Rear wheel. The KZ1000P also has an 18" rear wheel, but it's wider than the 750E. The 1000 probably uses a bigger axle (larger diameter), so the other hub stuff is bigger as well. The wider wheel may not be a problem, since your swing arm already accepts a wide Ltd. I believe the 750H is 3" wide, the 750E is 2.15" & the 1000P is 2.50". I don't know if there will be brake rotor alignment issues with a Police wheel. There may be wheel bearings that will mate a 1000 wheel to the 750 axle. I don't know if a larger axle can be used with the 750 Ltd swing arm.

You can compare stuff at Partzilla. There are other places w parts diagrams, such as Kawasaki.com or cmsnl.com, but partzilla is the easiest to use.


....

I'm all about the mess too! Too small of a garage! ( I know where it all is at!! ) No space or money to build or rent. I'm stuck. Me too, I'm old and worn out!
But this is my sanity. I have ADD - ADH or whatever? I seem to start stuff and never finish! Got 10 projects going?
Whatever? Loud Blues music, bright lights and a 100,000 BTU oil furnace in a small garage. Plenty warm in the cold!
I'm smelling lacquer fumes today stripping a GS1100 aluminum swingarm? (heat only runs 2-3 times) no thinner out when that is on.
2 sets of HD FLH tanks to paint. Cut up a small KZ front fender, shortened it! Unique, will fit Z1-KZ900-1000. I might even use it myself.
Have a real clean KZ900 front set of forks to finish. Just got the AllBall seal & wiper set. Waiting on a friend to surface grind 2 - KZ 4 hole discs to finish.
Beer and opiods help. Hey edible states! NY sucks. I'll send you my address! :woohoo:

I got to ask Mr. Muzzy questions about the S1 for about 40 minutes or so. The factory S1's were a lot different than the S1's that Kawasaki sold to the normal folks. The standard S1 came with cams marked as "47" and "48" He asked what number cams that were in my S1. When I told him #47 and #48. He looked a bit puzzled, and said they were running #52 and #53 numbered cams!!!! He did tell me that he was running the early style KZ1000 outer clutch basket with the needle bearing instead of the bushing style that came in the J model motors. The S1 front forks were plain junk and needed LOTS of work and different parts to make them right. Again, some of the parts were specially supplied by Kawasaki race shop in Japan. Which I could not get or buy.

Everybody ran a pretty wide handlebars on their Superbikes. From the big boys down to the privateers ran like the K&N Superbike bars. Spencer used to bend his bars sometimes during a race!!!! You wanted all the leverage you could get in case your bike went into a high speed wobble. Even when Kawasaki ran the GPz750's in '83, they mounted handlebars to the bikes instead of the clip on style bars the bikes came with.

I used either Yoshimura 1015cc slipper pistons or Moriwaki 1105cc pistons and never had a piston to valve clearance problem unless I missed a few gears!!!! Then I would tag an exhaust valve or two.

The stock S1 only made like 110~115 horsepower out of the box. And that was after you dialed the carbs in. Plus the swing arm pivot bolt had like .060 ths play between the frame and the pivot bolt stock. And like I said, the front forks were a joke, they had like .004~006 clearance between the inner and outer legs. It wobbled like an old H2 triple when I first put it on a race track. I did a roll on from 2nd gear between my home made Superbike and the fancy S1. Even giving the S1 the jump my home made Superbike would run it down by the end of 3rd gear!!!! I was expecting a lot more from the S1 than what I got from it.

Been floating around the boards a bit and figured it’d be fun to share progress on a 1977 kawasaki kz1000.
The story goes somewhat like this...
Dad bought this from an estate sale a few years ago and my brothers and I ended up tearing it apart to rebuild with some of the spares we had laying around the barn.
Engine went out to the builder shortly after and a few minor parts came in the mail in the mean time. Got it to a rolling chassis then it sat and started collecting dust.
3 years later my dad talked me into taking it home. So I broke down what we had and packed it into my hatchback. Started measuring tings up, making parts list and dropping parts off to various places.
I figured I will have it mostly together by this spring but the goal is to have this ready to give back to dear old Dad in June 2020 for his 60th birthday.

Pics so far...


So far I am nearing completion on the front end. Using a 94-96 zx9 forks/wheels/brakes/clip-ones with stock gauges/bracket. Luckily the kz speedo runs off the speedo sensor from the zx9.
Using the stock gas tank, side panels, rear fender with zx9 front fender painted to match. Gas tank needs restored inside though unfortunately but the other panels look great. My dads a big fan of chrome so I polished up the chrome and have been adding chrome nuts and bolts throughout to keep that look.
Well be using the gs1100 swingarm with dual shocks and a modified rear brake system. This will use the stock brake pedal set up with modern rear master and custom pieces to go from master to pedal. Rear caliper will be from zx10 using zx9 rear caliper mount and custom wheel spacers and 520 chain to fit the 180 wide rear tire.
The goal is to have a retro bike with great power, reliability and updated brakes/tires/suspension.

A little bit of thread necromancy, but I've got some relevant updates for running CR29s on the (at least my ) Z1.

