this 750E is in pieces so here are the dimesnions i got
sleeve 226mm
gap when in the frame is 5.7mm internal distance is 261.7mm

diablo, wish the problem was the bearings! those are easy to find, it's the sleeve that goes bad and it doesnt exist anymore as a spare

In case you need them, Kz750 has 4 HK2216 needle bearings (22-28-16).

martin_csr wrote: Are you planning on swapping forks or the entire front end?

KLR650 fork tubes are probably bigger in diameter than the KZ440 & you'll need to check if there are steering bearings that will mate the KLR triple to the frame. see All-balls-racing fork conversion page & the ohio cafe racers fork tube conversion chart.

Martin

My initial plan will be to swap the entire fork with KLR triple clamps and a stem swap (or custom stem if that is required), but if that screws up the trail too much I will have to machine custom triple clamps. I believe the KLR stem is much longer than the stock KZ440 stem. The 2008-2017 KLR tubes are 41mm. I don't have a KLR front end yet so a lot of this is up in the air. The other set of forks I'm considering are Suzuki DZR400 forks, but the motard upside down version... Either way, I'm figure I'll either need a custom stem or custom triple clamps. If I get lucky and the KZ440 stem will press into the KLR triple and the trail is fine, then that would be awesome, but I'm not counting on it.

I'm also looking into a monoshock swingarm conversion for the rear, but I'm wanting to stick with a rear drum brake, I have a spare KZ650 rear drum hub. The hub will take either the belt drive or a chain sprocket so I can swap to a chain if I need to. This is all TBD right now... I'm in the research and planning stage of this build. The stock 440 frame just screams Scrambler/Adventure bike without needing too much fabrication, so that's the direction I want to go.

The engine will get a single carb conversion, C5 Ignition, and custom long tube 2-into-1 exhaust to maximize the torque.

Oldschoolkz1000 wrote: The 80 was given to me because my friend passed away and the family wanted me to have the bike. He was like my brother from an other mother. I want to honor his memory and put the bike back on the road. It sat untouched for 11 years before the family contacted me. Anyway can I use the swing arm and tank from the 80 at least to give it the look.

The '82 looks to be in nice original condition. Right now you have two complete bikes. Once you start swapping parts and chopping things up you'll have one franken-bike and a mound of parts, or two mounds of parts if you never finish. All the value will be gone from the '82, and the spirit of your friend's bike will be somewhere in the pile of parts.

There is enough value in the '82 LTD that if you sold it that should cover the cost of restoring the '80. No reason to throw it away.

I say keep your friends bike as intact as possible. Just take enough of the race out to make it safe and reliable and turn it into a cool cruiser. It won't ever corner great with that swingarm, but you already signed up for that since you plan to keep it in either case.

The biggest thing is to make the engine reliable for the street. I say Ebay a stock cylinder block with a good set of stock pistons and add new gaskets and rings. You should be able to keep every other part of the engine. If the head has a lot of work it may not be ideal, but close enough. This would be maybe $300 to $500?

Or get a stock cylinder block and a new 1075cc, 10.x:1 set of pistons (Wiseco, MTC). Now you have a better than stock engine that's happy on the street. Maybe $1000?

Then figure out where all of your fork travel went and put it back, and get longer struts or real shocks to get more ground clearance. Hagon shocks are about $250 and people say good things about them.

That race pipe is going to drag and it needs a baffle. Maybe get a Delkevic, or Ebay a cheap used pipe and swap with the V&H pipe on the '82. Maybe $100 to $300?

Then disable the nitrous, clean it up, and ride. It looks like all of the rest of pieces are there.

Of course, I can't see if it has a charging system. That could be complicated.

Is that an old calfab extended gs1100 swingarm? or a new one made by motogpworks? also what hub is that?

i just got back from dropping my swing arm parts off at my machinist. heres the plan .

-the right side of the swing has a larger ID then the left so he will be adding a sleeve and boring it so the pivot tube has the same ID as he left

- we are going to run two needle bearings ( p/n 92046-1111) on both sides of the tube like the KZ does

-then we will install seals (p/n92049-1181 ) on both left and right side of pivot tube

- machine work will include a new sleeve and two new top hat spacers
-sleeve will have the OD of the ZRX sleeve (p/n 42036-1259) and ID of the KZ pivot bolt (p/n33032-050)
- the sleeve and the top hats will be stepped slightly so they interlock to avoid any up and down shearing movement that could potentially cause bearing damage.


thats all for now, i will certainly include photos once my parts return

Made a oil catch in the front of the Swingarm. Welded 2 bungs on top 1 goes to low profile breather cover ,other goes to crankcase breather filter, and one on bottom for drain port.

thanks guys. i currently don't have photos for the factory tube or bearings. i have the sleeve at work with the pivot bolt for measurements. im not disabling the bike just yet until i get most these part squared away plus i want to ride the DGR. I just ordered another kz pivot bolt to give to the machinist, and also ordered another OEM ZRX needle bearing (92046-1111) which will replace the ball bearing inside the right side of the ZRX tube.
i will have a sleeve that runs the full length of the pivot tube with the OD of the OEM ZRX sleeve and the ID to except kz pivot bolt. i will most likely have top hat style bushing turned as well to run on the left side of the tube just like the ZRX runs inside the grease seal.. i will let you guys know when progress is made

e

do you have a picture of the tube/factory bearings?