 the price of K&N. It's better than nothing.

I'm using a $11 Hiflo paper filter inside the stock airbox on my 750. The stock airbox boots were in fine shape, but they cost $12.41 each if you get unlucky. Clean the carbs, replace all the O-rings, verify the jetting is stock, and you have pretty much assured yourself that the bike will start and run without drama when the time comes.

A Dynojet kit costs about $100. Real deal K&N's are $150. You can go low rent with Emgo cheapies and try to rejet yourself, but plan to do a lot of experimentation with jetting, and jets themselves are not cheap and you will need enough different sizes to play around with.

And for the record I use diesel engine oil in my bike.

Rejetting for paper pods wasn't any harder than rejetting for other types of pods. And if you are modifying the exhaust a lot, rejetting with the airbox still requires multiple sessions if you are really going to bracket jet (incrementally go lean to rich and select the middle). But then it is more work with the airbox since it's a lot more effort to replace jets.

I like the top end rush with the pods that I just don't get with the stock airbox (even on the same bike). The motor just feels uncorked. The airbox feels more grunty on the low end, which is nice for stoplight to stoplight. I'm not claiming either one is necessarily better overall, but they do feel different.

The stock dual exhaust weighs a ton. I don't think I'd ever keep that, so I'd be rejetting anyway. When I do that I usually do one or two dozen trials on a totally new setup. Out of that, there are usually several that work well, then it's a matter of how I want to use the bike to decide on the final jetting.