Search Results (Searched for: gs swing arm)
Replied by Nerdy on topic Down to the Nitty Gritty
26 Oct 2017 19:48
Nice job on the diagram, Ed - that is mostly what I was picturing. The yellow line on the left was a surprise, though: I didn't realize that frame rail was at such an angle.
I think the misaligned shocks will put a slight twisting load on the swingarm bushings as the bike goes over bumps. It might not actually bind until the shocks are close to bottoming (if it binds at all) but it's still not a good idea.
Hope the OP sees the diagram before getting the bike on the road.
I think the misaligned shocks will put a slight twisting load on the swingarm bushings as the bike goes over bumps. It might not actually bind until the shocks are close to bottoming (if it binds at all) but it's still not a good idea.
Hope the OP sees the diagram before getting the bike on the road.
Replied by Nessism on topic Down to the Nitty Gritty
25 Oct 2017 11:03
Agree that battery should not be mounted to the swingarm. That increases unsprung mass among other things.

Best way I found to get the swing arm bearings out is make up a nice long tool that comes in from the opposite side of swing arm and catches on the lip of the bearing. Then with a good size hammer knock them out. The tool that I had made does not normally leave a groove when removing the old bearings. If you have any type of grooves or gouges inside the swing arm, you will have a real hard time getting the new bearings in place. The bottom tool in photo is the tool I use to remove the old bearings. If you do have any type of grooves or gouges, I would sand the inside of swing arm to it is smooth again.
The other tool is what I use to install the new swing arm bearings. Notice this tool distributes the force of pressing the bearing in place on the whole 360 degrees of the bearing edge. I insert this tool through the swing arm with a new bearing, and place a new bearing on the other end of tool to make sure the new bearing is centered as I install it. I have never damaged a new bearing when I used this tool to install my swing arm bearings. After you install the new bearings make sure the inner needle bearing spins freely inside its outer cage. If not, you have to start over with new bearings!!!!
The other tool is what I use to install the new swing arm bearings. Notice this tool distributes the force of pressing the bearing in place on the whole 360 degrees of the bearing edge. I insert this tool through the swing arm with a new bearing, and place a new bearing on the other end of tool to make sure the new bearing is centered as I install it. I have never damaged a new bearing when I used this tool to install my swing arm bearings. After you install the new bearings make sure the inner needle bearing spins freely inside its outer cage. If not, you have to start over with new bearings!!!!
Replied by Scirocco on topic Take out bearings.
23 Oct 2017 17:47
To your understanding for the recommended tools, (bearing puller)
www.cmsnl.com/kawasaki-kz650e1-ltd-1980-...t/57284.html#results
www.cmsnl.com/kawasaki-kz650e1-ltd-1980-...t/57284.html#results
but how was you able to insert these tool? I mean the bearings is on both sides, you was not "draging"/hammer" it out by forceing the bearing through whole swingarm? Please see attached picture (hope you understand) so I understand you correct.
You need to get the tool beyond the bearing, but how ?
Sorry for not understand.
One question more, on partzilla it`s indicated two bearings one on each side, but as fair I can see are there 4 on my swing arm 2 on each side?
You need to get the tool beyond the bearing, but how ?
Sorry for not understand.
One question more, on partzilla it`s indicated two bearings one on each side, but as fair I can see are there 4 on my swing arm 2 on each side?
Replied by Daftrusty on topic Take out bearings.
22 Oct 2017 18:41
Take out bearings. was created by gordone
22 Oct 2017 07:11
I need some inputs how to take out the 4 bearings inside the swing arm, please see attached photos.
First I tried to use a flat screwdriver and take it through and hit the screwdriver with a hammer.. I got out the roller of the bearings, but not the "frame" of the bearings... and then I tried to use a screwdriver to collapse it without any success, I also tried to saw it, but was to hard.
SO before I damage something will I got some advise from you people first
Please see attached photos.
First I tried to use a flat screwdriver and take it through and hit the screwdriver with a hammer.. I got out the roller of the bearings, but not the "frame" of the bearings... and then I tried to use a screwdriver to collapse it without any success, I also tried to saw it, but was to hard.
SO before I damage something will I got some advise from you people first

Please see attached photos.
Replied by Oldschoolkz1000 on topic Tribute Bike
18 Oct 2017 15:22
Not changing things, take apart to clean up and put back together. Sent out the struts, I want to Black Chrome the frame and swing arm. Hoses, cables, are all shot and need to be replaced.

