1982 KZ1000p project progress

jackleberry wrote: Not to be rude, but I can take a dump and lose more weight than I could by cutting the side cover tabs off a frame. I seriously doubt it could improve performance. Having a big gap there could create more drag though... Just stick with the aesthetic reasons. Still can't say I get it, though. I have a friend with a cafe'd Honda CX500 who gets livid at the thought of having to put anything in that space. What's the point of having space if you can't use it?

If you can make the pods work, then more power to you. I live in Portland and ride year round, so I'm a bit biased against anything that doesn't work well soaking wet.

I've saved over 5 lbs from side covers, tabs, that big metal box for the wiring, and the air box so you must take some mammoth dumps. I can weigh it all this weekend. Much more if you count everything else i removed. The fastest bike around the Nürburgring is still a 10 year old stock engine 2005 r1 with tabs and all the junk cut off it. I removed 30+ lbs from my sv650 track bike and the difference is dramatic. Every 5 lbs is noticeable and it adds up.

It would likely help aerodynamics by creating a low drag vortex like the dimples on a golf ball or the bed of a pickup truck. Not that I expect it to be aerodynamic, the thing is like a brick.

i always thought the bike thats for sale would look real nice with a wrenchmonkees seat/tail piece
www.wrenchmonkees.com/webshop/seat-cowls...at-cowl-3-black.html
leveled out with the tank.

whatever you decide keep us posted,

leon

I also dont get the empty space thing. I know its very popular but to me it looks like the bike isnt finished. Im not going to have any space in mine as Ill be using the airbox and original battery/electrics set up to start with. Though if I did have the space,it would make a perfect place for a carry box for a bike lock, some bungees,a can of WD40, Gaffer tape and waterproofs.
Saving weight,I can understand on an R1 track bike but on an old Z ?.
Saying that,what youve done so far looks fantastic and Im sure its going to look great when its done, with or without a space under the seat.
Looking forward to it.

I think I have most of the electronics stuff figured out.

I'm not sure if I need this rectifier, it appears to only be connected to turn signals and the hazard switch but I have no idea why. Does switching it to AC to make them flash or something?



I started on the piece of aluminum sheet where most of the electronics will mount under the seat.







Drilled some holes and mounted it up. I test fit some of the required electronics to get an idea where I could to put it all.



The regular/rectifier on the right, the igniter in the middle, and the starter solenoid on the left. I think this is all I need to wire up besides the m-unit.





I think I want to put the starter solenoid in the battery box that will contain a small lithium ion antigravity battery. I want to mount this here under the swingarm where the side stand used to go. I don't want it attached to the swingarm due to unsprung weight and vibration.





As for the ugly plastic rear brake reservoir I'm thinking of just using a clear tube like on some motogp bikes so I won't need to add a bracket. I should be able to pick up a kit that fits the GSXR rearsets.

The rectifier is there so that the hazards only flash the rear turn signals.

Oh, and I'm not sure I'd want to mount a battery that can explode if punctured on the underside of the swingarm....

jackleberry wrote: The rectifier is there so that the hazards only flash the rear turn signals.

Ahh I see now that it's only connected to the rear ones. I wonder why this is?

I also ordered some AMSOIL Heavy Duty Metal Protector to treat the inside of the frame for rust. It was full of lots of brown water so I'm thinking that it should be sealed up or at least have a drain hole at the bottom of the tubes to stop standing water.

jackleberry wrote: Oh, and I'm not sure I'd want to mount a battery that can explode if punctured on the underside of the swingarm....

It will sit above the rear tube where I removed the center stand so I don't see how anything would hit it as long as it clears the swingarm. I never had anything hit the centerstand and this will sit higher than that and it will be protected inside a metal box. I could lay the battery on the side so it's lower profile.

Here's the one I used for my SV650 build to give you an idea of how small it is. This has plenty of amps to start the KZ.

blakeem wrote:

jackleberry wrote: The rectifier is there so that the hazards only flash the rear turn signals.

Ahh I see now that it's only connected to the rear ones. I wonder why this is?

I also ordered some AMSOIL Heavy Duty Metal Protector to treat the inside of the frame for rust. It was full of lots of brown water so I'm thinking that it should be sealed up or at least have a drain hole at the bottom of the tubes to stop standing water.

The reason I've heard is that the cops want to be able to pursue someone without alarming them while at the same time warning drivers behind them that they may make sudden moves.

Ahh rust. I have to say I've been quite impressed by a product called Evaporust. It's easy to deal with and quite effective given enough time. I imagine you could plug up any drain holes and fill the entire frame with Evaporust. After leaving it for a few days, drain and flush clean.

jackleberry wrote:

blakeem wrote:

jackleberry wrote: The rectifier is there so that the hazards only flash the rear turn signals.

Ahh I see now that it's only connected to the rear ones. I wonder why this is?

I also ordered some AMSOIL Heavy Duty Metal Protector to treat the inside of the frame for rust. It was full of lots of brown water so I'm thinking that it should be sealed up or at least have a drain hole at the bottom of the tubes to stop standing water.

The reason I've heard is that the cops want to be able to pursue someone without alarming them while at the same time warning drivers behind them that they may make sudden moves.

Ahh rust. I have to say I've been quite impressed by a product called Evaporust. It's easy to deal with and quite effective given enough time. I imagine you could plug up any drain holes and fill the entire frame with Evaporust. After leaving it for a few days, drain and flush clean.

Wow that stuff is only $8.99 for 32 oz, maybe I'll give it a try first and let it sit overnight and use the rust protector after. I'm sure I could find other uses for that stuff as well, it seems better than dealing with the smell of white vinegar. Thanks!

blakeem wrote:

jackleberry wrote:

blakeem wrote:

jackleberry wrote: The rectifier is there so that the hazards only flash the rear turn signals.

Ahh I see now that it's only connected to the rear ones. I wonder why this is?

I also ordered some AMSOIL Heavy Duty Metal Protector to treat the inside of the frame for rust. It was full of lots of brown water so I'm thinking that it should be sealed up or at least have a drain hole at the bottom of the tubes to stop standing water.

The reason I've heard is that the cops want to be able to pursue someone without alarming them while at the same time warning drivers behind them that they may make sudden moves.

Ahh rust. I have to say I've been quite impressed by a product called Evaporust. It's easy to deal with and quite effective given enough time. I imagine you could plug up any drain holes and fill the entire frame with Evaporust. After leaving it for a few days, drain and flush clean.

Wow that stuff is only $8.99 for 32 oz, maybe I'll give it a try first and let it sit overnight and use the rust protector after. I'm sure I could find other uses for that stuff as well, it seems better than dealing with the smell of white vinegar. Thanks!

You can get a gallon for $20 on Amazon Prime or $25 from Harbor Freight. Don't throw out the used stuff either, you can basically keep using it until it stops working, which is long after it has turned completely black. The best thing about it is that it's not corrosive, so you can leave stuff in it and forget about it. The only downsides I've found are that it does take at least overnight to remove anything more than surface rust and that, being a liquid, it's hard to use on anything you can't dip/fill. The stuff will pay for itself in salvaged nuts and bolts alone.

Or you could get some oxalic acid for half the price, mix up your own ratio and have that shit stripped in a couple hours. Ive used evapo rust before and it works but it is expensive.