Oh NO! What have I done! My new KZ1300

Well it's getting to be that time again boys and girls.... Winter is on its way out!

I picked up a new exhaust for the 1300 project. This is the "cheap" aftermarket alternative for these bikes from DG exhaust. I was quite surprised when I went to install it how well it fit together. It fits very well, and looks awesome! I should mention that all of the header tubes are separate pieces, they are pressed into the collector one at a time as you bolt them on. Here is what it looks like all together.










From what I have read most 6 into 1 exhausts for the 1300's actually lose a HP or two from the stock system, but the saving in weight is massive, I am also leaving the center stand off and I think between the two I'm shaving 30 pounds or so off of the bike. I want to finish the front of the engine and get the thermostat and radiator back on, I have to check out the cooling fan too. Then on to shimming the valves.... fun stuff!

:woohoo: cant wait to see this thing finished

Got around to rebuilding the rear master cylinder. Only parts available are the piston seals from the UK. This one was full of crusty stuff inside but it cleaned up well.

Installed the rear brake assembly, got the wiring all sorted out and put the lower air box parts in. I have to make a plate to cover the top of the air box where the tool tray would normally be. I'm going to install the new ignition coils in the space under the seat.



Set up my carbs too, dropped the mains down one size to 105's, pilots up to 45's and lifted the needles one clip. Everything I have read indicated the 1300's run fat from the factory. When I whent through these carbs years back I put adjustable needles in them. The floats on the these can saturate over time and stop floating. These seemed to be OK but a member on kz1300 forum makes very nice brass replacements so I got a set and installed them.






Also finally got my cams installed. The factory timing chain tensioner is notorious for failure. I went with a modern ZRX tensioner instead of the manual option. Most people who do this shorten the spring by 10mm to avoid wearing the plastic gear on the tensioner arm so that's what I did. It's a pretty slick set-up.




Measured my valve clearances and was surprised that I only needed a few shims to make work out. I was nervous because it can be a total crap shoot after a full head rebuild. Getting close now, wont be long and this beast will growl again!

you've done a very nice job on his old beast tyler.

leon

Thanks, its been a long project. I can't wait to start it! The sound will be music to my ears.

I also go the radiator and coolant reservoir installed. The fan works, I had to repair the wiring, someone had put a manual switch in mucked it up. You would think the radiator would be a simple job... oh no not on this thing. It is a royal pain in the ass to get the hose clamps lined up just right. It took a few tries. You can tell Kawasaki hadn't put water cooling on a production bike yet, The engineers laid out the frame like their air cooled motors, realized they forgot about the radiator and coolant reservoir, and then said " Eh we will figure out how to shoe horn the rest of the parts in later... no worries."

Cut a simple plate to replace the missing air box cover/tool tray. I'm going to mount the ignition coils here. There is plenty of room under the seat.



Installed the Carburetors too. With all of the body work off you can appreciate just how well these bikes are put together... complicated and sometimes difficult to service, but well done. In contrast to these rather simple 2 barrel carbs, the 6 carbs that adorned a CBX were staggered in a wedge shape to make them narrower. This further complicated them, not to mention you have to drop the engine down to get them on and off. From above you can see just how narrow the 1300's carbs are, yet they can still breathe well.







Getting close now, I can't wait to wake this monster from its slumber :evil:

Got the ignition coils sorted out. It is possible to mount these in the stock location above the valve cover under the frame, Moving them back under the seat keeps it clean above the engine, and makes trouble shooting that much easier down the road. They will also run cooler away from the engine. Just have to put some paint on the new plate and wire them up.

This is a great read. I recent started putting a 1980 1300 back together and I find it helpful to see your pictures for reference and to read what your doing for inspiration. Thanks so much for the details.

Thanks Melvis, good luck with your project.

If finished the ignition, turned out very nice...



Got her all ready to start up...

I have awoken a sleeping dragon and filled him with great resolve...



In projects like this there is always that one little problem that rears its head, and I've got to that point. Unfortunately I have coolant leak under the thermostat housing, I'll have to pull the radiator off and have a look.
Have some carb adjusting to do as well.

i bet that feels good!