'76 KZ900 (ZRX1200R) Build

DoctoRot wrote: also since speed hut makes the faces one off, you can get the template from them and design whatever gauge face you want. they only charged me $15 extra to do this.

Those look awesome! Very much like the stock gauges but even cooler!

79MKII wrote:

DoctoRot wrote: also since speed hut makes the faces one off, you can get the template from them and design whatever gauge face you want. they only charged me $15 extra to do this.

Those look awesome! Very much like the stock gauges but even cooler!

Very nice, is the speedo a GPS or standard drive?. My Z1R gauges still work very well and the speedo is very accurate so it'll have to wait BUTTTTTTTTTTTT one bloody twitch out of any gauge needle and if I can afford it I'll buy a set.

Bozo wrote: Very nice, is the speedo a GPS or standard drive?. My Z1R gauges still work very well and the speedo is very accurate so it'll have to wait BUTTTTTTTTTTTT one bloody twitch out of any gauge needle and if I can afford it I'll buy a set.

Speedo is GPS. I designed a set that was very close to stock, however instead of the standard 8-4 needle sweep on the tach I changed it so redline would be at 12 o'cock. I would be happy to change it back to a 8-4 sweep and send you the illustrator file if you were interested in getting them from Speedhut.



Sorry to thread jack Cory! carry on. :whistle:

Hollywoodmx wrote:

NakedFun wrote: So I have a question to pose to the machining/engineering/thinkin' portion of the board. It comes down to bolted joint design. I am thinking about my securing method of the brake rotors and my cush drive basket to the wheel hubs. My original design requires the use of Flat Head Allen cap screws utiling an 82 degree counter sunk recess in the cush drive basket and brake rotor mounting holes. This would allow flush or very low profile securing for clearance and let me work with the 5/16"-18 fastener bosses on the hubs.

Now engienering practive teaches that button heads and countersunk/flat head Allen fasteners are not to be used in critical joint applications. However, ASTM F835 which specifically addresses this fastener type in its mechanical properties specifcally calls out for use in shear type applications is its designed purpose. Specifically fasteners of this type will have the properties of 145,000 psi Min Tensile and a C39 Min Rockwell specifications for diameters of 1/2" or less. There is no Min Yield or Min Proof for this type of fastener, most likely to the the head design....though i have not found the ACTUAL reason for this.

Does this seem feasible to use them for mounting of my brake rotors and cush drive basket to the wheel hubs? I have clearance issues that I need to deal with. I don't want to cause an unsafe situation. My only other option is to redrill the front hub using a jig and re-use the stock ZRX brake hardware.

Thoughts? Am I nuts?

Cory

I have a similar issue on my other build..

I'm switching to nuts or recessed Alan bolts on the cush vs studs and bolts to gain the little clearance I need. Just going to use lock tight. I'm not worried.

Also most dirt bikes use alan bolts for mounting the sprocket and the rear wheels on dirt bikes see some strenuous loads off road.

We should be good.

FYI. I did this today as a test. I used r6 (iirc) hollowed Allan bolts, the have a wider lower seat, lower profile and a bit of rotational weight savings over studs and nuts. Best thing is I got my clearance!

So not much to report, but some stuff for this weekend showed up....

My gen-u-wine jumbo size poker table drink cups arrived in stainless steel so I can make them into thread on retaining cups for the instrument cluster. Going to take some extra spin on mounting rings I bought that mount the gauges, and spin them on the lathe to press fit into the cups, cut the cup flange off, and then use bonding epoxy when pressing the ring into the cup. Will cut out a aluminum or stainless sheet to look sweet and each gauge will drop into them. Then these cups will spin onto the back and secure the gauge, leaving a sealed, finished look.

I also picked up my instrument indicator bezel from a Harley Touring bike. Also got my Drag Specialties polished aluminum bezel for it so it matches the gauges, Will probable powdercoat the main gauge plate in semi-gloss black.

My custom HEL line got here as well.....

Cory

That's going to look sweet Cory, can't wait to see the finished product.

Thank you for adding the Speedhut link, I love those gauges, now I need a set.

Thanks. I think it will come out good. I started to sketch up a cardboard template and laid out the components.

Thinking .125" aluminum and going to add a couple braces so will require two short 1" welds.

Cory

Well I only got part a day this weekend to mess with the bike. So the first thing I did was make a cardboard template and fit the parts to see how it looks. I decide to change it up a little, and bring the gauges together and the center indicator assembly toward the gauges, pulling it in. I am also going to change the attachment to the triple tree so that it is tighter and follows the "V" in the front edge of the triple.

Then I decided to change the levers I created. They worked, but too ugly. I also decide I didn't have the equipment to weld them to where they looked good. So I decided to make them surround the pivot tube and give a medium press fit. This allows for not having to weld them. I also went to .250" thick material that made the press work better and fit the cable and master clevis's better. Will still need to come up with the cable end guide/retainer.

I routed the cables and found they will have to go under the braces I welded in and then on top of the back bone towards the back of the tank. This interfered with the seat pan I made, so I had to re work the pan and gave it a "transmission tunnel". So now I will have to trim the tail accordingly so it fits the pan.

I also drilled my holes and positioned the rubber bumpers. I think instead of the clamps, I may have to use them and weld them into the cross tubes as tabs to prevent side to side movement.....Still thinking on it......

Also tried out my new custom Greg Couch oil cap.....I have my bottle cap center just waiting for it.....

Thats it for now...not much progress......

Cory

So I got some time to work on the bike Saturday. I needed to get going on the mounting of the new inverted levers so that I can finish mounting the dual masters and creation of the cable stay. The leveres are designed to fit into a 1" OD handle bar. My clip ons are 7/8". So I bought 1" OD x .125" T6061 aluminum tube to create adapers. I turned the one end to fit the .880" bar end and the opposite end to .860" so it is just barely a slip fit for the clip on tube. I will use JB Weld to lock the adapters onto the end of the tube. They ended up ebing 2" long so that I felt i had enough engagment to prevent movemnet from the leverage during use.

Now I did end up having to taper the inside of the clip on tube from .750" to the nominal .625" inoreder to allow enough clearance for the cable to transition from the larger end into the narrower section of the clip on.

Now one problem I thought i would going to run into, I did. Since these required these adapter collars to go from the 1" OD levers to the 7/8" clip ons, this pushed the grips toward the center of the bike 2" away from the lever pivots. This created a misalignment of the hand to the lever. I ended up machining the Rizoma grips to fit over the adapter collars by maching the ID of the LH grip and cutting down the throttle tube about 1.5". This leaves about .5" exposed which I will build a egg shaped clamp that will slide over that section and attache my bar end mirrors to them.

The (almost) finished lever setup....turned out Ok I think. Will polish out the adapters and clip on tubes. Also going to look at repainting and refurbishing my controls.

Thats it for now.....

Cory

wow.....funcky looking bar end lever......lots of work u put into. hope it works out.
keep up the great work u doing.

So for giggles, since the housings needed to be refurbished anyway, I decided to do a very rough polish job on the LH housing.

Has anyone done this? Thoughts on it? I think I like it, but I am not sold yet on it. If I do, will probable clear powder coat over all the polished bits. It looks better I think than the pics show. Should I leave it, or paint it black again?

Cory

leave it!

leon