80 KZ 1000 ST Recycled

I'd like to see a pic of the mold you made for the tail too, if you have one.

I remember the "parts bike" Rode with you in naperville a time or 2, pm sent

more!

leon

I'm back from trip. HEY JR! 100 low lead just happened to be available 7$ gal, cheap insurance an it smelled so sweet. The mold ain't very much to look at, just glass over the part you want to replicate, pop it off, and molest at will. More to come soon.

This bike is [strike]still FOR SALE[/strike] in the classified section, pics won't load anymore though, see the ad. The airports around here won't put fuel into anything but a plane, the local citco had it. The fuel system is packed under the subframe in its own little box that comes out with the whole fuel system intact. It consists of 1 Holley blue pump feeding one Holley regulator converted to bypass type operation (from Barry Grant rebuild parts) feeding both the NOS ,7psi, and another Holley (deadhead) regulator that feeds the HSR42 carb to 3psi max. Having a little experience with these the bypass reg was an attempt to stop fuel pressure hunting. I talked to reps & engineers from Holley, Barry Grant, and several others about this and they all said it couldn't be stopped, their right. Temperature and fuel level cause the fuel pressure to change. So..both regs are adjustable without even raising the seat. Fuel pressure is relative to boost, hot days on the street .5psi gives good drivability and at the track start at 3psi and back it off as EGTs and plugs allow. Mr Turbo sold me a billet heat shield so the NOS don't warp the stocker and gave me base line settings for the carb. Right on, but the carb was designed for a hog not a Rayjay, the fuel curve is completely different. A little fine emery cloth on the right spot with the jet needle chucked in a drill made it one of the best running carb turbo bikes I've ridden. The NOS is plumbed and wired but has never been installed, but could be very easily, kit comes with it.

Can't adjust fuel presure without quality gauges, one for the NOS and the carb. Boost and exaust gas temp flank the "air over" boost control pres gauge. All of the stock warning indicator wires drive leds, stop lamp out indicator didn't like the led and is on with tail lamp not brake light. oil light is still incandesent but very bright and above it is the shift light. NOS switches and all boost control switches, regulators, and flow controls are accessed from gauge panel. Relays and timer are under seat. Heres one I learned from Streetfighter magazine from england, if you've never seen the CNC framed V-max with the Tessi front end you need to check out some of the bikes they are building in europe, auwsome! There are some clown bikes but it ain't like here, hardcore engineering not ratings. Anyway what I learned was that some bicycle, not a typo, speedometers will read to 183mph, read instructions before you buy, and are easily programable for tire size. Mount a magnet on the wheel or rotor, preferably aluminum, an go.

Here you can see the level of craftsmanship, remember I built this thing for myself. All the wiring connections were made with oem components and are very neatly organized for a quite busy panel.

Its getin' dark. Notice no glare back from gauge illumination, hard to tell with oil light on but take my word for it.

Mounted low in front are the "air over" boost control air tank (60 psi) and the BATTERY! I told Kent when we built the first bird to do this and a few others but they wouldn't listen till they ALL saw it on this bike. A few tried it and were successful (mounted in front fairing). By the time the MT Dot approved slick came out and they all figured out how to use it you had to have a front mounted battery or you couldn't be competitive in streetbike shootout. Wheelies don't get you down track, its all wasted energy. The battery is supported by a bracket off the cases on top and the bar going across between the casegaurds on the bottom. Inside the box is a Busa battery and the starter soleniod. I couldn't stand to have that BHP distributor drive damaged in an accident. Its never been down. Also notice the clutch cover, it was made from a machined stock cover and a 750 twin cover cut down and a flange welded to it. You can remove either cover to service the lock-up clutch.

I'm startin' to run out of pics any questions?

gearheadmm wrote:

I'm startin' to run out of pics any questions?

i have a question, can you take more pictures?:huh: