I would add to the list, bad shocks.

Did the po modify the frame at all? If he removed the rear of the sub frame under the seat and did not install a solid brace between the two sides, you may be getting some excessive frame flex at the rear.

Assuming i did not see something obvious like a broken frame weld or missing shock, my list would look like this--

Air pressure in the tires
Tire age and condition - both of them
Steering bearing condition, lubrication and torque
Forks - alignment, straightness, fluid condition and level, seals and bushings
Shocks - blown, leaky seals. If they are original, throw them away.
Swingarm bearings or bushings - wear and lubrication
Wheel and frame alignment.
Check motor mount bolts. Are they all present and properly torqued?
Since it has been cafed, check the frame for dodgy modifications

I would check the swing arm pivot bearings. I think the c2 should have roller bearings as opposed to bronze bushings? Anyway, play in the swing arm pivot could certainly make it squirrelly.

From the pic I can't tell what collar that is. It looks kind of like a wheel bearing. weird. I would check out the diagrams at Partzilla to see the proper order & make certain everything is there. The outer races of the bearings spin with the wheel, while the inner races & spacers/collars get locked in place by the axle. So the spacers should fit against the inner races. There are usually 4 spacers/collars: a long one w centering flange between the hub bearings. a fat one between the LH hub & sprocket carrier. and one on each side that fit against the swing arm. Each spacer is kind of distinctive, so it's kind of hard to mess up the order.

Here some very helpful conversion guides for the Front End and Swing Arm.

Regarding the bearings... I do seem to recall there being three sets of bearing in the kit for the rear wheel, so hopefully that means the sprocket bearing was replaced as well? I didn't do the actual replacement myself, I just gave the wheels and the new bearings to the shop at the dealer and they swapped it all out for me. I DID do the swing-arm bearings myself. Twice. Had to knock one back out again because I got it all together and realized I forgot to put the spacer tube in between the bearings. I don't have a center stand on the bike but I'll try to find a way to lift up the rear wheel so I can check to make sure there's no sideways play in the swingarm.

Thanks for the gearing suggestions. It might be a couple weeks before I have a chance to pull the cover and count teeth on the front sprocket. I'm not too concerned about losing power on the take-off, it's not like I'm racing. I just want to bring down the RPMs when I'm out of the highway. And it may be that the other set of sprockets I have are the correct ones for highway riding -- if so I'll just swap them out and see what difference it makes, then have that information on hand for when I'm ready to order the new set of sprockets and chain.

I don't know what kind of price a 'good' chain goes for, but I paid just under $100 for this one so I was expecting it to be of good quality. Definitely not an ebay special, this one was straight from the dealer (which could also explain the price tag).

Regarding adjusting the wheel by half a mark to tighten the chain... Yeah I obviously expected to have to move it more than that. I think the chain was slapping the frame every time I hit a bump although there are no scuffs in the paint. But seeing that much slack in it, my first thought was to check the rear wheel since I figured it had shifted. I had the cover off the front sprocket recently when I replaced the clutch cable and didn't notice any wear on that sprocket at the time, but I'll check more carefully when I count the teeth.

Thanks for the sprocket ratio suggestions, it gives me some idea of where to shoot. I have this feeling the sprockets I used were from the J, and the ones from the LTD probably would be more correct for the highway. Not much riding weather left this year but there's still time for some experimentation before I put it away for the Winter.

An o-ring chain is pretty easy to identify. There is an obvious gap between the outside plates on the links. The o-rings are meant to hold the lubricant grease inside the pin and bushing surfaces.



I just replaced my sprockets with the same 15 / 39 that were on it. While gearing it up a bit, lowering the final gear ratio will also effect low speed operation / torque Just like everything you change, has effects on other things.

Moving the adjustment 1/2 of a mark is a lot. My chain tightens in only a 1/4 -1/2 turn on the adjustment bolt, not the adjustment marks themselves. Hopefully you took a look at the sprocket and swing arm bearings for wear / slop. (Sorry, I did not take any pics of the numerous times I had it apart)I am thinking as much as this chain needs adjustment, there is definitely something wrong. I can't even imagine a really cheap chain stretching this fast., unless it goes on a combine.. and even then..

Wheel bearings are not the same as sprocket bearings. There is a separate bearing on the sprocket assembly with a rubber damper between the sprocket and the wheel. I tried googling it so I could illustrate the bearing, but was mainly seeing a lot of video's with very little illustration value, and a whole lotta obnoxious thumping, overbearing music.. kinda like going to a car wash or gas station in St. Louis city.

I'm in the UK so generally dont get the Harley VS Jap issues so much!

The bikes in bits atm, Im waiting for the swingarm bearing to be removed by a local machine shop (they did not want to move) when its back if I have to Ill do the wire and guesstimate method.

The part numbers dont have the measurements and fittings they might be the same. I can get custom made up, that what I was doing when they went walkabout.

The tracking number says it was delivered, the company say they have no record and were not interested in talking to me when I phoned, and wont be getting any work from me again

High Speed wooble is the master Problem of the old steering neck bearings, don´t ask how do i know it....
Poor rear swing arm bearings and old stock rear damper effect the same issiue.

Thanks. I did find a couple of your old posts after asking. The brake torque arm is the std Suzuki arm I assume?

Old pictures, I double clicked when loading?
Plus you need the Suzuki style shocks with the outer style clevis that mount to bottom of swingarm.