1981 KZ750 LTD four questions

If the airbox is oxidized you can restore it. See kzrider.com/forum/6-paint-a-bodywork/594...r-restoration#635785 for image, and scan partway down forums.kz650.info/index.php?topic=11290.60 for details. Regarding rust in fuel tank even after you clean it, flush it, etc. you should in stall an inline fuel filter. Here's what I've been using for several years: kzrider.com/forum/3-carburetor/599326-wh...the-fuel-line#685995 Ed

Or one of these. You can get them at any bike shop.
Steve

As for the chain, when you spin the wheel by hand, there is going to be some noise. When the wheel is slowly spinned & you're pushing up on the chain, there's probably a point in which it's the tightest, but there shouldn't be much difference. If it gets tight then real loose, the chain may be stretched/worn. Also, compare your sprockets to new ones to see if you can tell if the teeth are worn. If they look fine & the chain turns freely when spinning the wheel, then you're probably okay.

I would double-check the chain adjustment according to the owner's manual to make certain that it has the correct amount of slack. keep in mind that the amount of slack is the total up-&-down movement of the chain. I use a wooden carpenter's folding ruler taped to a block of wood --- doing it this way frees up one hand to spin the wheel & the other to check the chain. I adjust to about 7/8" at the tightest spot (3/4" is too tight)(spec on my csr is 20-30mm or 0.8-1.2").

You will find that the engine covers will / should have dowels in them that keep them centered up. A rubber hammer and thin screwdriver to gently pry them off will help.
Hope this helps for future work.

WILLIAM PIPPEN wrote: You will find that the engine covers will / should have dowels in them that keep them centered up. A rubber hammer and thin screwdriver to gently pry them off will help.
Hope this helps for future work.

Not quite sure what you're talking about?

So, this morning I threw the bike up on center again and checked the total movement in the chain and it was a little loose after the adjustment the other day. Went for a ride after the last adjustment the other day and could in fact hear the chain bumping around leading to the check this morning. Anywho. Adjusted the chain at the tightest point it its travel (no crazy differences throughout) and measured from the axel to the swingarm pivot bolt on both sides. Came up within 1/32 of an inch of eachother. Compressed the front forks with some straps, started up put the bike in first and let the wheel spin at idle. Its got a very slight wobble to it, and I can see a spot looking down the chain where its running straight and then hitches ever so slightly to one side then goes back to tracking pretty damn straight. I've tried the string method to check the alignment but there's really just too much crap under this bike to do it accurately... Should I just give it a ride and if it feels good, rock it? Or is there some magical key thing I'm missing from the manual where it's cut off?

Anybody?

I use the notches on the swing arm and the adjuster.
Steve

1/32 of an inch is close enough. How much slack are you leaving in the chain, and how are you measuring the slack? Ed

Measuring with a ruler taped onto the chain guard. Eyeballing the slack from the side as the total movement up and down. Spec is 20-30mm and I'm in that range.

swest wrote: I use the notches on the swing arm and the adjuster.
Steve

Yeah that's where I started... but its not like those are crazy accurate...

if it pulls with my hands off the bars, I readjust it.
Steve