cherny_grrrl wrote:

...Y'all think it's the bushing as well? Would the bearings be the same and/or cause me more to have to replace? Thanx much!

Hi!
The other guys gave great advice, but I just wanted to clarify one thing I read in your post: Some bikes came with bushings, some have bearings.

And, though it may be possible to replace bushings with bearings in some cases, the internal components of the swing arm swivel will be different.

For instance, my '78 750 was the first year of the 750 twins to have bearings instead of bushings. It requires a swivel shaft that goes *inside* the bearings, and the swivel bolt goes inside the shaft.

By the way, replacing bearings can be a bit of a bear (I just did it recently), but should give good longevity when maintained. Replacing bushings seems (I've never done it) alot easier. Just keep PLENTY of grease in there! I hope your swingarm pivot has a grease nipple. If so remember to fill it with grease 'till it oozes out the sides.

About your 1/2" of play... is it just the wheel that does that or does the swing arm move with it? I shudder to think that the wheel bearings would move that much!!

Good luck...

Whenever you need parts it a good idea to check with Jeff at Z1 Enterprises , he is a member here and it's tough to beat his prices and service.

For instance, Swingarm bushings are $31.82 a pair (out of stock at the moment though). It's well worth giving him a call.

Wireman puts out a good idea: I went with a used swingarm and it has done me well for a year now. And it was relatively plug and play.

For the other bearings on my motorcycle, I have pulled them, did a measurement check on them with a pair of digital calipers, and searched online and at local stores for them. The measurements read: outside of the bearing, inside of the bearing, and the width of the bearing. I never did figure out if there are different "grades" or weight bering capacities, maybe someone else knows.

Good luck, you and your husband are on the right track.

im not sure about 650s but kz1000s had double needle bearings in 78.if you are sure its the bearings it might be cheaper just to find another swingarm im sure theres plenty of good 650 swingarms on here to be had.

I have a '78 KZ650. Lately I have noticed a weird pull to the right of the back wheel. It has been progressivly getting worse. It happens during shifting and braking. My husband and I took a look at it and he is telling me that it's probably the swing arm bushing. The rear tire has over a 1/2" of play side to side when up on the center stand. When I checked at the local Kaw dealer, I was told that each bushing was 46.99. I was also told that there were after market bearings that were 9.99, but the parts guy couldn't tell me if they were basically the same thing or not, or even if it would work on my bike. I have had the bike for over 5 years but I'm still pretty green as to alot of the mechanical workings and I know the bike had seen a few ditches and such up close and personal before I got it, so I'm kinda worried about what I may be getting into. I am soon to be tearing the rear end off to get a better idea and will follow up, but any additional info is greatly appreciated. Y'all think it's the bushing as well? Would the bearings be the same and/or cause me more to have to replace? Thanx much!

Welcome. 650s are a great bike. Have had mine for 22 years and love it.
let us know what you find yourself, and how it all comes together.
Suzuki GS1000/1100 swingarms seem the most popular swap.

I'm new, obviously, and chances are you guys are stuck with me.

I have always kind of been stand offish about bikes, but being into motorsports in general all my life (asphalt/tarmac stuff mostly and offroad only in the rally sort) I eventually can't help but bring myself to this. Living in california with enough crappy drivers anywhere in the state makes owning a bike a major risk, but after my fiances dad, her brother, and a number of other people got bikes I find myself wanting a little open air excitement. That said I'm the type of guy that can't leave well enough alone, and if it isn't broke it's not good enough.

There are two main things bringing me here. The first being heritage. My uncle road either a 77 or a 78 (have to call and make sure) kz650 back then (then being when they were new) and knowing my uncles inability to settle for anything less than the best, I'm of the oppinion that it really was the end all to be all of bikes at the time. This of course leaves me at a bit of a disadvantage. Starting off with a bike that has a fairly decent power to weight ratio, but not exactly modern in the sense of tire sizes concerns me a bit, but I suppose that's nothing a throttle lock for my first 6 months or so couldn't fix.

Secondly, my fiance's brother went and found a 73 Honda CB750. What a tank of a bike that is. Built like a Panzer tank, sturdy, slow, and technology from the 30s. I was going to have my own hands on fun with this bike until he showed up with what's basically a simpathetic restoration project some guy had worked on for several years, so I can't bring myself to force the kid to mess with it.

Ok, more about what I want to do. As I said, my uncle had a 650, so in turn I'm going that route. But being completely uncomfortable with carbueration systems and other seemingly old tech, I have plans to adapt an opensouced EFI setup I've previously used on my 300whp DD 85 Volvo station wagon. The thought of boost seems somewhat alluring, but building a motor with a little more compression than stock also seems like a viable (and most likely much safer) option.

I've been digging around on the forums and found some interesting information on the bike itself, and plan to use some of it, and I will likely end up messing around and coming up with something else in the process. It's going to be a long term process, more wrenching involved than riding for a long time, but the sooner I get my head in the more time I get to develope a good game plan.

Ultimately in about 2 years I plan to trailer the bike to Alabama (from california) to a Volvo event held there every summer, just so I can have a little fun with some of my friends. Raw speed is something I'm aiming at, but I'm more concerned with trackability. Custom swingarms anyone?

cableman30 wrote:

i have a 1978 kz1000, the guy i bought it from rebuilt it from ground up, now my problem is the rear disc is getting hot after a ride, there is no dragging, i lift the bike up and the wheel rolls free, it gets hot to the touch after a 5 mile ride, i rebuilt the caliper, didnt change out the pads cause they looked ok. i dont know if it matters but my wheels and calipers came off of a kz650, but i have a buddy that has a kz1000 like mine and the rear brake set up is exactley the same, im confused and scared im going to do damage to the bike, the wheel is also straight,my wheel also has no play in it(side to side), now that im typing this, im thinking could i have some play in the swingarm? and could this cause this, thanks everyone, and are any of my fellow kz riders in wa sate?

Thanks,play in swingarm pivot shouldnt affect brake rotor.is it getting hotter than front rotor?you are going to pick up a little heat from the wheel bearings which could be radiating out from hub through rotor,if you are sure the brakes arent dragging and the brake fluid looks clean i wouldnt worry too much as long as the brake works.
Ben

Mine was lowered by drilling new holes in the calfab swing arm and moving the rear shock mount back.

The front fork srings were cut (internally)

Pic

kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_ponygal...&func=detail&id=1429

wiredgeorge wrote:

The main problems would be that the shafty swingarm doesn't have an "axle" running through it like on the cop bike. There are two small shafts on each side that pivot on needle bearings. In order to use the swingarm off a shafty you would have to weld and drill the frame on the cop bike and I think this wold be pretty much precision work as these pivot mechanisms are pretty complex work. The shafty swingarm integrates a tube for the drive shaft and bolts to the rear drive unit. You would have to use an ST engine that mounts differently than an 82-05 cop bike engine and would require some serious welding on the cop bike frame to get the motor mounts located.....

...you'll also need to shim the driveshaft properly so you don't end up with vibration issues and possibly engine/final drive damage.