That's a nice gesture to do for an old past friend! Early style drag bikes are very simple. Plenty of parts are floating around regular on eBay. I know 3 guys in Ohio, A guy in Topeka, KS. As your finding out all these old bikes were mis-matched hybrids of parts The engine with the "E" says Mark II case. I always buy shaft drive 1000's for the cases when I can. I have a few saved. But with a 16 tooth bottom pin in center of crank, crank is welded! with a 124 tooth cam chain, then 32 tooth cam sprockets. You got to be careful when putting these old engines together with different parts. When this is all apart show us the engine pics! BUT I would not think the CC's are that big 1428?? that is a lot of modifying! Lots of oil leaks with those big cylinder liners and bored out cases But good bones. Nice wheels that will polish up like new! Nice swing arm.
Please! RAKE the frame neck! (I'll post a pic of mine!!! jpg[/attachment] ]100_1563.JPG[/attachment] ) It needs to for the classic drag bike look!
And change the Z1R Tank to smaller LTD tank, (But if it was your friend who wanted that tank?) then keep it!!!
Then, I would down size to a 1075cc .410 lift cams that use shim on top like stock oem's. More rideable on the street if you plan that? Or will you drag race it only?
Spend some time and give us a story and your ideas.
I gave up on this stuff, life is too busy and I'm old and broken & worn out!. I sold off most my good parts. But have a couple things sitting for too many years! Yea! I know! read and heard all about those wasted project bikes. Plus I hang with some Nostalgia A/A Gasser Guys that go up the around the east coast.
But nice choice! Build that Old KZ like a Pro-Stock bike from the late 70's. There are plenty of fabricators on this site that build items now. A lot of guys here on this site that know a lot of other guys all over the country. But Dragbike style is not on top of list on this forum.
Please! RAKE the frame neck! (I'll post a pic of mine!!! jpg[/attachment] ]100_1563.JPG[/attachment] ) It needs to for the classic drag bike look!
And change the Z1R Tank to smaller LTD tank, (But if it was your friend who wanted that tank?) then keep it!!!
Then, I would down size to a 1075cc .410 lift cams that use shim on top like stock oem's. More rideable on the street if you plan that? Or will you drag race it only?
Spend some time and give us a story and your ideas.
I gave up on this stuff, life is too busy and I'm old and broken & worn out!. I sold off most my good parts. But have a couple things sitting for too many years! Yea! I know! read and heard all about those wasted project bikes. Plus I hang with some Nostalgia A/A Gasser Guys that go up the around the east coast.
But nice choice! Build that Old KZ like a Pro-Stock bike from the late 70's. There are plenty of fabricators on this site that build items now. A lot of guys here on this site that know a lot of other guys all over the country. But Dragbike style is not on top of list on this forum.
Replied by Street Fighter LTD on topic Bike of the Month.
14 Oct 2017 15:06
More bike info
Handlebars and grips are from Airtech. They are Clubmans installed up side down to raise them up just enough.
Frame is braced by Chuck from Logghe Chassis. Chuck built many Kaws and raced them . He was very well known and respected for building race car chassis for big names . Google Chuck and see. The frame has a few braces you wont see any where else due to his direct feedback race experience. Steering neck has tapered roller bearings from All Balls and I run twin steering dampeners from Kawasaki. Rear fender is moved back 2 inches with a hand made aluminum bracket in preparation for a new swingarm which is planned
All body work is original
Dave
Handlebars and grips are from Airtech. They are Clubmans installed up side down to raise them up just enough.
Frame is braced by Chuck from Logghe Chassis. Chuck built many Kaws and raced them . He was very well known and respected for building race car chassis for big names . Google Chuck and see. The frame has a few braces you wont see any where else due to his direct feedback race experience. Steering neck has tapered roller bearings from All Balls and I run twin steering dampeners from Kawasaki. Rear fender is moved back 2 inches with a hand made aluminum bracket in preparation for a new swingarm which is planned
All body work is original
Dave



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