1980 kz550ltd first timer

loudhvx wrote: You can supposedly buy larger pilot jets now. I have a link on the TK22 website jet page. But I haven't actually bought any of those pilots.

The way to get a precise tune usually requires some fine needle adjustments. There is a page on that as well, describing the proper way to shim the needle.

You might get away with the 98/37 combo.

The rebuild kits don't include every single oring you might need, but they usually have the ones you are most likely to need.

Get some decent JIS screwdrivers or you will definitely mess up some screws on the carbs, and some of those are difficult to replace... most notably the throttle shaft screws.

Thanks I figured I'd start at 98/37 and go from there.

Is shimming necessary if the kit on k1 has the adjustable needle? From reading I guess I would put it on the 3rd from top in terms of adjustment.

I'll check out the larger pilot jets.

The last Kz550 I jetted (using a wideband sensor) we used all stock jets, and only shimmed the needle. The bike had pods and a Mac 4-into-1. The Mac does not breathe terribly well at higher RPMs, so a better exhaust would probably require a larger main. But the factory main was right for the Mac. Shimming the needle a little bit extra was a compromise over using larger pilots, and was really a test to see if it would work. It ran so well we kept it that way. It's a tiny bit richer than stock so it comes off choke sooner and runs great on cooler days. The compromise is that the cruising MPG is not as high as it could be. It may be in the 45 to 55 MPG range rather than 60 to 70.

We could measure the AFR changes in .1mm to .2mm shim differences. A single shim washer is typically in the .5mm range, so we had to source many different shim washers to get a range of sizes in .1mm increments with the thinnest being around .3 or .4 mm and the thickest around .8mm. One full clip movement on the needle is 1.0 mm.

loudhvx wrote: The last Kz550 I jetted (using a wideband sensor) we used all stock jets, and only shimmed the needle. The bike had pods and a Mac 4-into-1. The Mac does not breathe terribly well at higher RPMs, so a better exhaust would probably require a larger main. But the factory main was right for the Mac. Shimming the needle a little bit extra was a compromise over using larger pilots, and was really a test to see if it would work. It ran so well we kept it that way. It's a tiny bit richer than stock so it comes off choke sooner and runs great on cooler days. The compromise is that the cruising MPG is not as high as it could be. It may be in the 45 to 55 MPG range rather than 60 to 70.

We could measure the AFR changes in .1mm to .2mm shim differences. A single shim washer is typically in the .5mm range, so we had to source many different shim washers to get a range of sizes in .1mm increments with the thinnest being around .3 or .4 mm and the thickest around .8mm. One full clip movement on the needle is 1.0 mm.

How much did you end up shimming it?

This thread is reading like a train wreck already. New rider wants to go straight to mods on a bike that doesn't even run. Just say no.

I strongly advise you to first get the factory Kawasaki manual for your bike. You can find downloads on the internet for free. Then look at the maintenance table and make a plan to attack every single item. In addition, plan to rebuild the carbs (as you already are) but DO NOT get crappy aftermarket "carb kits", get new O-rings and gaskets and keep all the high quality Japanese brass jets and such. Just CLEAN them.

The bike is likely to need new tires, maybe a chain and sprockets, battery, a full brake system teardown and clean out, new stock air filter, and maybe a cable or two. Only mod I'd do right away is maybe some lower bars. For cables, look to the OEM cables from a GPz550 which came stock with low bars. The OEM cables are far superior to crappy aftermarket parts, just like the carb parts.

After you get a few thousand miles on the bike and become skilled then think about some mods, if you still want to do them. Pod filters require extensive rejetting, plus they are expensive. The cheap pod filters all the kids seem to install on thier "cafe" or "bobber" are pure junk. A proper set of K&N's cost about $150 so keep this in mind.

Good luck.

Nessism wrote: This thread is reading like a train wreck already. New rider wants to go straight to mods on a bike that doesn't even run. Just say no.

I strongly advise you to first get the factory Kawasaki manual for your bike. You can find downloads on the internet for free. Then look at the maintenance table and make a plan to attack every single item. In addition, plan to rebuild the carbs (as you already are) but DO NOT get crappy aftermarket "carb kits", get new O-rings and gaskets and keep all the high quality Japanese brass jets and such. Just CLEAN them.

The bike is likely to need new tires, maybe a chain and sprockets, battery, a full brake system teardown and clean out, new stock air filter, and maybe a cable or two. Only mod I'd do right away is maybe some lower bars. For cables, look to the OEM cables from a GPz550 which came stock with low bars. The OEM cables are far superior to crappy aftermarket parts, just like the carb parts.

