The GS swing arm uses the same 20mm rear axle. The same 16mm size as KZ-Z1 pivot point, frame bolt.
You need to make 2 shims, about .180" each to fit in between the frame on a Z1-KZ.
Here is a picture of one I did a few years ago.
You might have to make a spacer or 2 for the back.
But should be easy if you have the parts from the stock Suzuki.
Good luck! The 2 spacers 16mm / 5/8" washer / spacer about 3/16" / .180" thick

z1kzonly I am trying to track down a swing arm from a GS1100 for my 77 Z1000. I have found one but it is bare- no axle.

Can you tell me exactly what I need for this conversion? Arm, axle, chain adjusters- what else?

Asking because the arm is bare and the owner will try and find the other parts that will be needed if I can let him know.
Thanks

Hi All, a couple of months ago, I picked up a totally used up 1984 GPZ1100 from Craigslist for a song.

Question for everyone. This bike has a chrome grab rail and chrome foot peg brackets and black wheels. Looking through the hundreds of images online, I have only seen one other with the chrome parts, all others are black. Some have black wheels instead of the red. Does anyone know of any significance to the chrome parts?
Before pic.


It is nearly finished with a full frame up refurbishment. Will be posting finished pics in a couple of weeks.

So far, rebuilt engine (gaskets, valve grind with seals, replaced oil lines, rebuilt brakes front and rear, new tires, battery, cleaned injectors, chain/sprockets, turn signals , cables, levers, grips, throttle tube, gas tank, fuel sender unit, swing arm (pinch bolt collar cracked), fork rebuild, anti-dive rebuild and a bunch of smaller stuff. Currently painted with about 1/2 of the decals on, need to finish decals, clear coat and repair seat foam and replace the seat cover and start riding.

I just bought a 1979 KZ 1000 LTD the following list are the mods that the seller told me the bike had.
De-tuned drag race motor-closer to stock clearance for dependability.Race motors have open clearances for the least mechanical resistance to be able to compete. Rebuilt every few run’s
* Motor dyno’s @ 170 h.p. Stock motor was 85 h.p.Stock LTD’s turned consistent 12.5’s with stock carbs (26 mm).I figure this bike to turn mid to high 9’s with right rider and tune.These bikes weighted 525 lbs.stock.
* Motor - 1398 cc. MTC Big Block kit built by CW cycles-some of the best in the country.Rev limited @ 13,500 rpm.
* Crane electronic ignition - performanced.
* 10.5 to 1 compression.There race motors were 13.5 to 1 and rated @ 240 hp.
* Oversized Manley Stainless Steel valves- high performance springs-Titanium retainers.
* Head work by Jeff Reel (one of the top guys in the country at the time.)
* Performance Cam,Chain and gears-MTC used the highest quality pistons/pins and bearings in there kits for compatition.
* Weled Cranckshaft/Pins
* 29 mm Mikuni Smooth bore carborator’s (bored out) K&N Filters pods.
* Kerker Headers,Rosch rear-sets, Yoshimura suspension, Michelin Pilot tires.
* Aluminum Box Swing arm with needle bearings-2” longer than stock.
* Transmission built by CW cycles,undercut gears heavy duty bearings.APE clutch plates and springs.
* Tapered Bearings in the steering head/ 630 o-ring chain
* Carbs are just rebuilt by Rick West from Oldschoolcarbs, I’m told he is the best in the country
The bike is running rick it is a rocket on timid to top revs but it does not clear really up to 4500 RPM, bellow that the bike engine is not feeling stable if it is the right word for it. it gives me the feeling that i had when the points were not right on an old gs.
I am putting new sparks but I guess I have to start by opening the carbs to check what jets have installed.

I did not brace the frame or modify the swing arm. I would say if the frame is in good shape you're safe. I have stood on the front brakes as hard as I would like with no problem and just this weekend hit a SIZABLE hole with no problem. I remember the thread you mentioned but I would personally say that it's overkill unless you're planning on track days or anything substantially harder than riding around town. Then again I'm not an engineer so what do I know.

As for the difference. I definitely notice a difference in stiffness under braking/hard cornering but not in a bad way. I might recommend going with a longer fork than the GSXR setup i have if you're staying with the stock rear suspension height to stay closer to stock rake and trail numbers but all in-all i'm happy with the outcome.

Using the cst/Berger 5 beam laser worked well I believe. It's accuracy is dependent solely on the care taking to set up the frame level especially with regards to the area of the neck and the swingarm pivot. The unit self levels making setup a breeze. Placing the unit midway between where the swingarm mounts will suffice to level that area. A bubble level under the main backbone and atop the two lower tubes assured level there. I even set the rake at 27 degrees for the heck of it. A plumb Bob dangling from the neck and bingo, the laser hits the stringline.

Next up is to attach the front end sans wheel and same with the swingarm and recheck.

When buying an old bike with a past uncertain this strikes me as a simple way to assure a solid foundation under your build.

In fact, I bought this level to supplement my rotating laser for my construction business. It did things the other one didn't and with its first use i decided to put in the foundation myself for a 24' x 36' garage with living space above. After stripping the forms my lead carpenter quipped that the foundation was within 1/8 of square and he couldn't believe it.

I just replied, that's okay, next time we'll do better.

This is a great great tool.

I get off on the relativity of it all. A laser is no different than a string line.
I'm like a kid playing with toys still.

I took some pics of the setup but they are on my phone. Later I'll post them.

Sorry for some reason I thought I put that in there. It’s a 76 kz900, everything is factory minus the motor, it’s had some work done to it. I’m going with a D&G chassis 8in over swing arm. I found a good deal on some 2001 gsxr wheels, I haven’t bought yet just because I don’t know if they will work. I know I’m going to have to play with offsets and a little of  fabrication and I’m ok with that. 

I picked up another GS 1100 aluminum swingarm. Now if anyone has ever tried to strip the silver anodize, that's a bitch! Now this one was painted black with real car auto paint! Plus it had primer under that. Double bitch. Just been sanding it and cleaning all the casting marks and welds.
Then I can blast it clean. Freakin OINK the pigster has sold them,
They clean up nice! 

After everything was mocked up, we stripped it down and cleaned it up.
The frame was sent out for powdercoat. We rebuilt the head and added a Wiseco KZ700 piston kit.
The seat foam was wrapped and stitched by a local leather worker



All new swingarm bushings and tapered roller bearings in the neck

The axle fits in the swingarm and is fixed in place by the axle nut.  There should be a spacer and maybe two on the axle.  It sounds to me like something is missing.

The axle bearings carry no lateral load.  Their sole purpose is to allow wheel rotation around the axle, which is fixed in place.  Put your bike on the center stand with the rear wheel off the ground.  Grasp the wheel and try to lift it upwards.  If you can move the wheel relative to the axle then your bearings are worn.  But if there is no movement then your bearings are fine.