I've had the bike on the dyno a few times in the past week, dialing in my AFRs.
After the first run I saw that idle was super lean and then went off the charts rich just after throttle. AFR got better at 3/4 to WOT.

That told me two things, that I needed larger idle jets (what kerker/SUDCO call slow jets) and a larger diameter (leaner) needle.
Run 1 was with 52 slow, 112 main, YY8 needle 3 clips from the top.

Run 2 was with 55 slow, 112 main, YY9 needle 3 clips from the top.

On run 2, the idle was still lean, but not as bad as before.
I'm going to probably jump up to size 60 slow jets (which is what the carbs normally come with when you buy them new). That combined with the air screw adjustments should fix the leanness at idle.
Run 2 with the new needle showed marked improvement in the AFR at 1/4 to 3/4 throttle. We went from an AFR of 9ish/1 to around 11.2/1 (with the end goal of being 13.1fuel/1air).

***The snag is that with the aftermarket rim and larger tire, combined with the box swingarm I have about 1/2" of clearance. At high RPMs, the tire expands enough to rub on the swingarm cross brace (in the video you can see a puff of black)

I'm going to fix the clearance when I upgrade the rear to disc brake and then we'll do Run 3 in the spring.

Run three will probably be the following: 60 slow, 112 main, YY9 needle 2 clips from the top.

Here's the HP chart and AFR chart from the dynojet:
70hp at around 8k RPM... that's with significant rubbing of the rear tire, so hopefully it's a little more after I fix it.



Here's a quick video of one of the intermediary runs (not the spray of rubber near the end of the pull)




Finally, pictures of the rubbing and existing clearance:







Hopefully this information is helpful. I'll update it again in the spring once I get back on the dyno.

The bike is a 1980 Z1r D3 that is undergoing a complete restoration. The frame has been sand blasted and painted and new swingarm bearings installed. I have just completed the installation of tapered roller steering head bearings but have discovered two issues. The first is that the steering stem head nut only needs hand tightening before the steering gets tight. My workshop manual doesn't have a torque setting for this nut but to me it doesn't seem tight enough when the steering stem can be moved easily from side to side without binding. The other issue is that after installation of the top triple clamp, when I measure the distance between both triple clamps and then compare the measurement to that of the fork cover that sits between the top and bottom triple clamp there is about a 6mm difference - ie. the gap between the triple clamps is 6mm longer than the length of the fork cover. I'm not sure if this is correct, but again, it doesn't seem right. It looks as though the top triple clamp is not sitting low enough because the steering stem head nut is not going on far enough.
I have measured the bearings as best I can and they look to be correct (although measuring the thickness of bottom one is a bit hard due to the proximity of the grease seal) . Both top and bottom races were pressed in using threaded rod and appropriate sized washers and are seated correctly. In another post, someone experienced a similar issue on a 1975 Z1 (I think) and they ended up machining a few mil off the steering stem nut to fix it but I don't have that sort of equipment.
Has anyone experienced similar issues and is there a suitable fix? Thanks.

scubaanders wrote: Rusty!
The ZR750 rim is 110 mm across.

/A

Thank you!! I really appreciate you doing that for me. I measured my spare zr550 front wheel and it is 100mm, so I will have 5mm on each side to deal with. So I will need to research brake disks that don’t have so much offset.

I test fit the Bassani exhaust on the bike and the gs1100 rear section wasn’t all that far off. But there is only 2mm between the muffler and my swingarm and I don’t like how straight back it goes. So I had to cut the mid-pipe to space it out from the swingarm and give it some upsweep.
So this is my current mock-up after two days of continuous measuring, thinking, cutting and fitting.

Before:


After:

Removed the bent garbage fork today. Also went a little nuts with the cut off wheel. modified rear fender. removed passenger pegs. Bandit swing arm hits them.

More pics to come this afternoon.

I cut and ground and beat and pulled and I won.

Test mounted my Bandit swingarm. The KZ wheel slides right into place... maybe I can go ahead and build my spoke wheels instead of running gsxr wheels.

I went (crazy on eBay) with 2012 GSXR750 fork and wheels. Cognito moto sent me the stem and top clamp. Traxxion in Woodstock, GA will be rebuilding the fork and installing their top cap extension which should take care of most of the height lose. Later on after I get it dialed in I will order my laced 18s front and rear. Two companies have a hub for the GSXR. Cognito moto and HB moto.
Also got my Bandit swing arm today. bushings will arrive Monday. Ill Tig mt shock mounts on for the ZRX shocks i won last night. Coming from Canada soon.
Installed the Dyna 2000 this evening. I had a found a thread on here explaining the fine details of setting it up, but I can't seem to find it now.
I think my very nice GSXR wheels were stolen from in front of my door. Fedex says they were delivered Thursday, but no box here! waiting to hear from them and HOPING they are simply in my leasing office.
Wired George has my carbs in queue and im exctied to see his work.
I'll have my custom simplified wiring harness built tomorrow. Also have a R/R from Rick's for my little lithium battery.
Plan is to get it together and running. Ride it then this winter take it ALL apart for blasting and paint.
#NoMessingAround.