After you get a few thousand miles on the bike and become skilled then think about some mods, if you still want to do them. Pod filters require extensive rejetting, plus they are expensive. The cheap pod filters all the kids seem to install on thier "cafe" or "bobber" are pure junk. A proper set of K&N's cost about $150 so keep this in mind.

Good luck.

Who pissed in your coffee?

Maintenance is right there on my list if you go back and look. I not asking about those because I have no questions about them yet, as most of it seems straight forward. i have the FSM as well.

Brake lines, fluid, and pads will be replaced. Carbs are being cleaned, I decided against a rebuild kit after watching a couple videos and reading more. Chain will be measured and either tensioned or replaced. Tire in back is spanked and overall they are old so they will be getting replaced either way.

We don't very much riding season left in MN so no sense in rushing to get this thing running stock when it will be sitting for the next 6 months.

I'm asking questions about things I don't understand yet, ie carb jetting/tuning. If your hate is for pod filters so be it, just don't be rude about it.

Sage advice is offered but doesn't need to be accepted. I agree with what was offered. I have nothing more to add.
Good luck.
Steve

I've used UNI's, K & N's, and Emgo pods on many different Kz's. They all jet relatively closely to each other, and the Emgo's were by far the most convenient, least annoying, and the most consistent while jetting... far superior in every way... worth their weight in gold, but only cost their weight in zinc. They are what are considered museum-quality pods.

The bike I enjoy riding the most is the one with pods. The stock airbox bikes are fun, but there is a little more rush with the pods. The major downside is rain.

The TK22 carbs are probably the easiest carbs to rejet that I've dealt with, but if you've never fully rejetted carbs for pods and exhaust before, you will want to get a baseline with the airbox first. Carbs are the last stage of tuning. Everything else must be working flawlessly first or rejetting will be a bunch of headaches.

You may not need all of four rebuild kits, but you will likely need some parts. You can buy fuel valves separately if you want, but the kits do include them and they are usually needed unless they have been replaced already. They go a long way toward setting the fuel level correctly. If the valve tips have a ring formed around them, you'll probably want to replace the valve and seat. New ones may set at a different height, so you will have to correct for that accordingly. The TK22 site shows a very rough, dry-measurement setting while you have the carbs open.

Mustangftw,

it is pretty common for a new guy to come on the site with a relatively complete bike and start taking it apart to "mod" it for no reason only to to end up with a pile of parts and half finished project. So the general advice is to get it running and start riding because we see so many example of perfectly good bikes pretty much reduced to parts. There are also scores of fantastic custom builds on this site and urge you to search through some of the really great cafe builds that have been done.

You said earlier that your carb boots are toast, well the factory parts are available...

11015-063

11015-057

You need two of each. You could get the bike running without having to rejet and tune. It's just an option.

And by the way Partzilla is known for selling you things that are out of stock, but in this case I know they actually have them.

Z1Enterprizes is out of stock unfortunately.

Tyler wrote: Mustangftw,

it is pretty common for a new guy to come on the site with a relatively complete bike and start taking it apart to "mod" it for no reason only to to end up with a pile of parts and half finished project. So the general advice is to get it running and start riding because we see so many example of perfectly good bikes pretty much reduced to parts. ..................

EXACTLY! Below are just 4 examples out of dozens I have seen on this site over the years. In each case the new owner was positive he was going to make his dream bike, but you can see the results. It's very, very easy to get in over one's head because every change made causes issues that then require more changes. BTW, the very worst case was the guy in Norway who totally destroyed a totally stock Eddie Lawson Replica before he even bothered to find out that it was a very valuable bike. When he was done it ended up being scrapped - motor and all was ruined. UGH! Ed






...and then there's the guy who was going to blend a water cooled Suzuki engine with an air cooled KZ engine! Hardly a big success!

Tore the first carb apart and it's spotless....definitely been rebuilt before and pretty recently. I'm guessing the carbs were drained before it was stored in 2014. Jet sizes were stock. Uncovered air screws confirm a rebuild I guess?

Looks like someone had the vent hoses plugged on the carbs for some reason...

Going to finish the carbs and tackle the chain and inspect the sprockets today, picked up some chain lube as well.

Still shopping for handlebars.

Bought some emgo superbike bars.

Changed the oil and filter, took off the engine sprocket cover and scraped off the thick layers of muck. Thought my engine sprocket was loose but I guess it's supposed to be able to wobble a bit? Adjusted my clutch while I was in there. It drags a bit with the clutch in but apparently That is normal too!

Tightened the chain, had to move two whole tick marks on the swing arm to get it within spec....rear sprocket isn't looking too hot so going to order new ones, should probably get a chain at the same time?

Trying to decide on sprocket tooth counts for the front and back. I heard these 6 speeds can be a bit short geared for highway cruising so might as well remedy that now.