GS1100 (Chain drive) plops right into a 1000 frame. Not sure about the 900.

As fare as i know the GSX-R 1100 (86-88) GU74 share the same 16 mm OD pivot tube as Z1
All other swing arm (Z1 = OD 16 mm pivot to swing arm 20 ,22 ,25 mm OD pivot ) need a brass sleeve/bushing for the Z1 16 mm pivot.




Some swing arm charts

www.sellifighter.de/technik/masse/masse.htm

The frame bracing and swing arm bracing was commissioned by the previous owner, it's a common thing over here, it tightens the frame up, kits can be bought on the internet, i put the adjustable TEC shocks on, which i have adjusted to around 370mm in length, around an inch higher than stock they are made in the UK and are fully re-buildable and a good price, the front forks are just standard with a grade higher oil in them, just these simple and not expensive things make for a better handling bike, here is a link for the shocks, and cost me at today's exchange rate $180 usd, also some pictures of the frame mods. P.S i am only around 150lb's wet a year ago i was over 220lb's.
www.tecbikepartsusa.com/TEC_Adjustable_R...sak_p/j-sh21a-k3.htm

There are photos around of the AC Sanctuary boys notching frames for chain clearance. Im not skilled enough with a welder for that,so I went the other way.
I went through a few wheels before I settled on a Bandit 600,with a 160 tyre. Then with straightedges I measured the distance between the edge of the tyre and the inside of the frame downtube. This gave me my maximum space to play with. I then subtracted the thickness of the chain which gave me the measurement of clearance I would have either side of the chain. I think I had about 9mm in total. I then was able to shave the rear sprocket carrier down to center the chain line which gave me 4to5mm clearance either side. Turned out to be enough. Offset front sprocket and that was it.
Another thing I thought about ,which might affect you if youve trimmed the swingarm by the pivot, I fitted a GSXR600 swingarm on mine (had shock mounts made up and welded on). It was a very close fit and I only needed a couple of washers to get it snug but as it was such a bulky arm,especially by the pivot,the up and down movement was limited. The sides of the arm would jam in the frame when the arm moved up ( if the shocks were compressed on the road). I had to grind/sand some of the alu off the arm until it moved upwards freely.

So my goal for 2019 is to take my '80 LTD 1000, as shown in the pics, and convert it back to something more "street worthy". Way, way back in the late '90s, I built it up using bits and pieces left over from my drag racing days and it hasn't been ridden on the street ever since (except for the occasional blast around the block:) ). I have to change out the 2"-over swingarm for a stock length and also install a pair of Konis. Also, have to pull the front forks apart and remove the travel limiters. The stock mag wheels are going back on as the rear wheel, a spun aluminum Performance Machine unit, doesn't have a cush-drive hub or sprocket. Also should rebuild both master cylinders and make up new brake hoses.

The motor is good-to-go. The head is mildly ported with stock-size valves. Megacycle 0.380" lift cams w/shim under buckets. Mikuni RS34's. Wiseco 10.25-1 pistons (stock bore). Falicon Supercrank (lightened MkII) with strengthened factory rods. R&D Motorsports undercut trans. The bike has gone a best of 10.97 @ 124 mph, which translates to about 100 hp - not too shabby, I guess.

Hope to have things in order by late spring/early summer. We'll see...

A totally different bike but I shaved a few mm of the sprocket carrier to have the chainline clear the frame and tyre and I used an offset front sprocket to line things up nicely.
I used stock length shocks,though my wheel/tyre size changed. Im not sure about the angle of the shocks,I dont remember calculating anything,I think I just eyeballed it.
One thing to think about with wheel/tyre size is the line between the front sprocket,swingarm pivot bolt and rear sprocket. You dont want too much of a peak at the pivot bolt or you can have the chain scraping across the top of the swingarm (by the pivot bolt).
Another thing to watch out for with a rear end swap, is the chain hitting the inside of the shock.
Hope this helps.

Appreciate "all" the solid input as usual ! I want to retain the spoke wheels, wouldn't mind going to an 18" front wheel ( I have the rim 40-spoke ). I have shorter rear shocks ( 12.5" ) and ran the front fork tubes up the fork clamps by 1". I'm short, so helped with foot placement.

Right now the bike is set-up with Dual brake discs up front ( stock drilled LTD's ) with the stock single piston calipers.

A nicer and light brake caliper set-up would great. So maybe the front end off of a "concourse" would be a nice upgrade which I'm assuming has bigger fork tubes and multi piston brake calipers ?

Also, what about the Suzuki GS1100E swing arm ? Is that a big mod or does it pretty much bolt up to the "stock" KZ chassis ?

Here is mine with 05 gsxr1000 front with cognito front hub and KZ hoop. I haven’t had an issue with ground clearance. Zrx1100 swingarm and a 180 rear tire

Race Tech springs and emulators will completely transform the front suspension. That combined with a fork brace will really have an impact.

Replacing the brake lines with braided lines should return a lot of feeling back to the brake lever.

Hagon shocks are a good budget choice for the rear end. Take a look at the swing arm bushings too, those need periodic servicing and can worn ones can impact handling.

Hi Myke,

Sorry to hear about this trouble. I do not know what brand piston is in there. I know who put the big bore kit in "Mad Jack", he liked Wiseco back then, but there is no guarantee that is what he used, the original owner would have chosen what brand, sometime in the 90's I suspect.

If I were you, I would hone the cylinders and install new pistons and rings. It is not horribly expensive, and you would have piece of mind for many more miles. APE has a good selection of quality stuff for the KZ.

kzzone.com/

The engine were it still in my hands would have been rebuilt eventually, It was the weakest link, although solid enough for the time being. I am surprised a stuck ring did not damage the cylinder wall. The thought I had about the engine was a real big block with mild compression pistons. Avoid going too big or you will over heat the motor. Valve guides should be replaced and the crank inspected for alignment. For about 2K you could have a real punisher of a motor, complemented by the ignition module I installed and the flatslides. You will not be disappointed.

If the tensioner is broken, make sure you find all of it. I broke a cam chain in another bike once, when some debris from a broken part did not get removed, the bike ran along after fixing initial problem for years, then one day it just got caught up in the cam chain and whack ! broken cam chain totally stranded.

kzzone.com/blocks.html

I will shoot you a text so you have my number, but it is still the same as before, even though I am now in Washington.

Ted