Kz1000B4 Ground Up.

If you are careful you can use a Dremel cutoff wheel to score the race on 2 sides then crack it off with a chisel. Just be careful not to cut into the stem. That's how I did mine. Another option is to buy or maybe borrow from Auto Zone or Advance Auto a special tool made just for such a purpose. Image below shows what it looks like. Ed

either of Ed's methods will work fine. even if you cut into the stem a tiny bit with the dremel it wont matter, as the new race sits over it. I removed one once by throwing the whole clamp in the freezer and then hitting the race with a butane torch. I recommend making a puller like this to install, cheap, easy, and effective. I picked up the idea from someone on this site.

getting the bearing off the stem is a bitch :sick: !
no two ways about it.
i have to remove a bunch of steering stem bearings when doing front end conversions.
i have a rivet buster chisel that has a bent tip.
so i turn the lower triple upside down in the vise and using soft jaws clamp the stem and rest the end of the stem on the vise.then you can just barely get at the back bottom of the race and knock it off.you can mar the lower triple some as the chisel bounces against it while being struck.
i have the tool ed pictured but never use it for steering stem bearings ,as i can knock em right off with the chisel.
every now and then i have to cut one off.then i just use an abrasive disc in a die grinder and slowly work it up and down the race until i go through slightly or i can crack it with a chisel.

basically you just attack with whatever you have and don't stop until you win :evil: .

hth,

leon

Why is there a gap...

no brake caliper mount!

Also if you have one...running a bit of weld bead on a stuck race will usually let it just fall off/out.

Ugh i am not good at electrical. Even with the diagram it seems imposible.

Sometimes helps to keep in mind that the ignition circuit (to produce properly timed fat blue sparks) is all that's needed for the engine to run and perform normally.









The diagrams are to help visualize how the ignition circuit functions.

Battery positive to the coil "charges" the coil while the coil remains grounded through the points/Dyna-S/igniter.

When the coil becomes ungrounded (by the points opening, or the Dyna-S magnet passing by the pickup, or through the igniter), the coil "fires" through the secondary loop (including both spark plugs).

When again grounded, the coil re-charges, and so on.


There's other wiring for chassis components (lights, horn, etc.).

And more wiring for the charging circuit (generator, regulator/rectifier).

Good Fortune!

Are u using rattle can or spray gun paint?
looking good almost done...

Frame is power coated as is the tank.